What have you done to your P5 today?

i12drivemyMP5

___ 323F ___
Contributor
All you need is the FCC ID of our remote and you can have combo key or flip key or stay with oem setup. I used the board out of our oem remote inside a flip key shell.......
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had a shell drilled for panic button but went without panic because it was too easy to hit so on the one without panic just removed the panic part of the membrane that had that button. Panic shell below......
swblade_02.JPG



.........and for my Scion xB I found a combo key and the board of the combo key fit inside a denso flip key shell so I have all 3 setups for it.

20210329_165415.jpg


....this is gonna make me find a combo key for the car now......thanks, lol


FCC ID for our remotes = KPU41704..........searching...........


O Kayyyy.......initial search = SOL except for oem replacement fob. I'll retract the combo key option for now, but I did make and have a working flip key. Wish there was a combo key like for the xB that had the P5 FCC ID............sux because P5 is 2003 and xB is 2004, figured there would be one for the P5 too.............
 
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:
03 p5, 92 miata
All you need is the FCC ID of our remote and you can have combo key or flip key or stay with oem setup. I used the board out of our oem remote inside a flip key shell.......

Been using a flip key like that since about 2011! Love the flip key vs separate key and fob
 

i12drivemyMP5

___ 323F ___
Contributor
Yeah, have had mine quite awhile too....no keys on it, mostly just novelty use here and there. I wanted to find a combo key for it like I use for the xB. That is my preferred setup. Oh well, xB is the daily driver anyway.


On that note...... According to the inspection station I have used for last 10yrs during my inspection this year, the P5 only has 4000 miles more than it did in 2011.......not zackly living up to my username, lol.....
 
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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
All you need is the FCC ID of our remote and you can have combo key or flip key or stay with oem setup. I used the board out of our oem remote inside a flip key shell.......
View attachment 302517
View attachment 302516
View attachment 302518

had a shell drilled for panic button but went without panic because it was too easy to hit so on the one without panic just removed the panic part of the membrane that had that button. Panic shell below......
View attachment 302519


.........and for my Scion xB I found a combo key and the board of the combo key fit inside a denso flip key shell so I have all 3 setups for it.

View attachment 302515

....this is gonna make me find a combo key for the car now......thanks, lol


FCC ID for our remotes = KPU41704..........searching...........


O Kayyyy.......initial search = SOL except for oem replacement fob. I'll retract the combo key option for now, but I did make and have a working flip key. Wish there was a combo key like for the xB that had the P5 FCC ID............sux because P5 is 2003 and xB is 2004, figured there would be one for the P5 too.............
Whaaaaaaaaat?!?? That's a thing? I want a flip key now! Can I buy one and program it to my car? Sorry maybe you already said that it can be done, but I probably missed it. Need to do this kinda research already for my dad's Tundra, so I might as well learn how it works for my Protege too!
 
:
03 p5, 92 miata
Yeah, have had mine quite awhile too....no keys on it, mostly just novelty use here and there. I wanted to find a combo key for it like I use for the xB. That is my preferred setup. Oh well, xB is the daily driver anyway.


On that note...... According to the inspection station I have used for last 10yrs during my inspection this year, the P5 only has 4000 miles more than it did in 2011.......not zackly living up to my username, lol.....
meanwhile mine is mostly rust and at 262k miles. It isnt the daily anymore. Intown driver only these days.
 
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
I have a "low profile" dipstick just like yours (and kinda like it that way).

Years ago, and oil change place down the street from me broke off my dipstick handle. I found out when I went to check the oil and found that it had been taped back on; came off right in my hand with remnants of engine-baked cellophane tape on it. The shop had cracked my accordion air intake as well on the bottom and the engine was getting unmetered air. I took it back and the manager took responsibility.

Prior to that, an oil change/car wash place in an expensive neighborhood (with fancy cars) left my oil filler cap off. I found that a month later, and the filler cap had been left sitting next to the hood latch. Amazingly, the car had lost no oil, but there was an oil sheen *everywhere* under the hood. The shop detailed my engine and paid to replace the under-hood insulation.

Last year, yet another oil change place didn't install my drain plug properly and I toasted my engine on the highway after the plug flew out. Took three months, but the shop paid for a JDM replacement for it. My buddy walked by the shop the other day and saw a P5 in their bay and he almost ran over to warn the owner. :D I got a coupon from them just a few days ago that said "Under new ownership" on it.

I don't change my own oil here at the apartment out of fear of a mess. I'll start doing it again when I buy a house. For now, I hunt for dealership coupons and don't drive either of my Mazdas all that much. Oh, and I did the free oil change for school/university employees just the other day at the Mazda dealership - no Mazda required. EDIT: That offer is good to the end of September, btw.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
meanwhile mine is mostly rust and at 262k miles. It isnt the daily anymore. Intown driver only these days.
Hey, but that's not a bad place to be actually. It doesn't have to be a reliable daily right? So who cares if it breaks down for a bit or isn't super nice.

Mine is a daily and it's probably in slightly better condition, but it's still old and worn, and I have no second car. I have a small heart attack at every little noise. Been pretty blessed with reliability so far though.

Speaking of old and worn, my EGT insufficient flow CEL came back on. I don't remember the code because I cleared it immediately, but I think it was a p0402 maybe? I'm going to need to start thinking about cleaning the EGT or replacing it with a Canadian market one, according to PCB. I've heard people say it's hard to access? I'm going to take a nice stroll through the factory service manual to find some diagrams.

Years ago, and oil change place down the street from me broke off my dipstick handle. I found out when I went to check the oil and found that it had been taped back on; came off right in my hand with remnants of engine-baked cellophane tape on it. The shop had cracked my accordion air intake as well on the bottom and the engine was getting unmetered air. I took it back and the manager took responsibility.

Prior to that, an oil change/car wash place in an expensive neighborhood (with fancy cars) left my oil filler cap off. I found that a month later, and the filler cap had been left sitting next to the hood latch. Amazingly, the car had lost no oil, but there was an oil sheen *everywhere* under the hood. The shop detailed my engine and paid to replace the under-hood insulation.

Last year, yet another oil change place didn't install my drain plug properly and I toasted my engine on the highway after the plug flew out. Took three months, but the shop paid for a JDM replacement for it. My buddy walked by the shop the other day and saw a P5 in their bay and he almost ran over to warn the owner. :D I got a coupon from them just a few days ago that said "Under new ownership" on it.

I don't change my own oil here at the apartment out of fear of a mess. I'll start doing it again when I buy a house. For now, I hunt for dealership coupons and don't drive either of my Mazdas all that much. Oh, and I did the free oil change for school/university employees just the other day at the Mazda dealership - no Mazda required. EDIT: That offer is good to the end of September, btw.
Aaand this is why I have trust issues with those kinds of places. I followed your engine replacement thread pretty closely and it was certainly one of the more theatrical threads I've followed on this forum.

I can think of quite a few similar stories from friends and family as well. My dad always changed his own oil and taught me to do so as well. My parents even bought an old Toyota a few years back that had lifetime oil changes at the dealership and he still changed the oil himself.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Speaking of old and worn, my EGT insufficient flow CEL came back on. I don't remember the code because I cleared it immediately, but I think it was a p0402 maybe? I'm going to need to start thinking about cleaning the EGT or replacing it with a Canadian market one, according to PCB. I've heard people say it's hard to access? I'm going to take a nice stroll through the factory service manual to find some diagrams.

That would be your EGR.

20210827_133505.jpg


It sounds like it may be getting sticky.
If it gets really bad, your car won't run.
If you are burning a lot of oil, things get worse because the exhaust running through the EGR valve is full of oil that sticks to the EGR and gums it up.

The EGR valve is much like a solenoid valve that allows exhaust gas to get into the intake to reduce engine temperature and pollution, but an EGR valve can be closed, open, or 3-4 steps of partially open.
It's also called a step motor, that opens the valve in increments.

The "Canadian" EGR isn't listed at Rockauto for the Protege5 but it is listed for the 2L Protege.

Screenshot_20210827-135719_Brave.jpg



It has nothing to do with Canadian or American emissions.
Canada has a generally colder climate and the EGRs were failing first in Canada because a cold EGR will have exhaust gunk condense inside of it.
They made a new EGR with coolant lines attached to warm up the EGR and it was first introduced in Canada.
(A lot of Americans were phoning Canadian Mazda dealers to have the Canadian EGR shipped to them. It wasn't available in the USA for a while.)

You'll need a stubby 1/4" ratchet handle and socket to remove it, and I believe that you need the JIS screwdriver to take it apart to clean it.

I remember one guy said he put his car in gear and pushed it a bit then hit the P-brake.
That rolled the engine in the engine bay a little bit on it's mounts and gave him a little bit more room to get in there with his 1/4" stubby drive.



Thread 'EGR question.' EGR question.



You may be able to simply remove and clean your EGR, or replace it with a regular EGR if you're not burning a ton of oil and your winters aren't terribly cold.

The Canadian EGR is a lot more money and is a PITA to install.


My car has 245,000 km on it with the original EGR that is still working fine.
My car doesn't burn any oil though and I don't drive aggressively. (which I assume can foul up the EGR?)
 
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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
That would be your EGR.

View attachment 302570

It sounds like it may be getting sticky.
If it gets really bad, your car won't run.
If you are burning a lot of oil, things get worse because the exhaust running through the EGR valve is full of oil that sticks to the EGR and gums it up.

The EGR valve is much like a solenoid valve that allows exhaust gas to get into the intake to reduce engine temperature and pollution, but an EGR valve can be closed, open, or 3-4 steps of partially open.
It's also called a step motor, that opens the valve in increments.

The "Canadian" EGR isn't listed at Rockauto for the Protege5 but it is listed for the 2L Protege.

View attachment 302571


It has nothing to do with Canadian or American emissions.
Canada has a generally colder climate and the EGRs were failing first in Canada because a cold EGR will have exhaust gunk condense inside of it.
They made a new EGR with coolant lines attached to warm up the EGR and it was first introduced in Canada.
(A lot of Americans were phoning Canadian Mazda dealers to have the Canadian EGR shipped to them. It wasn't available in the USA for a while.)

You'll need a stubby 1/4" ratchet handle and socket to remove it, and I believe that you need the JIS screwdriver to take it apart to clean it.

I remember one guy said he put his car in gear and pushed it a bit then hit the P-brake.
That rolled the engine in the engine bay a little bit on it's mounts and gave him a little bit more room to get in there with his 1/4" stubby drive.



Thread 'EGR question.' EGR question.



You may be able to simply remove and clean your EGR, or replace it with a regular EGR if you're not burning a ton of oil and your winters aren't terribly cold.

The Canadian EGR is a lot more money and is a PITA to install.


My car has 245,000 km on it with the original EGR that is still working fine.
My car doesn't burn any oil though and I don't drive aggressively. (which I assume can foul up the EGR?)
As always, loads of good info from you, PCB! This is exactly what I was looking for.

I do recall hearing that the EGR can cause the car to run poorly. It could totally be a placebo effect, but mine does seem to run a little rough now, and I can actually see the RPM needle moving up and down at idle. Not sure if that's normal.

I believe my code might have been a p0401, as I recall it saying something about insufficient flow. I've seen and cleared the code probably half a dozen times now, but only recently has it begun to trigger the CEL. I would only see it coincidentally while using my OBDII reader to do MPG on trips. Now that I think about it, It has only ever tripped the CEL on cold mornings when I am up early. ("Cold" being relative, our low's right now are in the low 50s.) It's only going to get colder here over winter though.

I will see if I can find the EGR to remove and clean it. Just need to dig up those diagrams.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Here ya go...

Screenshot_20210827-151201_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg


Screenshot_20210827-151300_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg




It's real easy !!
4 simple steps.

Lol

(PS... it's a PITA.
If you've got short fat fingers, you may not be able to remove it.)

I think the bolts are hidden and you have to work on it blind ?
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Here ya go...

View attachment 302574

View attachment 302575



It's real easy !!
4 simple steps.

Lol

(PS... it's a PITA.
If you've got short fat fingers, you may not be able to remove it.)

I think the bolts are hidden and you have to work on it blind ?
Thanks!

To give myself some credit, I was actually looking in the shop manuals to find that page when you posted this. I am not used to finding things in the shop manuals though, and I was not having much luck.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I've gotten pretty good at finding stuff in the shop manual over the past 12 years that I've had my car.

The shop manual has a tendency to make things look really simple and straightforward.

This is how you remove and reinstall our manual transmission...


20210827_154755.jpg




It's in and out in 10 easy steps. Lol
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Got the EGR out. It was a bit of a puzzle, but not too bad once I figured it out. I think it took me a little over 30 minutes. The best thing about it is the fact that you don't have to do a bunch of other stuff to get to it. I removed my strut brace, the intake tube, and moved some vacuum lines and that was all the room I needed.

It definitely looks dirty inside. Now to try to figure out how to clean it properly, and then reinstall it.

PXL_20210828_192903475.jpg
PXL_20210828_192506192.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Awesome !!

You may simply have enough built up crap to restrict the flow.

Here's some pictures of the EGR from my parts car.
I kinda forgot about it, and I completely forgot that it was a Canadian EGR. Lol
20210828_160748.jpg



20210828_160737.jpg


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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
It's the plunger shaft that is of most concern.

As far as I understand it, the EGR valve is closed at idle with no exhaust getting into the intake air until you're basically cruising, that's when the step motor pushes the valve open to let exhaust into the intake.

If the plunger shaft is all sticky, the tension on the return spring isn't enough to retract the plunger after the step motor backs off and your EGR is stuck open when the car tries to goes to idle and that's when everything goes to s***.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
If you think that you may have the original EGR valve on your car then replacing the valve with a regular one might be a good idea.

Or, you could clean up what you've got and reinstall it, keeping in mind that you may have to clean it again, especially if that plunger shaft is worn, and fouls up easier now because it's worn.



I'm a cheap ass and won't spend money on my rust turd unless I've got an issue, but if that was me, I'd spend the ~$100 and replace it.



If you decide to clean and reinstall your EGR, I personally would remove the step motor from the valve and dunk the whole works in acetone.
Acetone even dissolves some plastics and rubbers.

There are no plastic or rubber parts on the valve or plunger.

You can also use Seafoam or brake cleaner.




I remember some guys were lubricating the plunger shaft, but I would advise against that.

Oil or grease is just something for the dirty/oily exhaust to condense on/stick to, and the oil/grease could burn/turn to lacquer with the hot exhaust gas hitting it.