All you need is the FCC ID of our remote and you can have combo key or flip key or stay with oem setup. I used the board out of our oem remote inside a flip key shell.......
Whaaaaaaaaat?!?? That's a thing? I want a flip key now! Can I buy one and program it to my car? Sorry maybe you already said that it can be done, but I probably missed it. Need to do this kinda research already for my dad's Tundra, so I might as well learn how it works for my Protege too!All you need is the FCC ID of our remote and you can have combo key or flip key or stay with oem setup. I used the board out of our oem remote inside a flip key shell.......
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had a shell drilled for panic button but went without panic because it was too easy to hit so on the one without panic just removed the panic part of the membrane that had that button. Panic shell below......
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.........and for my Scion xB I found a combo key and the board of the combo key fit inside a denso flip key shell so I have all 3 setups for it.
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....this is gonna make me find a combo key for the car now......thanks, lol
FCC ID for our remotes = KPU41704..........searching...........
O Kayyyy.......initial search = SOL except for oem replacement fob. I'll retract the combo key option for now, but I did make and have a working flip key. Wish there was a combo key like for the xB that had the P5 FCC ID............sux because P5 is 2003 and xB is 2004, figured there would be one for the P5 too.............
meanwhile mine is mostly rust and at 262k miles. It isnt the daily anymore. Intown driver only these days.Yeah, have had mine quite awhile too....no keys on it, mostly just novelty use here and there. I wanted to find a combo key for it like I use for the xB. That is my preferred setup. Oh well, xB is the daily driver anyway.
On that note...... According to the inspection station I have used for last 10yrs during my inspection this year, the P5 only has 4000 miles more than it did in 2011.......not zackly living up to my username, lol.....
I have a "low profile" dipstick just like yours (and kinda like it that way).
Hey, but that's not a bad place to be actually. It doesn't have to be a reliable daily right? So who cares if it breaks down for a bit or isn't super nice.meanwhile mine is mostly rust and at 262k miles. It isnt the daily anymore. Intown driver only these days.
Aaand this is why I have trust issues with those kinds of places. I followed your engine replacement thread pretty closely and it was certainly one of the more theatrical threads I've followed on this forum.Years ago, and oil change place down the street from me broke off my dipstick handle. I found out when I went to check the oil and found that it had been taped back on; came off right in my hand with remnants of engine-baked cellophane tape on it. The shop had cracked my accordion air intake as well on the bottom and the engine was getting unmetered air. I took it back and the manager took responsibility.
Prior to that, an oil change/car wash place in an expensive neighborhood (with fancy cars) left my oil filler cap off. I found that a month later, and the filler cap had been left sitting next to the hood latch. Amazingly, the car had lost no oil, but there was an oil sheen *everywhere* under the hood. The shop detailed my engine and paid to replace the under-hood insulation.
Last year, yet another oil change place didn't install my drain plug properly and I toasted my engine on the highway after the plug flew out. Took three months, but the shop paid for a JDM replacement for it. My buddy walked by the shop the other day and saw a P5 in their bay and he almost ran over to warn the owner. I got a coupon from them just a few days ago that said "Under new ownership" on it.
I don't change my own oil here at the apartment out of fear of a mess. I'll start doing it again when I buy a house. For now, I hunt for dealership coupons and don't drive either of my Mazdas all that much. Oh, and I did the free oil change for school/university employees just the other day at the Mazda dealership - no Mazda required. EDIT: That offer is good to the end of September, btw.
Speaking of old and worn, my EGT insufficient flow CEL came back on. I don't remember the code because I cleared it immediately, but I think it was a p0402 maybe? I'm going to need to start thinking about cleaning the EGT or replacing it with a Canadian market one, according to PCB. I've heard people say it's hard to access? I'm going to take a nice stroll through the factory service manual to find some diagrams.
As always, loads of good info from you, PCB! This is exactly what I was looking for.That would be your EGR.
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It sounds like it may be getting sticky.
If it gets really bad, your car won't run.
If you are burning a lot of oil, things get worse because the exhaust running through the EGR valve is full of oil that sticks to the EGR and gums it up.
The EGR valve is much like a solenoid valve that allows exhaust gas to get into the intake to reduce engine temperature and pollution, but an EGR valve can be closed, open, or 3-4 steps of partially open.
It's also called a step motor, that opens the valve in increments.
The "Canadian" EGR isn't listed at Rockauto for the Protege5 but it is listed for the 2L Protege.
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It has nothing to do with Canadian or American emissions.
Canada has a generally colder climate and the EGRs were failing first in Canada because a cold EGR will have exhaust gunk condense inside of it.
They made a new EGR with coolant lines attached to warm up the EGR and it was first introduced in Canada.
(A lot of Americans were phoning Canadian Mazda dealers to have the Canadian EGR shipped to them. It wasn't available in the USA for a while.)
You'll need a stubby 1/4" ratchet handle and socket to remove it, and I believe that you need the JIS screwdriver to take it apart to clean it.
I remember one guy said he put his car in gear and pushed it a bit then hit the P-brake.
That rolled the engine in the engine bay a little bit on it's mounts and gave him a little bit more room to get in there with his 1/4" stubby drive.
Thread 'EGR question.' EGR question.
You may be able to simply remove and clean your EGR, or replace it with a regular EGR if you're not burning a ton of oil and your winters aren't terribly cold.
The Canadian EGR is a lot more money and is a PITA to install.
My car has 245,000 km on it with the original EGR that is still working fine.
My car doesn't burn any oil though and I don't drive aggressively. (which I assume can foul up the EGR?)