So here is the install procedure I followed to convert the front turn signals to LED bulbs. The rear install can be found here:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...gnal-Install&p=6347334&viewfull=1#post6347334
The front was substantially easier, even though I did not take out the housings. There is so much room to work around in the fenders that it really is only a challenge for sight. Could have also been easier because I already did the rears, and the modification necessary to fit the VLED Triton bulbs into the housing is the same.
Enjoy!
So here is the VLED Triton kit:
Those control boxes were a challenge for the rear, but there is tons of room up front and have a very convenient mounting location. You can also see the fuse holders that activate the internal resistor to negate hyper blink, as long as you install the included 5AMP fuse. The 7443 connection adapters are also shown in the bottom of the photo.
So here is where we'll be working (this is the driver side). Like the rear housings, the Triton heat sink interferes with the stock housing where the stock bulb holder clips in. (Grey socket in the photo below). The surround of the turn signal socket needs to be shaved down so that the Triton bulb can sit flush against the housing. This surround material really only acts as a rotation prevention for the stock grey socket, so that it doesn't spin freely. However, this modification is reversible, as the stock socket can be used again tightly. (you would just be able to keep spinning it in the housing)
So here is the housing after it's been shaved down. Now we have clearance for the heatsink:
A closer shot of the modification. I shoved some duct tape into the hole while cutting and shaving so that I didn't have to worry about shavings or debris getting into the headlight:
So now that the shaving is done, the Triton bulb can mount right up (top of photo) with the included screws and thicker gasket.
Now, where to put that control box? Well, there is this nice, convenient fender support that is flat and recessed, and just the size for a VLED Triton controller. Double stick 3M Automotive tape and we have this:
And a close up of the 7443 adapter for the kit:
And now the driver side is done: (stock left, VLED right)
Video:
And there are even some free loops around to zip tie off the wires. A little electrical tape around the 7443 adapter to prevent any water penetration:
Now on to the passenger side. I was a little worried about the coolant reservoir being in the way. But three bolts get's it free and moving it towards the front of the car gets it well out of the way.
Close up of the shaving process. Looks ugly, but most of that is the tape to prevent debris getting into the housing:
And the passenger side mounting situation. Again, double stick 3M automotive adhesive and a handy place to stash the controller. Electircal tape over the 7443 adapter:
And we're done! Installed 5 AMP fuses into the built in fuse holders, activates the hyper flash resistor circuit.
Font End with LED fog lights as well:
(drinks)
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...gnal-Install&p=6347334&viewfull=1#post6347334
The front was substantially easier, even though I did not take out the housings. There is so much room to work around in the fenders that it really is only a challenge for sight. Could have also been easier because I already did the rears, and the modification necessary to fit the VLED Triton bulbs into the housing is the same.
Enjoy!
So here is the VLED Triton kit:
Those control boxes were a challenge for the rear, but there is tons of room up front and have a very convenient mounting location. You can also see the fuse holders that activate the internal resistor to negate hyper blink, as long as you install the included 5AMP fuse. The 7443 connection adapters are also shown in the bottom of the photo.
So here is where we'll be working (this is the driver side). Like the rear housings, the Triton heat sink interferes with the stock housing where the stock bulb holder clips in. (Grey socket in the photo below). The surround of the turn signal socket needs to be shaved down so that the Triton bulb can sit flush against the housing. This surround material really only acts as a rotation prevention for the stock grey socket, so that it doesn't spin freely. However, this modification is reversible, as the stock socket can be used again tightly. (you would just be able to keep spinning it in the housing)
So here is the housing after it's been shaved down. Now we have clearance for the heatsink:
A closer shot of the modification. I shoved some duct tape into the hole while cutting and shaving so that I didn't have to worry about shavings or debris getting into the headlight:
So now that the shaving is done, the Triton bulb can mount right up (top of photo) with the included screws and thicker gasket.
Now, where to put that control box? Well, there is this nice, convenient fender support that is flat and recessed, and just the size for a VLED Triton controller. Double stick 3M Automotive tape and we have this:
And a close up of the 7443 adapter for the kit:
And now the driver side is done: (stock left, VLED right)
Video:
And there are even some free loops around to zip tie off the wires. A little electrical tape around the 7443 adapter to prevent any water penetration:
Now on to the passenger side. I was a little worried about the coolant reservoir being in the way. But three bolts get's it free and moving it towards the front of the car gets it well out of the way.
Close up of the shaving process. Looks ugly, but most of that is the tape to prevent debris getting into the housing:
And the passenger side mounting situation. Again, double stick 3M automotive adhesive and a handy place to stash the controller. Electircal tape over the 7443 adapter:
And we're done! Installed 5 AMP fuses into the built in fuse holders, activates the hyper flash resistor circuit.
Font End with LED fog lights as well:
(drinks)
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