CX-5 Transmission: Drain and fill vs flush vs oil pan drop drain/fill?

q1054521247q

Member
:
CX5 17GT,21SIG
Hello guys,
I had 55000 miles on my 21 cx5 signature now all I have done to the car is engine oil/filter and basic maintenance stuff. With the exception of spark plugs changed at 45000 miles. I have been calling around the dealership asking for AWD fluid change and transmission fluid change. called many different dealerships around they told me many options for transmission service with a wide price range too.

first, is AWD fluid the same as differential fluid? and at what mileage should I get that serviced? all the dealerships I have called, have never done AWD fluid change before. can I do the service myself?

as for transmission fluid. I know and have seen most Asian markets drop the oil pan and clean the magnet/change the filter inside and fill the fluid. But the NA market dealerships told me "It's a sealed unit and can not drop the pan" and they will not drop the pan because they don't want to be responsible for oil leaks later on. so of course I'm not confident enough to do that as well. (I have never done it before. I don't wanna overfill, don't know how to check the level. also never play with RTV before don't want it to leak on me)

option 2 flush costs 300-450. It's a little on the high side. At Asian markets. dealership and local shops do not recommend doing flush because some said "will cause shifting problems like jark.... because it flushes all the dirty particles into gears (but isn't the current oil in the car pushing around those dirty particles around the gears too?????)" now I'm not sure how true that is. But most dealerships here in Texas recommend Flush said it's cleaner and won't contaminate the new oil going in and said to be the best way to replace all the transmission fluid. Normal flush where just replace all old with new oil it's about 300. and Full flush with BG I think its 450.(is that good or not necessary)

option 3 the basic just drill and fluid. cost around 150-200ish. I know this will drain all the fluid but how much will stay in the trans and how much new oil will add?

which option would you guys recommend? I don't think I have enough knowledge to do either option so will probably leave it to the dealership to do with whichever option based on this form.
 
BG ATF isn't Mazda FZ. Two different things. So that's automatically a non-starter.

Grab a half dozen quarts of Mazda Type FZ and a filter, then find a local independent who will do your filter change for you. Probably looking at $100 labor.
 
You can change the rear differential fluid. You drain and fill that not too much differently than an oil change. You have to get up under there though so it’s easier to do it the car is jacked up. There’s likely a transfer case up at the front of the car that can be drained and filled too (sorry, my ‘13 is a FWD so I’m trying to go off memory).

I’d recommend having the transmission simply drained and filled. Once is good, I did mine three times but I’ve read one is sufficient to renew the fluid. A little less than half of the fluid drains out, with a little more than half staying within the torque converter. The transmission cannot be “flushed” unless the shop has a very special and rare adapter. There are no lines that enter or exit the transmission to service the fluid, so I’d be very wary of any shops that say they have this capability.
 
Mazda does not recommend any fluid changes beyond engine oil. Honestly, I found this to be a bit odd having owned honda awd vehicles, which require fairly frequent (15-30k miles) differential, transfer case and trans changes. i have a 2019 cx5 and my son has a 2018, both with roughly 30k miles, and to be honest, I have no idea when/if things should be changed. Do I stick with the manual or pursue the changes, which I can do myself. I haven’t come across seeing widespread issues with Mazda differential, transfer cases or transmissions so maybe Mazda is right.

if I were to do trans, i would just do 3x3 and not drop the pan, but it’s kind of a pain in this car as you have to take the air box on and off so you can drive the car between drains.
 
Beware of the dealership that quotes you a price for flushing the transmission.

The Skyactive trans cannot be flushed without a special adapter and from my reading on this forum, this adapter is not a common thing, and most shops don't have it.

I suggest that the OP do some reading on this forum as there are several threads that address this.
 
Mazda does not recommend any fluid changes beyond engine oil. Honestly, I found this to be a bit odd having owned honda awd vehicles, which require fairly frequent (15-30k miles) differential, transfer case and trans changes. i have a 2019 cx5 and my son has a 2018, both with roughly 30k miles, and to be honest, I have no idea when/if things should be changed. Do I stick with the manual or pursue the changes, which I can do myself. I haven’t come across seeing widespread issues with Mazda differential, transfer cases or transmissions so maybe Mazda is right.

if I were to do trans, i would just do 3x3 and not drop the pan, but it’s kind of a pain in this car as you have to take the air box on and off so you can drive the car between drains.
Same here, Honda likes lots of fluid changes. Both my Mazda's have just passed 40,000 miles and I will start doing a drain/fill transmission fluid each year for the next 2 if I keep them that long.
Will change the transfer case fluid on the first tranny drain/fill.
 
Hello guys,
I had 55000 miles on my 21 cx5 signature
Goodness me, it's only two years old.
I know someone will argue this one, but I'd leave it alone. Not necessary at this point, unless you are having issues, in which case a fluid change won't fix it.
If you do decide to go ahead, don't do a flush with one of those machines. They do more harm than good. Drain and fill.
 
Goodness me, it's only two years old.
I know someone will argue this one, but I'd leave it alone. Not necessary at this point, unless you are having issues, in which case a fluid change won't fix it.
If you do decide to go ahead, don't do a flush with one of those machines. They do more harm than good. Drain and fill.
Funny how folks will argue about it right? I personally change it for peace of mind (and now would be the time for the OP before letting it go too long where it should definitely stay), but we do have folks over on the high mileage thread who have never touched the transmission fluid without issue. The SkyActiv transmission seems to generate far fewer wear metals than a traditional transmission. My Blackstone analysis on 50k and 100k fluid changes demonstrated it too. I’m guessing it’s due to the torque converter being in a locked condition more quickly and often than other transmissions.

My RAV4s (‘19 gas, ‘21 Hybrid) have a similar prescribed maintenance. No transmission fluid change recommended for normal driving conditions, but I do appreciate that the manual suggests a change for severe conditions (towing, rooftop car carrier, etc).
 
Does Mazda use synthetic transmission fluid? honda doesn’t. I just changed the fluid on my 2019 pilot at 30k using VML, much better fluid and actual made a noticeable difference
 
Does Mazda use synthetic transmission fluid? honda doesn’t. I just changed the fluid on my 2019 pilot at 30k using VML, much better fluid and actual made a noticeable difference
Yes, Mazda's FZ synthetic is the only transmission fluid I will use. Not cheap, but cheap insurance against potential problems using other fluids. If by VML you mean Valvoline Max Life, it's a great fluid and I used it in my previous car (GM 4T65E transmission). There were more choices available for a transmission that uses one of the Dexron's. Another decent fluid, though not as widely available, was Wolf's Head. IIRC, the worst was Quaker State. Slow, sloppy feeling shifts. Made the car feel 'doggy'.
 
I can’t find any local independent shops that will do this for me lol.

I think I might just have to do this myself. I don’t trust dealership much. They always over fill my engine oil.

Can someone instruct me how to do drain and fill and how to check oil levels when I add the trans fluid back in. And how many QT of “Mazda ATF” I need ? Is it call the atf fluid ?
 
Drain plug is obvious. But yours may be the old style with that takes and Allen key to loosen. If it is, when you're putting everything back together, replace it. There's a TSB that has the updated part number.
After the fluid is drained, loosen the perimeter bolts and drop the pan.
Replace the filter
Installation is reverse.

Check level when hot, engine idling in neutral. The dip stick is under the air box.

Should take between 4 and 4.5 quarts, so buy 5.

That's it.
 
Start with draining and filling the transfer case and rear differential. If you’re confident there, move on and try draining and filling the transmission.

After refilling the transmission with type FZ fluid (see how much above, probably about four quarts), the fluid level needs to be checked on the transmission dipstick with the engine running and the transmission fluid at operating temperature.

Still feeling confident and want to try replacing the transmission filter? You can try draining again after some driving. Removing the pan is a pain in the ass due to the dried gasket sealant. I bought a pan removal tool to help separate it, and you need to put a lot of time and effort removing the old RTV from the pan and the transmission housing. the two surfaces need to be very clean and you have to be patient reinstalling the pan with new liquid RTV. You can do a silicone gasket too if it comes with the new filter. A 1/4” drive torque wrench is good for ensuring the bolts aren’t tightened too much
 
Start with draining and filling the transfer case and rear differential. If you’re confident there, move on and try draining and filling the transmission.

After refilling the transmission with type FZ fluid (see how much above, probably about four quarts), the fluid level needs to be checked on the transmission dipstick with the engine running and the transmission fluid at operating temperature.

Still feeling confident and want to try replacing the transmission filter? You can try draining again after some driving. Removing the pan is a pain in the ass due to the dried gasket sealant. I bought a pan removal tool to help separate it, and you need to put a lot of time and effort removing the old RTV from the pan and the transmission housing. the two surfaces need to be very clean and you have to be patient reinstalling the pan with new liquid RTV. You can do a silicone gasket too if it comes with the new filter. A 1/4” drive torque wrench is good for ensuring the bolts aren’t tightened too much
How do you check the trans fluid with the engine running if you have to have the air box removed to get to the dip stick? I’d think you’d get engine codes popping up with the air flow sensor unplugged.
 
The whole air cleaner box comes out with like two bolts and two clips. The top half that holds the mass air kinda floats. So, reinstall that portion (or never unhook it to begin with) and simply leave the bottom half of the box out while the engine idles back up to temp!

With the bottom half of the air box out of the way, the dip stick is right there, easy to reach.
 
Any member in Texas want to do the pan drop for me lol😂 I would gladly pay. If not I’m just do drain and fill, FZ should get here Wednesday
 
Back