Trade In Value

cmceleste

Member
:
2013 CX-5
Any one know what a trade in value might be? Unfortunately I am looking to sell to save where I can. I financed in April and still owe 16,500 and the car has 13,500 miles. Went to a couple dealers and was offered 12-15k. I know cars depreciate in value after the first day off the lot, but that much in a year? Lower monthly payments will almost be a necessity in the future, but I cant validate taking that big of a hit.
Thoughts?
 
First look at the Kelly Blue Book site to see what bargaining power you might possess and also see if Carmax would be interested (dunno since it still has a lien holder).
 
Sell it yourself! Why buy retail and sell wholesale?

This is a very valid point, you will never get a really fair price if you are trying to trade-in a vehicle. You can often times get more selling yourself.

One thought though, if you are simply looking to lower your car-payment, you might consider re-financing with a local credit union.
 
carmax is another good source to get a value. KBB is good but most dealers have moved on to the black book for pricing, which is updated more and tends to give lower values. Some dealer sites out there will give you the black book value if you give them some contact information (doesn't necessarily have to be real contact info)

As paris1 said, if you trade it in you are selling wholesale and most dealers make more markup in the used car department than in the new car one. And to do that they buy low. The dealer is going to offer you about $7,000 less than you paid and then offer the car on their lot for $2,500 below new.

$7,000 to $8,000 seems to be a somewhat normal drop for a trade in on a year old vehicle that starts out in the mid to upper 20,000 range. From the couple that I ran the numbers on online that first year is a hard hit and then the second year is very minimal.
 
Having been on both sides of this process recently (buying & selling)...my experience is this...

#1 - Carmax is going to come in low compared to any dealership that you might be trading in. I had a 2006 Tacoma. Dealerships where I was looking at cars for a potential trade were offering $18.5k (after some negotiating). Carmax came in at $16k.

#2 - You should be factoring tax savings in to your value...I.E. - If a dealership was offering me $18.5 for my truck in trade and I was looking to buy a $30k new car, I am only taxed on the difference = $11.5k ...which means that I saved .0685 (Utah tax rate) x $18.5k = $1267...so my final number for the value on the truck was $18.5k + $1267 = $19,767 (hopefully that makes sense)

#3 - Research your local want ads. I found that most Tacoma's with similar mileage & condition were listed for $20k-$24k...so as the earlier poster said...I listed the truck myself and came in about $1k over what the trade in offer was (sold at $21k). If you have the patience for it, it's the best way to go.


The key for you is that you need to be knowledgeable about what the values are on your car from places like KBB, NADA & Edmunds. Do your homework & you'll get closer to what your vehicle is really worth...and make sure if you are trading in to negotiate the price of your car separate from the trade-in...otherwise they'll try to play with the numbers & you'll get hosed.
 
1. If you want to keep your CX-5, which would probably good if you can afford it since you just bought it and it gets good gas mileage (also will save you money), then try to refinance first. Do you work in a profession, such as teaching or medicine, where there is a credit union available for your use? If not, look at "community" credit unions, made for only people who live in certain counties or regions. Credit unions give much better rates than big box banks, and will work with you to reduce your payment. My brother had a car he financed through a major bank, and within a year he had to take a lower paying job and couldn't afford the payment anymore (approximately $460/month). He had only paid on the loan for about 8 months and thought he was going to have to sell his new car at a loss. I recommended a credit union to him, they worked with him, and his payment is now $317/month with a lower interest rate - part of that is because the loan was now restarted (remaining balance stretched over a new 60 loan term instead of the remaining 52) but most of it is from almost HALF the interest rate (his credit rate wasn't so good) - rate went from 7.X% something to 4.X% something.

2. If you would rather sell, do NOT sell to a dealership! There are very few times when a dealership will give more bang for your buck. They specialize in making a profit, at your expense. Think about it...if your car is worth X amount, then someone is only going to pay X amount at the dealer...so the dealer can't pay YOU X or they won't make a profit. So the dealer pays you a much lower amount than X, and you lose a large amount of your value. Try eBay motors - I once sold an older vehicle on there that my dealership was offering $3,500 for, max, even after multiple attempts at haggling and going to other dealerships (all of which offering $3,500 or less). I chose to do eBay instead, and within one week it was sold for $5,700. Quite a large difference and an nice chunk of change for an older car I didn't drive anymore.

3. If you choose to sell instead of refinance, don't get yourself into this situation again. You see now how quick cars depreciate in value. They are a horrible investment, and too many Americans think in terms of "affording the payment" instead of affording the car. We have a bizarre culture where we all spend far beyond our means and spend the rest of our lives working to pay for it, simply accepting that a huge car, home, and student loan payment is just par for the course. Honestly, it shouldn't be - we shouldn't all be one paycheck away from losing our stuff. Use this fact to your advantage - there are many cars, less than a year old, that you can pick up a lot cheaper than a new car. And then you're the one that gets to take advantage of that huge depreciation in the first year.

Good luck
 
I'd say it is still worth the quick stop at a Carmax, in my personal experience they've been much higher than the dealership, nearly twice as much on our last car. But I'm sure that varies by car and location. Carmax tends to be more expensive for buying a used car but they move so many that they have to keep getting more cars to sell. My old boss used to complain that at the auctions Carmax would just buy everything, running the prices up.

Not all states end up with a tax savings on a trade in. I'm not sure which ones do and don't but in California you are taxed on the full sale price of the car, regardless of trade in.

I'd have to agree though that refinancing it at a better rate and lower payment really sounds like the best option.

yep, even after listening to Clark Howard say that "driving a used car for four years is the financial equivalent of owning a new car for 10 years." it is still nice to have a new car sometimes but unless you don't care about taking a big hit you have to keep it a long time for it to work out. Or buy a really inexpensive new car so that even with a big percentage of depreciation it isn't that large of a dollar amount. But then you could have a nicer slightly used car in place of a really cheap new car....
 
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Sell it yourself! Why buy retail and sell wholesale?

Agreed, buying retail and selling/trading at wholesales is too expensive.

Better and less costly scenario, look at refi at a Credit Union (such at CEFCU) with 60 or 72 month terms at under 2.0% interest rate, that will bring down payments.
 
No used car value websites I have been to list the 2013 MAZDA CX-5 yet.

I also have had good luck at CARMAX on a previous vehicle.

I think it would be hard to see more than 15$k trade-in at a dealer. You might see $16 from carmax.
 
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1. If you want to keep your CX-5, which would probably good if you can afford it since you just bought it and it gets good gas mileage (also will save you money), then try to refinance first. Do you work in a profession, such as teaching or medicine, where there is a credit union available for your use? If not, look at "community" credit unions, made for only people who live in certain counties or regions. Credit unions give much better rates than big box banks, and will work with you to reduce your payment. My brother had a car he financed through a major bank, and within a year he had to take a lower paying job and couldn't afford the payment anymore (approximately $460/month). He had only paid on the loan for about 8 months and thought he was going to have to sell his new car at a loss. I recommended a credit union to him, they worked with him, and his payment is now $317/month with a lower interest rate - part of that is because the loan was now restarted (remaining balance stretched over a new 60 loan term instead of the remaining 52) but most of it is from almost HALF the interest rate (his credit rate wasn't so good) - rate went from 7.X% something to 4.X% something.

2. If you would rather sell, do NOT sell to a dealership! There are very few times when a dealership will give more bang for your buck. They specialize in making a profit, at your expense. Think about it...if your car is worth X amount, then someone is only going to pay X amount at the dealer...so the dealer can't pay YOU X or they won't make a profit. So the dealer pays you a much lower amount than X, and you lose a large amount of your value. Try eBay motors - I once sold an older vehicle on there that my dealership was offering $3,500 for, max, even after multiple attempts at haggling and going to other dealerships (all of which offering $3,500 or less). I chose to do eBay instead, and within one week it was sold for $5,700. Quite a large difference and an nice chunk of change for an older car I didn't drive anymore.

3. If you choose to sell instead of refinance, don't get yourself into this situation again. You see now how quick cars depreciate in value. They are a horrible investment, and too many Americans think in terms of "affording the payment" instead of affording the car. We have a bizarre culture where we all spend far beyond our means and spend the rest of our lives working to pay for it, simply accepting that a huge car, home, and student loan payment is just par for the course. Honestly, it shouldn't be - we shouldn't all be one paycheck away from losing our stuff. Use this fact to your advantage - there are many cars, less than a year old, that you can pick up a lot cheaper than a new car. And then you're the one that gets to take advantage of that huge depreciation in the first year.

Good luck

Sage advice! I just bought a 2013 CX-5 GT, put $5k down and was able to score their 0.9% financing deal, this is one of the only times that NEW may be a good way to go, tough to get a pre-owned anywhere with a rate like that.
 
No used car value websites I have been to list the 2013 MAZDA CX-5 yet.

I also have had good luck at CARMAX on a previous vehicle.

I think it would be hard to see more than 15$k trade-in at a dealer. You might see $16 from carmax.
And you might see well over $20k selling it yourself!(hand)
 
It may also hurt the value that it appears the 2013s do have some decent markdowns coming. Found a Sport model with AT for $21000 today.

It is harder to compete with $2,500 off new when selling 1 year used.
 
The case, as always with liquidating "older" models, but especially so for those of us who pulled the trigger early, and have a seemingly less desireable 2.0l engine, with the 2.5l on the horizon in the 2014 m/y.
 
Yes, as attractive as the leftover model year 2013 pricing sounds, around here inventory (and therefore selection) has dwindled drastically in last couple of weeks.
 
Living in Long Beach, I'm surprised it wasn't totaled during Hurricane Sandy....that would have been the best out for you.
 
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