I just wanted to start a thread asking what tools would be needed for a complete engine build for a performance street engine. I am not an expert, but I am a quick learner and want to do a lot myself so I can get practice for more projects in the future. Price of the tools is not an issue. I know the basics, but it is the special tools that I would like to know most.
Tools for Complete engine build?
- Thread starter jurgs01
- Start date
driftingMSP
Member
actually, my friend and i are just about done with my engine rebuild.
it requires most of the standard tools for an engine rebuild.
defintely invest in a good metric socket set: deep well and regular
a good ratchett...extensions...and breaker bar
a torque wrench - make sure you get your torque specs...very important
an impact if you can get it
hex keys
open ended wrenches
a mallet
screwdrivers
a scraper for the gaskets
an engine stand
a cherry picker
synthetic grease
engine lube
...some other stuff
if you are actually replacing stock parts with aftermarket parts youll need
to replace all your gaskets (either way), and belts, coolent, oil, tranny fluid,
and some of the screws (to ensure no stripping)
it requires most of the standard tools for an engine rebuild.
defintely invest in a good metric socket set: deep well and regular
a good ratchett...extensions...and breaker bar
a torque wrench - make sure you get your torque specs...very important
an impact if you can get it
hex keys
open ended wrenches
a mallet
screwdrivers
a scraper for the gaskets
an engine stand
a cherry picker
synthetic grease
engine lube
...some other stuff
if you are actually replacing stock parts with aftermarket parts youll need
to replace all your gaskets (either way), and belts, coolent, oil, tranny fluid,
and some of the screws (to ensure no stripping)
I have almost all of the tools to do the basic rebuild. What would you use for the more specialty work. The things people usually send them off to shops for. Valve jobs, chamfering your oil galley ports, bore and hone on the block for piston clearance, balancing your crank, balancing your pistons/rods, etc. I have what I need for the P/P job already. I want to do my first rebuild on this car for practice, then I have a few other projects waiting (68 Camaro mmmmm
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
The guy that did my valve job just spent 34k on a new cnc machine for valve jobs only. He spent 15k on balancing equipment, has one of the best decking machines available that puts a glass finish on the deck, lathes, boring, honing machines, etc... In his 4 car garage he said he had alittle over 220-240k in machinery.
the price for the equipment you would need is like"wow" way over the top.
but thats the least of it,knowing what to do,how to do it,not to mention learning to do machining take a life time.
this is why we have specialty shops,you don't go buy a airplane,get a pilots license so you can take a weekend vacation,would you?
but thats the least of it,knowing what to do,how to do it,not to mention learning to do machining take a life time.
this is why we have specialty shops,you don't go buy a airplane,get a pilots license so you can take a weekend vacation,would you?
Several weekend vacations? Yes, I'm one of those strange people that would. That's probably why I'm a computer scientist with a mother that was vehemously against me working on cars, now doing a full engine replacement on my Protege (driving style beat the pulp out of it). I've got to stick with the dream that I can do anything that I want to, but it's my responsibility to research and ask for help when needed. At this point, I'd like to give a thank you to all that have helped me in the past with advice (Little Beavis, Clark18, many others that I'm regrettably forgetting the names of). It's all about the community, and everyone should do their part, whether it be warning you to watch your torque specs, to suggesting that you shouldn't try something without a certain machine. If you've tried something, let us know what you've learned from the process. But don't suggest things are out of our reach.
wicked said:
you can know a little of everthing,but you can't know everthing.
it's not practicle to do your own machining,unless you do it for a occupation,or a avid hobby.
building the engine yourself,is fine,and a very good idea,if you have te ability.I have built a few of mine,but I allways send out for machining.
if you disagree with this,then I am going to unsubscribe from this thread,because I don't like to argue with people who disagree simply because they are ignorant,or just don't listen to logic.
it's not practicle to do your own machining,unless you do it for a occupation,or a avid hobby.
building the engine yourself,is fine,and a very good idea,if you have te ability.I have built a few of mine,but I allways send out for machining.
if you disagree with this,then I am going to unsubscribe from this thread,because I don't like to argue with people who disagree simply because they are ignorant,or just don't listen to logic.
If you're that into the car, the absolute first thing I do (or recommend) is to get the genuine factory manual. They've gotten REALLY pricey for Toyotas, but most fo the jobs I've done couldn't have been done well without the factory manual. When starting a big job, I go through every step, identify what SSTs (Special Service Tools) or SSMs (Special Service Materials) I'll think I'll need, and shop accordingly. I've accumulated most of what I've needed over the last 20 years, so I don't usually buy, unless it "interests me" vs. "needing it".
After you've gone through the manual, for an engine rebuild, I'd probably suggest a good set of sockets, wrenches, breaker bars, etc. Then it depends how much work you actually want to do on the engine. To be honest, some of the engine work is so specific, that I'd pay someone else who's good at it, and does it well, to do it. The short block I'd probably source out to one shop, and have them assemble and torque the crank and pistons on. The head I'd probably source out to another, and have them assemble the valves. That way, all you have to do is torque the head to the block, and maybe some under-engine and oil-pump work (plus timing belt, etc).
To that end, you can probably skip the feeler gauges and plasti-gauge, since you won't be doing bearing work or doing valve shims. But by all means, the better and more torque wrenches you can afford, the better. I'd suggest at least a 3/8" 10-100 foot/pound, a 1/2" 25-250 foot/pound, and a 3/8" inch/ounce (you run into some of those, believe it or not).
It all depends how much you want to do yourself, and how much you want to source out...
Steve B.
'03.5 MSP
After you've gone through the manual, for an engine rebuild, I'd probably suggest a good set of sockets, wrenches, breaker bars, etc. Then it depends how much work you actually want to do on the engine. To be honest, some of the engine work is so specific, that I'd pay someone else who's good at it, and does it well, to do it. The short block I'd probably source out to one shop, and have them assemble and torque the crank and pistons on. The head I'd probably source out to another, and have them assemble the valves. That way, all you have to do is torque the head to the block, and maybe some under-engine and oil-pump work (plus timing belt, etc).
To that end, you can probably skip the feeler gauges and plasti-gauge, since you won't be doing bearing work or doing valve shims. But by all means, the better and more torque wrenches you can afford, the better. I'd suggest at least a 3/8" 10-100 foot/pound, a 1/2" 25-250 foot/pound, and a 3/8" inch/ounce (you run into some of those, believe it or not).
It all depends how much you want to do yourself, and how much you want to source out...
Steve B.
'03.5 MSP
jurgs01 said:
