Synthetic engine oil not being used..?

Good morning Mazda folks 🌞
Today I’m getting oil and filter change, 1000 on odometer. Was informed synthetic oil is not being used by Mazda because of turbo heat.
Whaaat?
All my BMWs use synthetic, from the e39 to g30, what’s up with that?
 
Good morning Mazda folks 🌞
Today I’m getting oil and filter change, 1000 on odometer. Was informed synthetic oil is not being used by Mazda because of turbo heat.
Whaaat?
All my BMWs use synthetic, from the e39 to g30, what’s up with that?
It seems if you get your oil changed at the Mazda dealer that's what they use. I would change it again next spring and get synthetic, despite their recommendation.
 
Good morning Mazda folks 🌞
Today I’m getting oil and filter change, 1000 on odometer. Was informed synthetic oil is not being used by Mazda because of turbo heat.
Whaaat?
All my BMWs use synthetic, from the e39 to g30, what’s up with that?

1000 miles is too soon to be dumping the factory fill.

and the filter is still going to be perfectly clean. Why?
 
I think it depends which mazda dealer you go too. I am in Canada but my mazda dealer here only use synthetic for my CX-9 (2.5L turbo).
 
Good morning Mazda folks 🌞
Today I’m getting oil and filter change, 1000 on odometer. Was informed synthetic oil is not being used by Mazda because of turbo heat.
Whaaat?
All my BMWs use synthetic, from the e39 to g30, what’s up with that?

The dealer probably just wants to save a buck by using their bulk conventional/synthetic blend oil. If you want to push it further, you can call them out on it. If synthetic oil is not to be used, it would have been specified in the owner's manual or in a dealer communication. It could just be that the person you talked to doesn't know any better.

If it were me, after your oil change, I just wouldn't come back. The owner's manual specifies exactly what needs to be inspected/replaced/lubricated at certain intervals, and as long as you maintain a detailed log of services and keep your receipts (or keep all invoices from a third-party shop that does the work for you), your warranty will remain intact. You just have to be sure that they're using the correct parts, so you either supply them with the parts or you verify what they're going to use before they do the work.
 
1000 miles oil change on new vehicle has been my practice ever since I’ve own cars.
Others may not believe it but it’s my maintenance for longer use and ownership plus cost of oil changes are not that expensive.
 
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My Mazda dealer uses Full Synthetic exclusively on turbocharged models. Dino oil or "Synthetic Blend" is a poor choice with a Turbo. The reason is that when you shut down the motor, the temperature (especially in the Turbocharger) will spike. That results in a process called "Coking", where the oil breaks down are creates an abrasive residue. When this occurs on the bearings in your Turbocharger, it can contribute to premature failure.

You can learn more by going to the Mobil One website or doing a Google Search of "Coking residue". Much has been written about this on the Aviation forums, as turbochargers have been routinely used on aircraft for decades.
 
It's not a "poor" choice, it's just not ideal. If conventional oil or a synthetic blend was bad to use, Mazda would specify only synthetic oil to be used. Instead, for all vehicles where 5W-30 is either the standard recommendation (2.5T) or an accepted alternative (3.3T), synthetic oil is not a requirement. All that matters is that the oil meets or exceeds the quality designations of SM, SN, or SP.

Synthetic oil is safer and better, no question. Still, conventional oil is safe to use in these cars. Dealers only use it because it's cheaper to buy in bulk, and also because they can "upcharge" for synthetic if the owner requests it.
 
Synthetic oil is the best for turbos. I don’t care what the dealer says. They have a higher tolerance and I’ve always had good success running full synthetic and having cars that last long, especially considering I beat the hell out of them. The reason they use synthetic blend is to try and save a couple pennies. I had two free oil changes and they refused to do full synthetic but once I start doing the oil changes at my Indy mechanic I’m definitely going full synthetic.
 
1000 miles oil change on new vehicle has been my practice ever since I’ve own cars.
Others may not believe it but it’s my maintenance for longer use and ownership plus cost of oil changes are not that expensive.
I've always done my first oil change early on every new car as well, but not at 1,000 miles. That's a bit of overkill in my humble opinion. The engine is probably not 100% broken in by then either.
I usually do my first at between 2 and 2.5K. But then again, whatever makes you happy and comfortable .
 
The engine is probably not 100% broken in by then either.
It's not, but you at least get the dirt and silicone out of the oil, plus the fuel from before the rings seated, so that the remainder of the break-in is using clean oil. My fuel dilution was 4% at 1,200 miles and over the next 3,000 miles it only reached 2.5%.

BMW mandates a 1,200 mile change on their M series cars--it comes up on the infotainment telling you to take it in for service.
 
It's not, but you at least get the dirt and silicone out of the oil, plus the fuel from before the rings seated, so that the remainder of the break-in is using clean oil. My fuel dilution was 4% at 1,200 miles and over the next 3,000 miles it only reached 2.5%.
Very helpful to know!
 
Yes, for most commuter cars you want to use regular/synthetic oil. Most come with a special break in oil from factory meant to help break in the parts. Which is why they typically recommend 500 to 1000 miles before the first oil change.

New Chevy Corvettes, as well as other high-end supercars recommend full synthetic only.
 
Yes, for most commuter cars you want to use regular/synthetic oil. Most come with a special break in oil from factory meant to help break in the parts. Which is why they typically recommend 500 to 1000 miles before the first oil change.

New Chevy Corvettes, as well as other high-end supercars recommend full synthetic only.
I beg to differ on that. I've been doing a lot of searching, and other than anecdotal stories, there is really no evidence that manufacturers use a special break in oil in today's vehicles. Maybe high end cars, like a Ferrari or something they do, but not on your run of the mill Honda, Toyota or any other main stream car maker.
I also haven't seen anywhere that manufacturers recommend changing the oil at between 500 to 1,000 miles. That's a personal choice. It's certainly not in any user manuals I've read lately. I have a 2023 Stinger, bought new, and nowhere in the manual does it say anything about early oil changes or special break in oil. The only thing it says about breaking in the car is the usual stuff about taking it easy and not going crazy with it for the first 1,000 kms.
 
Makes sense to not be necessary on new cars where they are able to reach certain tolerances but I’ve worked in a mechanic shop for built motors. They Always used some special oil to help break in motors for first 500-1000 miles. Metals during break in period just seem to flake/shear during first couple hundred miles and it’s visible in first/second oil changes. Just my experience. Purchased new car and did oil change after 1000 miles and they were like your wasting your money and time but I consider it an investment.
 
I beg to differ on that. I've been doing a lot of searching, and other than anecdotal stories, there is really no evidence that manufacturers use a special break in oil in today's vehicles.
Right. That is a thing of the past, from what I understand.

But the rationale for early oil changes is based on oil analysis. We know that the most wear that your engine will see is in the first few hundred to few thousand miles. The rings are also not fully seated and thus you'll see a higher rate of fuel getting by into the oil during that time. If you did enough oil samples you could plot out wear over time and watch the curve fall to normal levels.
 
But the rationale for early oil changes is based on oil analysis. We know that the most wear that your engine will see is in the first few hundred to few thousand miles. The rings are also not fully seated and thus you'll see a higher rate of fuel getting by into the oil during that time. If you did enough oil samples you could plot out wear over time and watch the curve fall to normal levels.
When my Mazda 6 had about 3000km on it, I ran it to redline quite a few times one night. Burned some oil for most of it's life. One day, I noticed it just... Stopped consuming oil. Seemed to be correlated with a switch to 5w30 oil, though I cannot confirm that. Eventually resumed consumption again. Fast forward to today, over 300,000KM, I haven't seen much consumption on the dipstick for a while now.

I recently realized this could also be related to oil leaking.
 
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