Suspension rebuild on 2014 CX-5 with 145,000 miles

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inverted25

Member
:
2014 Mazda CX-5 Sport AWD
I have a 2014 CX-5 with 145,000 miles. I noticed the tires were getting wore unevenly with the inside of the tires wearing down much faster than the outside. I decided to replace the front strut/coil assemblies and the rear shocks. Once I got working on the car I ended up having to replace the inner and outer tie rods on the front, the sway bar links front and back and the front lower control arms. I had two sway bar links that had broken off and were just hanging by one side. The ball joint on the passenger front had excess play in it so I replaced both lower control arms.

I am about to change the spark plugs and do a drain and fill on the transmission with a filter replacement. Is there anything else that I should be addressing at these miles.

The only things done besides normal maintenance on this car has been replacing the rear brake calipers due to a locked up caliper around 90,000 miles. I also had to replace a switch in the shifter control column awhile back.
 
inverted25 said:
I have a 2014 CX-5 with 145,000 miles. I noticed the tires were getting wore unevenly with the inside of the tires wearing down much faster than the outside. I decided to replace the front strut/coil assemblies and the rear shocks. Once I got working on the car I ended up having to replace the inner and outer tie rods on the front, the sway bar links front and back and the front lower control arms. I had two sway bar links that had broken off and were just hanging by one side. The ball joint on the passenger front had excess play in it so I replaced both lower control arms.

I am about to change the spark plugs and do a drain and fill on the transmission with a filter replacement. Is there anything else that I should be addressing at these miles.

The only things done besides normal maintenance on this car has been replacing the rear brake calipers due to a locked up caliper around 90,000 miles. I also had to replace a switch in the shifter control column awhile back.
Click to expand...
Radiator flush( only good for 10 years/120,000 miles)
Heater core flush
Check your coolant hoses.
New rotors ? If not replaced during caliper change.
Check you brake lines.
Brake fluid flush.
If AWD, differential flush.
Power steering fluid flush would be nice.

Radiator flush is most important. Aluminum may not rust but it does slowly corrode very well and this will corrode and ruin your engine at some point. Is just as important as engine oil changes.

If rust is really starting to eat car, then fluid film the underbody...it's cheap ...less than $100 for fluid film and materials( sprayer, etc.) Or just get spray cans FF.

If your planning on keeping this vehicle for several more years, you may want to have the tranny and differential fluid tested.
 
Jack Rabbit said:
Radiator flush( only good for 10 years/120,000 miles)
Heater core flush
Check your coolant hoses.
New rotors ? If not replaced during caliper change.
Check you brake lines.
Brake fluid flush.
If AWD, differential flush.
Power steering fluid flush would be nice.

Radiator flush is most important. Aluminum may not rust but it does slowly corrode very well and this will corrode and ruin your engine at some point. Is just as important as engine oil changes.

If rust is really starting to eat car, then fluid film the underbody...it's cheap ...less than $100 for fluid film and materials( sprayer, etc.) Or just get spray cans FF.
Click to expand...
Rotors have been replaced each time I did the brakes. I have replaced all four brake hoses as well after the locked caliper. I have changed out the brake fluid at each pad change as well. I do the work myself so I always spend the extra time to change the fluid. I did just notice a small leak where the master cylinder enters the brake booster. I think that seal has gone bad. Planning to order a new master cylinder here soon and replace that. I have always been leery of doing flushes. I have always been told that flushes just disturb sediment that isnt bothering anything at the moment. Is just replacing the fluid on the radiator and differential sufficient?
 
inverted25 said:
Rotors have been replaced each time I did the brakes. I have replaced all four brake hoses as well after the locked caliper. I have changed out the brake fluid at each pad change as well. I do the work myself so I always spend the extra time to change the fluid. I did just notice a small leak where the master cylinder enters the brake booster. I think that seal has gone bad. Planning to order a new master cylinder here soon and replace that. I have always been leery of doing flushes. I have always been told that flushes just disturb sediment that isnt bothering anything at the moment. Is just replacing the fluid on the radiator and differential sufficient?
Click to expand...
Let me separate the two. I do not mean a power flush and would never do a power flush for my vehicles. However, There are some who say it damages and forces particles into blocking the lines and others who say it forces everything out. You can decide what's best for you.

In the old days, a flush was drain and replace... And I still use that term to refer to a non-power flush
For the radiator, I've used flush cleaner then a water rinse til clear then a complete fill. Since the Mazda fluid is premixed, do a cleaner then a water flush then a Mazda coolant flush then a Mazda coolant fill. That should make sure you have the 55/45 concentration in there.

I usually wait until a water pump goes before replace. But if you are being proactive, you could replace the pump and thermostat as well.
 
If the tranny fluid hasn't been replaced in the past I wouldn't do it.
 
wlong01 said:
If the tranny fluid hasn't been replaced in the past I wouldn't do it.
Click to expand...
Good catch Wlong! A full flush and pan drop might make it slip.

I've always changed my fluid out at approx. 60-80,000 mile intervals and my tranny's lasted.

However, a half fluid change might be ok to at least get some lubrication in there.

I've done half changes on friends/relatives high mileage vehicle(who neglected maintenance)...and the tranny's ran fine for many years after, no slipping and good pickup.
 
inverted25 said:
I have a 2014 CX-5 with 145,000 miles. I noticed the tires were getting wore unevenly with the inside of the tires wearing down much faster than the outside. I decided to replace the front strut/coil assemblies and the rear shocks. Once I got working on the car I ended up having to replace the inner and outer tie rods on the front, the sway bar links front and back and the front lower control arms. I had two sway bar links that had broken off and were just hanging by one side. The ball joint on the passenger front had excess play in it so I replaced both lower control arms.

I am about to change the spark plugs and do a drain and fill on the transmission with a filter replacement. Is there anything else that I should be addressing at these miles.

The only things done besides normal maintenance on this car has been replacing the rear brake calipers due to a locked up caliper around 90,000 miles. I also had to replace a switch in the shifter control column awhile back.
Click to expand...
I replied to your other post before I saw this one. Looks like you're already addressing some of the things I mentioned and others mentioning additional items. And there is no power steering fluid to be flushed.
 
Jack Rabbit said:
Good catch Wlong! A full flush and pan drop might make it slip.

I've always changed my fluid out at approx. 60-80,000 mile intervals and my tranny's lasted.

However, a half fluid change might be ok to at least get some lubrication in there.

I've done half changes on friends/relatives high mileage vehicle(who neglected maintenance)...and the tranny's ran fine for many years after, no slipping and good pickup.
Click to expand...
So is the consensus to leave it alone if it’s never been touched until now. Only planning to keep the car another 15-20k miles
 
How's the AC? That's the only other thing I would consider, seems like everyone else's suggestions have your sorted!
 
Absolutely do change the filter and fluid.

I had the same problem with seized rear parking brake at around 230-240k KM. Make sure your calipers are well oiled all around next time you do a brake service.

I have a 2015 Mazda 6 with 290,000km on it. I have detailed entire service history in this thread. You will likely find it of use:

2015 Mazda6 (2.5L Skyactiv, 6 Speed Auto) Update at 284,000KM

Hi all, This Mazda has been in my family since new. I have acquired it 3 months ago after my dad upgraded to a 2023 Camry. As the title suggests, the car has over 284,000KM on it, maybe 60% city driving. The car has an extensive maintenance history. The only thing which hasn't been done yet...
mazdas247.com mazdas247.com
 
inverted25 said:
Belts look to be in good shape. No abnormal wear that I can see
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The way I look at it is I would consider 300k miles to be fully used up, got my money's worth out of a car. I don't expect the belts to last that long so may as well just replace them at 150k since they're not that expensive or hard to change and since a failure will leave me (or my family) DRT (dead right there) maybe in a bad spot.

I see farther down you only plan to keep another 15-20k miles so in that case, let it ride 😉
 
I see farther down you only plan to keep another 15-20k miles so in that case, let it ride 😉

In this case I'd let the tranny fluid ride also, I wouldn't even test it, just check the level and make sure there's enough.
 
wlong01 said:
I see farther down you only plan to keep another 15-20k miles so in that case, let it ride 😉

In this case I'd let the tranny fluid ride also, I wouldn't even test it, just check the level and make sure there's enough.
Click to expand...
I would most certainly NOT. That pan needs to be dropped urgently, and as soon as possible.
 
The power steering is ELECTRIC!

You are past due for replacing the coolant, the trans fluid, and transfer case/rear axle, if AWD. Check your owner's manual (Mazda has them online) for other stuff. I like the idea of flushing the brake fluid every few years (10?) even though the owner's manual doesn't call for it. .
 
wlong01 said:
Some old wives tales ring true. I'd get the fluid tested, go from there.
Click to expand...
Not this time. It's a complete fallacy that has been debunked time and again over the last 20 years.

Change the ATF and filter. That said, ONLY USE MAZDA ATF!!! Using the wrong fluid is bad, bad, bad. The CX-5 uses Type FZ, which is blue not red. (But confirm FZ in your personal owner's manual just to triple check)
 
theblooms said:
Not this time. It's a complete fallacy that has been debunked time and again over the last 20 years.

Change the ATF and filter. That said, ONLY USE MAZDA ATF!!! Using the wrong fluid is bad, bad, bad. The CX-5 uses Type FZ, which is blue not red. (But confirm this in your personal owner's manual)
Click to expand...
I wouldn't take the chance since he's talking about unloading it within 20,000 miles.
 
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