Suspension/Camber Questions

Flash5

Corners > Straight Lines
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2002 Mazda P5
Tried posting this in the suspension section but didn't get a response.

I am getting close to dropping the p5 and just have some quick question for you suspension gurus. Hopefully by the end of this i won't come off as too much of a noob and get my moderator status taken away

First off I want to make sure I have everything set to go when I install the springs, struts and rear sway bar.

Things i have/am buying soon:
-Eibach Pro-Kit
-Tokico Blues
-Progress rear sway bar
-Front and rear AWR endlinks

Here is where I need some advice. What else will I need? I believe i need to cut the bump stops like two notches? What else do I need to take off the stock suspension? Anything else I should look out for in the install.


My next set of questions involves camber. I want to run some negative camber. Now to do this, do I need to buy camber bolts or some other camber items or would the alignment shop be able to set the camber I want? How much camber would be good to run front and back?

Thanks for any help you guys/gals can give! I will be posting pics when it is all said and done.
 
Mounts mounts mounts. Replace mounts when you do struts or you'll probably regret it.

Camber wise I'm not sure what's good on this car but I guess it depends on driving style, unless you're gonna autox or something extreme I don't think a lot would be worth the tire wear. The shop should be bale to do enough negative camber for you though.
 
my mounts are in good shape, my mechanic checks them for me every time i bring it in, plus i fear the idea of touching the rear mount
 
my mounts are in good shape, my mechanic checks them for me every time i bring it in, plus i fear the idea of touching the rear mount

Just a forewarning is all.
I know a lot of the times when you do new struts the mounts make noise, besides, when you take it all apart you're right there anyways...it's like changing both belts at once, ya know? Same theory.
 
thanks for the advice, bump for some more, anyone else have to replace their mounts?
 
I have the exact setup (besides AWR endlinks) that your looking to do. I never replaced my mounts, when I installed everything.

The only noise i heard was a couple months later...my endlink was loose...so it clunked a bit. But, tighting it fixed that. Simple.

If your interested Flash5, Ill be switching out my pro-kit in about a week or so, cuz i want to go quite a bit lower. Let me know...and ill be happy to give u pics.
 
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May i ask though...what makes you want to switch out your endlinks for AWRs?
 
i actually already have a pro kit! the reason i am switching out endlinks is because from what I have read the stock endlinks twist the sway bar after you drop the ride height.
 
On the progress sway bar, you will be fine with your stock endlinks. If u havent ever taken them off...its a good possibility they can be rusted on completely. So, you might need new ones.

They cost approximately $50/pair give or take a few bucks from www.onlinemazdaparts.com or if you find them used its can cost usually $25-35.

i12drivemyMP5 also can vouch for just using stock endlinks as well.
Heres a random thread a found...hope that helps with your decision.http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123618584
 
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hmm thanks ill check it out tomorrow, my guess is that they will be rusty though.
 
I just did the full Tokico setup this past weekend and all 4 end links had to be cut off. Worst part of the install by far! That and snapping a caliper bolt in half..
 
Yes, I'm still running the Progress rr sway with stock endlinks. I don't live where roads are salted in winter & my car was bought brand new so had no issues with endlinks nor the position of the new sway bar. Running Tokico Illuminas/espelir springs, AWR trailing links & mx-6 rr stb. Nothing done up front except strut/springs. Car is very balanced. I did cut my bumpstops but wish I had just went with the MSP ones. They are already shortened & made of better material. Worth the 50.00 or so for the set IMO but no real issues with the cut ones. I don't see the need for any trick camber stuff unless very frequent track car. There isn't that much to be gained for mostly street driving & the added wear on the tires would suck IMO. Maybe if you lowered the thing a whole bunch with some rim/tire combo you couldn't live without to tuck past fender lip, maybe but other than that I would just go with stock alignment settings. The thing will corner like crazy anyway. Since I had no issues with endlinks, I'm gonna go with the removal of all the rear interior trim panels as being the pain in the ass thing about the install & getting holes cut in them right the first time for the rr stb. Oh yeah, Autozone for the free spring compressor rental for disassembly of struts. Won't need it for reassembly, just push the strut hat down & start nut.
 
from what i have read camber won't affect tire wear too much if the toe is correct. the other reason outside of the handling benefits for the camber would be to help with my rear tires rubbing, i have the, rolled but i just need a wee bit more so they will clear.

yea i heard the panels were a pita to get off and i am expecting my endlinks to be rusted...damn northern winters!
 
The real panels aren't too bad to get off, just a lot of little clip things holding them on.
I didn't replace my strut mounts when I did my springs in excess of 50K ago. I'm nearing 97K and the only clunking I've ever had was a loose endlink. Post pics when you're done.
 
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