I just had the SURE RMM installed this past Friday and wish I had it installed when i first purchased the Speed. I'm impressed with how a simple mod would make such a difference in feel, pull and changing gears. Changes the dynamic of the car for the better. It does idle a little harder in low RPM, but it's quickly overlooked. I can only speak to this specific mount and would purchase other SURE products from SU. Good product; now get me my SURE TMIC.
SURE RMM vs TRZ
- Thread starter LionofZion
- Start date
so if sure and su its same thing.. do u think there is big difference between products ?? what about side mounts ?SU Driver Side (Transmission) Mount & Passenger Side (Cylinder Head) Mount ??? is it worth paying ? is it helping a lot ? what it helps with ? is it recommend to have it ?
sorry for so many questions.. dont want to waste money and im new in mazdas community
1 week ago i just but 2008 white ms3 GT/w navigation with 13,500 miles on it. i just deleted my rear resonator for now (still choosing catback), looking for more mods !!
sorry for so many questions.. dont want to waste money and im new in mazdas community
1 week ago i just but 2008 white ms3 GT/w navigation with 13,500 miles on it. i just deleted my rear resonator for now (still choosing catback), looking for more mods !!^ Man, that's hard to read there bro. I think just about all your questions would be answered by using the "search" function here and then come back with follow-up.
Sounds like you are heading off in the wrong direction with your mods. The rear motor mount is a typical early mod and a good one. But all that other stuff would come very much later, Iif ever, MHO, long after you have addressed the more basic and usual upgrades.
[Sorry mods for taking us off topic for a moment]
Short answer. Just get a rear motor mount.
Longer answer: If your car has the stock intake you need good SRI or CAI intake (search). You'll want to consider a possible tuning option such at Hypertech or Cobb AP, (search) and you'll want to look at addressing where the actual restriction is in your exhaust - the downpipe and race pipe and NOT the catback (search)
The stock CBE flows well in excess of the maximum flow rate of the stock turbo on this car. It will keep up with just about every mod you throw at this car short of a bigger turbo. A change in CBE is only going to change the sound.
And for gosh sakes, before you start modding, get some way to monitor your boost level and if possible air to fuel ratios and fuel pressure before you get into trouble and add your name to the blown engine list. At least a boost gauge. Maybe Dash Hawk or other scan tool and learn how to use it.
And one of my personal peeves: Don't go out and buy a big flashy BOV and run vent to atmosphere. This is a MAF sensor controlled engine. Farting air to atmosphere just screws up the tuning and usually makes the engine run roughly. That air released by the valve has already been metered and the fuel is expecting to mix with it. It needs to go back into the intake at a location behind (benind) MAF sensor. You must run recirc. I just can't make the stock bpv leak or malfunction in any way, not even at over 53,000 very aggressively driven miles. It flat works.
Search is your friend. Do some reading. Welcome to the forum. You're gonna love your little hot wagon. Get the SURE mount and be done with that part of your mods.
Sounds like you are heading off in the wrong direction with your mods. The rear motor mount is a typical early mod and a good one. But all that other stuff would come very much later, Iif ever, MHO, long after you have addressed the more basic and usual upgrades.
[Sorry mods for taking us off topic for a moment]
Short answer. Just get a rear motor mount.
Longer answer: If your car has the stock intake you need good SRI or CAI intake (search). You'll want to consider a possible tuning option such at Hypertech or Cobb AP, (search) and you'll want to look at addressing where the actual restriction is in your exhaust - the downpipe and race pipe and NOT the catback (search)
The stock CBE flows well in excess of the maximum flow rate of the stock turbo on this car. It will keep up with just about every mod you throw at this car short of a bigger turbo. A change in CBE is only going to change the sound.
And for gosh sakes, before you start modding, get some way to monitor your boost level and if possible air to fuel ratios and fuel pressure before you get into trouble and add your name to the blown engine list. At least a boost gauge. Maybe Dash Hawk or other scan tool and learn how to use it.
And one of my personal peeves: Don't go out and buy a big flashy BOV and run vent to atmosphere. This is a MAF sensor controlled engine. Farting air to atmosphere just screws up the tuning and usually makes the engine run roughly. That air released by the valve has already been metered and the fuel is expecting to mix with it. It needs to go back into the intake at a location behind (benind) MAF sensor. You must run recirc. I just can't make the stock bpv leak or malfunction in any way, not even at over 53,000 very aggressively driven miles. It flat works.
Search is your friend. Do some reading. Welcome to the forum. You're gonna love your little hot wagon. Get the SURE mount and be done with that part of your mods.
Last edited:
ms3Greg - what MSMS3 said.
As for BOV, everytime I read about VTA BOV's I think about the Youtube vids where the guys mounted duck calls on them. Freakin' hillarious and I thought it was my own, original idea!
The stock unit is fine as is the factory cat back. I do find it surprising the clowns on HP TV got about 10hp gain out of an MS3 putting nothing but a cat back on it before they installed a HT. If you haven't seen the vid, it's pretty cool. They also install a CAI and proceed to abuse the s*** out of the car afterwards. Drop clutch burnouts and spinning it through second gear repeatedly.
As for BOV, everytime I read about VTA BOV's I think about the Youtube vids where the guys mounted duck calls on them. Freakin' hillarious and I thought it was my own, original idea!
The stock unit is fine as is the factory cat back. I do find it surprising the clowns on HP TV got about 10hp gain out of an MS3 putting nothing but a cat back on it before they installed a HT. If you haven't seen the vid, it's pretty cool. They also install a CAI and proceed to abuse the s*** out of the car afterwards. Drop clutch burnouts and spinning it through second gear repeatedly.
TRZ is definitely utilitarian in design & fuction. It doesn't come with much creature comfort, if at all, but it does what it is supposed to do exceedingly well. I was willing to accept that, and it was a good price. I have not yet had issues with PG/Ken and have dealt with them multiple times; so I'm still liking them.
I have not run the SURE piece, but they are said to be quality, for now. If you are willing to spend the extra money for, what I'm guessing will be, a more comfortable ride; go for it. But like I said. TRZ is cheap, rugged (too much for some), & worry free for me.
I have not run the SURE piece, but they are said to be quality, for now. If you are willing to spend the extra money for, what I'm guessing will be, a more comfortable ride; go for it. But like I said. TRZ is cheap, rugged (too much for some), & worry free for me.
twist_the_wrist
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