strange Idle issue???

[43975]

My car was running great right up to the Split Second install.
Directly after the install I had a CEL 1. Lean in bank one and 2. Bad MAF
I also began having a rough idle and would try to die at idle reving the motor would prevent that. I cleaned the MAF, and reset the CEL. I even got to the point that I would just keep a little pressure on the pedal while stopped so it wouldn't bog and die. After some research on here I cleaned the EGR without any improvement.
So I took the EGR out again and cleaned it even better, then repeated cleaning it, and things only got slightly better. I still have the rough idle and it still stumbles but now it saves itself from dying, by the car reving itself. Right before the car starts to stumble my vac drops to 17 then when the car saves itself the vac stays at 18-19, when normally it sits at 21??
Is this just a vac leak causing my issues. I'm thinking its a bad MAF but I haven't gotten that CEL again. What the hell is going on with my car???

 

[Metallic36]

You haven't gotten the P0134 yet have you? For some reason the different maps I tried made my idle change. One would make it rev up and down, one would keep it even. People say the AFC doesn't affect idle, but I dunno about that. My idle is usually at -60ish. Do you have your AFC vacuum line going to a direct source or through a boost controller?

 

[43975]

I did get that CEL orginally Lean bank 1 and the other was Bad MAF. I forgot the actual codes but that's what they meant. After I reset and cleaned the MAF. I got the Lean in bank one one other time. In which I reset it again. I haven't gotten that or any other CEL again. The split second vac line is T'd into the line that feeds the WGA and BOV. which is the stock location. I'm going to be making a Vac block on the Brake booster line and giving the BOV, WGA, SS and Boost gauge there own ports on the Block tomarrow. That should eliminate any chance that it's a Vac issue. No boost controller. Boost is controlled via my Forge WGA

 

[43975]

anyone else have an idea here??
What does a bad MAF act like??
Will I have issues while in boost since aswell if the MAF was bad

 

[Metallic36]

I would think that if the MAF is going bad you'd have hellacious fuel cut, and if it's for sure bad, you won't be able to rev over 2000-2500 rpms without it jerking the crap out of you. Have you tried unplugging it and seeing how it acts? I would pick up a spare just to try out, that way you have it if you ever need it, and you can then see if that's your problem.

anyone else have an idea here??
What does a bad MAF act like??
Will I have issues while in boost since aswell if the MAF was bad

 

[43975]

I haven't been able to find one used....I'm going to call a Dealer on monday to see what they go for from them. Is the MAF the same as any other Protege, or the MAF for the MSP calibrated differently?

 

[2003speeds]

Why are you going through all of this trouble replacing and cleaning things that worked fine BEFORE the SS AFC install? Thats your problem, you need to find out what is causing this through the SS AFC or the vaccume line you installed to it. Mine does the same thing sometimes, but It runs fine after it corrects itself for about 1 minute. I am going to look into this too, but I bet you it has something to do with the SS AFC settings.

 

[43975]

I was thinking the same thing....But not only was the Split second installed by a super competent person, but it was rechecked by another one. I'm lucky to have some real knowledgable MSP guys local.
Both groups think it's the EGR. Looks like I'll order an EGR and see what gives.
The new question is do I get the canadian model or US one.
I here the one from Canada is better

 

[2003speeds]

But dude, the EGR worked just fine before, why would you need to replace it? The SS AFC is what is casuing the idle issue and it only lasts for 1 minute until it corrects itself. If your EGR was bad, you would get bad idle issues24/7.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

yeah i bet its not your maf i replaced mine and it still dident fix the idle issue and i dont even have an afc if you are planing on getting a new maf it has to be for the mazdaspeed and it costs around 250.00 canadian

 

[Matrix]

yeah i bet its not your maf i replaced mine and it still dident fix the idle issue and i dont even have an afc if you are planing on getting a new maf it has to be for the mazdaspeed and it costs around 250.00 canadian

I don't think there is a MSP-specific MAF. My understandig is that any MAF from a 2002-2003 2.0L FS-DE shoulld work fine...

 

[ghaze24]

yeah i bet its not your maf i replaced mine and it still dident fix the idle issue and i dont even have an afc if you are planing on getting a new maf it has to be for the mazdaspeed and it costs around 250.00 canadian

I don't think there is a MSP-specific MAF. My understandig is that any MAF from a 2002-2003 2.0L FS-DE shoulld work fine...

I just put a regular 2.0 protege maf in my msp to rule out having a bad maf, works fine, no issues so far.

 

[HondaEat-R]

Why are you going through all of this trouble replacing and cleaning things that worked fine BEFORE the SS AFC install? Thats your problem, you need to find out what is causing this through the SS AFC or the vaccume line you installed to it. Mine does the same thing sometimes, but It runs fine after it corrects itself for about 1 minute. I am going to look into this too, but I bet you it has something to do with the SS AFC settings.

X2. Look at your settings, and re-trace your wiring of the AFC. This is obviously related to the AFC install, so focus your energy there.

 

[justanothermp5]

mine has been having this weird problem lately on warm-ish start ups, it'll start and then the idle will just drop to like 3-400 and sound like its about to die, then it'll just rev up to like 2500 once by itself and then its okay after a few seconds
not sure what it is, it actually stalled out the other day instead of revving up
when i try to rev by stepping on the gas it'll sound like its sputtering or something, it hasnt done it lately but like last week it happened almost everytime

 

[kammokid]

yep, same problem here justanothermp5, i have no mods, i have replaced the egr, and still get the wonky idle on occaision, check light will flash, the p5 will shake so bad at the stop light, i swear people must think i have a nervous problem! the revs come back and eventually the check engine light will go solid. i have changed plugs, fuel pump prior to this, so only thing else the other forums are pointing at are coils?

 

[Installshield 2]

^^haha this thread is 2.5 years old...

if you're having idle problems...its usually 3 things...either the EGR is stuck open, the IAC is also stuck or dying...or the AAS screw is too tight given your mods...

diagnos it by adjusting the AAS screw, which is the small philips head screw, on the firewall side of the IAC...on top of the throttle body...backing it out will let more by-pass air around the IAC...closing it does the opposite...without messing with jumping the diagnostics port, this won't change idle speed...but will change the IAC's behavior and can smooth out the idle...i had the same issue after an aftermarket cam install, backing the screw out about 1.5 turns 100% fixed mine...

if this has no effect on a nearly stalling or low idle on throttle lift...its probably a malfunctioning IAC or stuck EGR...and DO NOT confuse the AAS screw with the throttle stop bolt, which is under the throttle linkage...that will adjust TPS neutral settings and shouldn't be touched...

 

[Spiced MSP]

^^haha this thread is 2.5 years old...

plus the member mentioned in that response is banned so it's not like he would get a response back

 

[kammokid]

Thanks Installshield2, looks like I should be concentrating on the IAC since the EGR is brand new (and installing the new egr made no difference)
Is the hose (that is connected to the IAC) for coolant?

 

[YlwMSP]

It sounds really stupid, but when I first installed my SSAFC, I kept getting the CEL for MAF and bank 1 being too lean. Turns out that I had to actually load the stock super map onto the SSAFC before it worked properly. Even though it says that the SSAFC comes loaded with the map on it already. I bought mine brand new, so it hadn't been installed on a car before.

 

[Installshield 2]

Thanks Installshield2, looks like I should be concentrating on the IAC since the EGR is brand new (and installing the new egr made no difference)
Is the hose (that is connected to the IAC) for coolant?

View attachment 201148

I've never taken mine apart (the iac, i mean) so i'm not sure exactly...but no, i don't think that is for coolant...its either the IAC's actual feed line (where the air that it lets by the plate re-enters the intake manifold via that tube)...

but...does your engine idle high from a cold start?...Our engines have a direct cable linkage...i.e. the throttle body plate is NOT moving unless you put your foot on the pedal...and if you start the car after its sat for a while...and it idles around 1500 rpm for a few seconds and slowly falls...your IAC is working perfectly fine...the IAC is the only thing that can adjust idle at different operating temps...

if you cold start and it just sits at 750 rpm or so, and tries to stall (as the oil will be extremely heavy until thoroughly heated, the whole reason for a high cold idle to begin with)...then you may have an IAC problem...

mess with that screw i talked about earlier before you go replacing parts...it may solve your problem...