Spin-on filter conversion w oil cooler?

[Overspent]

I've noticed some happy people who have added the Mazda OEM oil filter conversion kit so that they can use a spin-on filter with their MS3, but several parts places have told me the kit cannot be used with the 2.3L with turbo because the turbo engine has an oil cooler connected to the upper housing for the stock filter (which the replacement kit housing, they tell me, will not accept).

So how did you happy people get so happy? Are you just drinking alot, or is there a solution? Thanks -

 

[RaiderMS3]

This is what I got. Choose 2.3 liter with turbo.
http://protegegarage.com/1210-product-1210.html

I got happy because Ken is awesome. PG ftw

 

[Overspent]

Thanks Flyingm. I can't quite yet follow the directions on the PG site (there is no "menu" at the point you actually select the kit that lists the specific parts in that particular kit, so I don't yet see a simple way to match what I'm ordering against the parts PG says I should make sure are there).

But I now know there is definitely a kit made for my car, and where to get it. I'll work w PG to get the right one.

For those reading who've been to a dozen parts sites and forums w/o firm resolution to this question, here's what the PG site from Flyingm's link states:

"The mounting bracket is specifically designed to adapt to the oil coolers for these vehicles.
Kit includes the following parts;

- Filter Mounting Bracket
- New OEM Oil Filter - the competition does not include one!
- New Block to Bracket Gasket"

Maybe I'm just not seeing something obvious on the PG site (seems to happen to me a lot). If I discover anything helpful as I actually order from PG, I'll be sure to pass it on.

 

[RaiderMS3]

You are making it harder on yourself than you need to. If you select turbo, you get the right kit. You unbolt the cooler connection at the top with a wrench, remove the 4 bolts that hold the canister housing to the block. basically out it comes.

You have an MS3, right? If so, select "Turbo".

Not sure what exactly you are looking for.

 

[MikeHTally]

A stubby ratcheting box-end will get the oil cooler bolt off. Be careful removing the oil pressure switch.

 

[RaiderMS3]

Yup, the sensor is fragile. Gentle is best.

 

[Overspent]

You are making it harder on yourself than you need to. If you select turbo, you get the right kit. You unbolt the cooler connection at the top with a wrench, remove the 4 bolts that hold the canister housing to the block. basically out it comes.

You have an MS3, right? If so, select "Turbo".

Not sure what exactly you are looking for.

Making it harder is what I do best Yes, I'm driving a 09 MS3, and I'll take your word for the kit- if they send the wrong one, I'll do-over.

Thanks also, guys, for the tips on the wrenches and pressure switch. It looked like a big honkin' bolt on the pressure switch, biggr than anything I have in metric, and if I need to be gentle, I'm not sure I want to use a crescent (or even if I have room to). Does the electric line to the switch have a plug I can disconnect rather than removing the bolt with the switch itself?

Also, from the one look I had at things it didn't seem that the water lines to the oil cooler were any problem. Can anyone confirm that they don't need to be disconnected and plugged for this procedure?

Hmm... making it hard again... I haven't forgotten trial-and-error entirely, but its been years since I worked on a car and I want to avoid the worst of the errors.

Thanks for the help.

 

[DarkAngel]

Dang once the cars warranty is up I am so adding one. I dont want to touch it in fear they want to void the warranty.

 

[RaiderMS3]

Well, make sure the engine is cold, and don't muscle the bolts to the block, they can snap.

 

[MikeHTally]

... Thanks also, guys, for the tips on the wrenches and pressure switch. It looked like a big honkin' bolt on the pressure switch, biggr than anything I have in metric, and if I need to be gentle, I'm not sure I want to use a crescent (or even if I have room to). Does the electric line to the switch have a plug I can disconnect rather than removing the bolt with the switch itself?

Also, from the one look I had at things it didn't seem that the water lines to the oil cooler were any problem. Can anyone confirm that they don't need to be disconnected and plugged for this procedure ...

As I recall, that bolt is only 13mm or 15mm. The problem is limited space. If you get a set of stubby ratcheting box-end wrenches, it's fairly easy to take off. Go in from underneath and take the bolt loose blind.

No - do not disconnect those hoses.

I used groove-joint pliers to take the pressure switch off. The switch does have an electrical connector. Unplug it and gently twist the sensor out. I can't remember if I put anything on those threads when I put the sensor back in.

Someone posted the torque specs for remounting the platform to the block, but I don't remember what they are. "Snug plus half a turn" should do it.

I left the belly pan off for a few days to make it easier to check for and deal with leaks.

DarkAngel, if I'd waited for the warranty to expire, it would take almost ten years. I did my conversion at 4,500 miles. When the dealer replaced my A/C compressor last January, they didn't say anything about the conversion and I have a sandwich connector as well as a B3000 truck filter on mine. No way could they have missed it.

 

[DarkAngel]

Well ok. But why spend my money to make it easier for them if they didn't do this in the first place. I dont pay for my oil changes. Has maintenance for life.

 

[MikeHTally]

Good point, I guess. I can't stand the thought of an all-day oil change, even if it was covered by some sort of pre-paid thing.

 

[Overspent]

I'm converted !

Well, SU's free shipping got my kit here in 2 days (weird, tho- they just threw the pieces into the box with heavy paper baffling. I'm glad the gasket didn't get caught on anything).

A bit of an adventure: each of the 10 mm adapter bolts took a different combination of ratchet drive/extension/socket, the 15mm bolt on top of the oil cooler was frozen, and I cut the s*** outta my thumb when I slipped off the stubby ratcheting box.

Still, the noob triumphed with the help of you forum friends. I dug out an old crappy 15mm that happened to be shorter than a standard combo wrench- it gave me just enough torque (with some WD40) to unfreeze the 15 mm, and the stubby did the rest of that bolt. The upper-two adapter bolts seemed easier to deal with using a 1/4-inch ratchet drive with its skinny extension piece that allowed the head of the ratchet to clear the oil cooler.

I was a little nervous about re-using the gaskets at the bottom of the oil cooler, but no one mentioned installing new ones, and the oil cooler had a system of two gaskets: one round, complicated o-ring type and, outside of that, a flat rubber one like you get on most oil filters.

It all looks bone-dry after a quick drive around town. Anyone have leaks appear later, like after a hard highway trip?

It took me almost 4 hours to complete, but I spent 1 hour f-ing around with the 15mm bolt and determining that my new qwik-drain plug came frozen shut, inoperable. Still, it was worth it: this was my first self-change of oil on this car, and whoever designed the cartidge filter system needs more therapy. (Sorry, I know some people love 'em, but oil comes out at so many points in the process that it's hard for me to believe the environment is any better-off with cartridge systems. Their filters themselves surely carry less oil into the landfill, but the six shop towels you need to clean-up carry it in anyway. I'm sure you spill less after a few changes). I don't know why the places that accept used oil don't also accept the used filters- wouldn't that be the better way to go?

Anyway, thanks to everyone for your help. I would not have attempted this w/o it.