Hello I've used this website multiple times when troubleshooting my P5. For information on the car it's a 2003 MP5 130000 miles, automatic transmission. I've replaced the spark plugs, ignition coil packs, spark plug wires, fuel injectors all around 128000 miles when I had issues with misfires before, fixed the misfires and car ran great for a couple weeks. I've personally cleaned the intake manifold, EGR valve, MAF sensor, CAI filter by hand and can say they also improved the idle issues. Now at this point I am stumped I spent the last 2 days inspecting and cleaning the same parts I just mention and am at a loss for words on what to do. On cold start up it sits at a low idle of 1500 when it normally used to start at 3000 rpm on cold. When warm on startup it hits 1000 rpm and drops to 200 rpm goes back up to 1000 then drops to 100 almost stalling the sits at 900 and slowly falls to 500. The car at that low idle feels like misfires but no CEL, if I give it gas when warmed up it will lose power intermittently. If anyone can help I would appreciate it!
Rough Idle, Loss of Power and No CEL (2003 Protege5) - Solved!
- Thread starter TempestZill
- Start date
Keep in mind that when the battery is disconnected, the IAC needs to relearn how to idle the car.
It takes about 100 miles if driving
mazdas247.com
Your IAC may need to be cleaned or replaced.
It takes about 100 miles if driving
P5 rough idle... Help!
My DD is an awesome automatic P5 with 183k miles, just barely broke in! The car has been great! I drive 62 miles each way to work 4 days a week and it's been a perfect commuter for a long time! Here's the backstory... I've been having a CEL code p0455 for awhile now. (Code is a common EVAP...
Your IAC may need to be cleaned or replaced.
Yea tomorrow I plan on cleaning out the IAC. Hopefully it is just that and once I do clean it I'll give it a good drive around town! Was starting to get worried if it could be something more serious since I was running out of things to check.Keep in mind that when the battery is disconnected, the IAC needs to relearn how to idle the car.
It takes about 100 miles if driving
P5 rough idle... Help!
My DD is an awesome automatic P5 with 183k miles, just barely broke in! The car has been great! I drive 62 miles each way to work 4 days a week and it's been a perfect commuter for a long time! Here's the backstory... I've been having a CEL code p0455 for awhile now. (Code is a common EVAP...
Your IAC may need to be cleaned or replaced.
Make sure that you use a JIS screwdriver on the screws, or you'll most likely strip them.
mazdas247.com
mazdas247.com
Installed new ignition switch today (Protege5)
I just ordered an ignition switch from MazdaSwag. It wasn't much more than the Standard or Beck/Arnley part on RockAuto. Got $2 off shipping using code "SWAG." Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total GP7A-66-151 Ignition Switch $41.36 1 $41.36 Subtotal: $41.36 Estimated...
PSA: Know your screws! JIS vs Phillips (IAC valve, etc...)
I see a lot of threads on here where people are complaining about stripping "phillips head screws" on their cars on stuff like the IAC valve. Well, here's the thing you need to know: Those AREN'T Phillips head screws. Most Japanese cars and motorcycles use JIS screws, which LOOK a lot like a...
Hey PCB so I've been gone for a while due to waiting for the JIS screwdrivers to come in, they took their time and the car for the last 2 days took it's time but honestly fixed itself relatively fast. I can't thank you enough but I seem to have come across another issue and noticed in the forum you commented on someone's page in 2014 (Committed)
Anyways after idle issues were solved the first day I drove around doing Uber Eats to make some cash and after 7 hours of driving the cars gas pedal starts to lose power, idle issues, almost stalls out. The second day the car only rams for 3 hours and had the same issue after driving around perfectly with no issues in the beginning. This time though I stalled out at a light as I was heading home once the idle issues and loss of power started. Right as I got home taking a U-Turn car stalled out a second time. When trying to start the car again instantly stalls out unless I give it gas but if I let go at idle it'll die. If the car is cold again after sitting for a while starts up fine until I drive around for too long.
I believe this could be the cause of the fuel pump going out as when I checked the fuel pump area it seems as if it wasn't touched since 2003. Dust and dirt that were so stuck onto the top that rubbing my finger against wasn't enough to remove the dirt. I had to use a brush to remove any dust and debris. To my surprise I found a plethora of colors once cleaned up and just asking to be sure so I don't buy a random new fuel pump if i did not need one.
I popped a code for my fuel pressure regulator solenoid valve a few years ago, so I removed it and applied 12V directly to the solenoid, and it clicked!
WTF?? Did it again and it clicked and again, and it clicked.
Then I tapped the 12V to it really fast about a dozen times, then it stopped clicking.
WTF?? Did it again and it clicked and again, and it clicked.
Then I tapped the 12V to it really fast about a dozen times, then it stopped clicking.
P5 Won't Start & Rough Idle
Just a quick update: Car has been running perfectly fine for the past seven days. No hints of starting trouble, stalling, or rough idle. Did develop a squeal in the belts. Will replace them this weekend with some OEM ones and maybe do some other troubleshooting while I'm under the hood...
Hey PCB. That is absolutely wild that it could just be that. I tested my Fuel pump today and was running great with the Jumper wire test. So it was a hot day today car was just giving me issues with not even running, started for a couple seconds then died, tried over and over again the longest it stayed on was when I chucked the relay in the fridge for a couple min. Stayed on for 30 seconds then died. I truthfully believe it's just the relay that's bad cause looking at the relay itself, the connectors aren't exactly fried but the connector pins in the fuse box for the relay. 2 of them are for sure dark. I'll order in that fuse relay and see how she runs! Again thank you for all your assistance thus far!
Hey so I decided to try out a new relay and nah, still no good for my car. Turns on but doesn't stay on for long. Stalls out if foot is left off of the gas and will 100% drive with no issues until I get to a stop or rpms are too low. No knocking, no CEL, at one point it did idle for a bit at around 400 rpms and sounded like it was just starving for gas or for air idk which rn. I kept my foot on the gas until it warmed up, no loss of power during the entire time I had my foot on it. Can rev high rpms with no issues, it just can't hold low idle for the life of it. At a lost rn for what to do so gonna do some more research but idk how much more money I can throw at the car for now.
The only other thing that I can think of is the relearning process of the IAC when the battery is disconnected.
My car will almost stall every time the battery is disconnected.
mazdas247.com
It may just take some time to relearn?
My car will almost stall every time the battery is disconnected.
P5 rough idle... Help!
My DD is an awesome automatic P5 with 183k miles, just barely broke in! The car has been great! I drive 62 miles each way to work 4 days a week and it's been a perfect commuter for a long time! Here's the backstory... I've been having a CEL code p0455 for awhile now. (Code is a common EVAP...
It may just take some time to relearn?
Hey so I've been just going through all the things I've done so far rechecked some things. Cleaned MAF, IAC, Air Intake all over again. Tried checking some of my hoses but they look fine so far but still very old. I did notice that on my intake manifold one of the bolt heads busted off. I can still see the screw section on the inside but it's just gone. It may have busted off because of me over tightening it. I still don't have a Lean code suprisingly but still scary for now. Even then after re cleaning the stuff and tightening my CAI better it's been driving decent. Idle issues went away but have really bad issues when taking off from idle. It's like a loss of power for 3 to 6 seconds but once I'm above 10 MPH my throttle will grab and take off. Again no idle issues just a weird loss of power for now. Still driving around town for today and will give another update tonight.
So I have learned I have no idea what's wrong with my car, with all those items replaced or cleaned. Today went like this, some idle issues in the beginning but expected car just had the battery disconnected so everything reset. Idle and power issues for the first 10 to 15 miles. After 15 miles it started to fix itself better still some issues. At mile 40 all loss of power and idle issues are gone awesome! Let the car cool down for a couple hours now back to the road. Mile 60 some idle issues are coming back and at mile 75 Idle issues and loss of power have returned. I am extremely frustrated and confused at this point I have not a single clue as to what's wrong with it.
Okay I am lost even more. I sent the last post when I was 15 miles away from home after the issues were lasting while I was driving around, when they got too bad where the idle was gonna stall the car I decided to go home. Drove all the way home (straight highway) stopped at a couple lights. Bad idle issues and power loss, get home parked expecting the car to stall out. It almost does 1 time. I popped the hood to listen for anything noticable that could happen... nothing. The cars idle issues and loss of power just went away, I sat there 15 min just watching the engine run and nothing. Was idling perfectly. This car is something else
So I have a live data reader (FIXD) to get correct numbers to see how my fuel trim or if anything like that is messed up. And TA-DA my car at idle has a bad 02 sensor #1. At idle it fluctuates around .04 and .07 and when the rpms jump up it forces the voltage to go to .65 and .75. Voltage should stay around .45 and fluctuate up and down. When driving the voltage for the O2 sensor is reading .55 and fluctuates up and down as it should. Don't know why but it just does, crazy that I don't have a CEL but found the issue. 02 sensor #2 runs perfectly at idle and does not give issues!
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
I think I'm having this problem. My car suddenly started running rough at idle and almost stalling out. It happens when cold and warm. It'll be idling at around 800 PRM while warm and will just drop to 100-200 and shake the car. Even on cold startup this morning, it kept dropping from the normal 1500 RPM to around 400.
I plugged in my OBDII scanner and when it was cold, the #1 O2 sensor was reading between 0.1 and 0.07. Are the specs for normal O2 sensor readings in the shop manual somewhere? Haven't looked but I will this evening. I'm tempted to just buy an O2 sensor and replace it but would love to confirm first.
I've also had intermittent CELs for my clogged EGR which has effected idle before but not this badly, and I don't have a CEL right now so I don't think it's that.
