Possible Damaged Caliper - Brakes/Rotors Change By NuBrakes

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Nashville
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2017 CX-5 Touring [Past: 1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE, 2004 Mazda Tribute V6]
Hello. I am trying to figure out what has happened to my vehicle and determine the proper course of action.

On 4/28 I had my rear brakes and rotors replaced in my 2017 Mazda Cx-5 Touring (125k miles, I am the only owner) by NuBrakes. [My prior brake history was a change in pads and rotor resurfacing at the dealer about 2 years ago.] After my new rotors and pads were installed it seemed ok. I drove the vehicle to and from work and around town.

Then, on 5/16 as I drove home I started to smell something not good. When I got home my passenger rear wheel was too hot to touch, the pads were smoking, and the smell was incredible. I thought the rotor was actually glowing. I did not hear any scraping noises. The purple grease on the pads on that side is burnt. The edge of the rotor is white. My left and right sides do not look the same now. I have uploaded a video taken showing the rotor in question.

I have contacted NuBrakes for a quote on caliper replacement - and it’s $950 per side (appx 700 in OEM parts from Mazda and $200 in labor) with $89 for brake fluid replacement. They are coming on 5/20 to look at the vehicle and I have made a warranty claim with them for the previous work.

My issue is trying to determine if this is due to their installation improperly of the brakes and rotors.

In reading I came to handstand that to check to see if the caliper is bad, you would lift the vehicle, remove the wheel, and open the feeder valve to bleed out. Then try and spin the wheel. If it moves, then it’s the brake fluid /hose line that has become compromised.

If it doesn’t move after the release, then it’s probably a seized caliper.

I do not have any idiot / warning lights illuminated on the dash. If I put the car in drive without any acceleration it will move forward.

I’m looking for advice on 1) how to make sure what I’m being told is accurate 2) determine if their service has caused the caliper failure and 3) if that is a standard price for replacement (I cannot do this job myself).

Thank you!

Meg
 

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If your rear disk calipers with EPB on CX-5 have the build date before 9/7/2016, you have inferior calipers which could cause disk dragging or locking-up:

TSB No. 04-001/18: Noise from Rear Brakes Due to Brake Dragging

Mazda has since updated the rear disk calipers to prevent rear disk dragging which would cause uneven wear on pads and even rear brake locking up.

Even though you have a 2017 but it seems your CX-5 is still having similar dragging problem. You can try to replace the rear disk calipers. Yes you can only find Mazda OEM calipers with EPB hence it’s expensive. But it can’t be $700 each and here’s the Mazda OEM parts list and prices (2~3 years ago) to replace rear disk brake calipers based on the TSB:

2016 CX-5
Part NamePart NumberQ’tyMSRPSale Price
CALIPER (R)KAY0-26-61XA1$178.51$127.44
CALIPER (L)KAY0-26-71XA1$181.13$129.31
GASKET9956-21-0004$2.78$2.09
SEAL KIT, MOTORKAY0-26-44Z2$15.10$11.33
PAD SUB SET,KAY0-26-48Z1$80.78$58.64
PLATE, DISCK011-26-251B /
K011-26-251C
2$99.95$72.55

Honestly the NuBrakes may just screwed up thei brake job and forgot to put the rear brake with EPB into Maintenance Mode and damaged the passenger side caliper. This happens quite often but they won’t admit it for sure. Use your wisdom try to have them fix your problem under warranty.

Guide Maintenance Mode for 2016 / 2017 CX-5 electronic brakes

《Guide》How to rebuild 2017 CX-5 Rear brake piston (didn't put into maintenance mode)
 
@pallor ... From your video, the thin little metal clip spring doesn't look right to me. Compare it to the other side and see how that is (since only one side got hot). Even if the other side is like that, it doesn't mean it is proper.

Screenshot_20240518-095938.png


Here is a photo of my 2019 right rear (factory brakes) for comparison ...

Screenshot_20240518-100730.png


To me, if you were not having any brake issues and now you are just after a brake job at "NuBrakes" it seems more likely that something is amiss with the installation work rather than the caliper just happened to fail just now.

Maybe someone here has a nice diagram from the shop manual depicting the proper installation.

** Edit to add ... I'm no master mechanic, just a guy looking at pics and noticing a difference from what I've seen with my Mazdas. It could be fine. **
 
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If your rear disk calipers with EPB on CX-5 have the build date before 9/7/2016, you have inferior calipers which could cause disk dragging or locking-up:

TSB No. 04-001/18: Noise from Rear Brakes Due to Brake Dragging

Mazda has since updated the rear disk calipers to prevent rear disk dragging which would cause uneven wear on pads and even rear brake locking up.

Even though you have a 2017 but it seems your CX-5 is still having similar dragging problem. You can try to replace the rear disk calipers. Yes you can only find Mazda OEM calipers with EPB hence it’s expensive. But it can’t be $700 each and here’s the Mazda OEM parts list and prices (2~3 years ago) to replace rear disk brake calipers based on the TSB:

2016 CX-5
Part NamePart NumberQ’tyMSRPSale Price
CALIPER (R)KAY0-26-61XA1$178.51$127.44
CALIPER (L)KAY0-26-71XA1$181.13$129.31
GASKET9956-21-0004$2.78$2.09
SEAL KIT, MOTORKAY0-26-44Z2$15.10$11.33
PAD SUB SET,KAY0-26-48Z1$80.78$58.64
PLATE, DISCK011-26-251B /
K011-26-251C
2$99.95$72.55

Honestly the NuBrakes may just screwed up thei brake job and forgot to put the rear brake with EPB into Maintenance Mode and damaged the passenger side caliper. This happens quite often but they won’t admit it for sure. Use your wisdom try to have them fix your problem under warranty.

Guide Maintenance Mode for 2016 / 2017 CX-5 electronic brakes

《Guide》How to rebuild 2017 CX-5 Rear brake piston (didn't put into maintenance mode)
Thank you for the breakdown. It gets confusing when I search for the Mazda part needed, because it also requires all the gaskets and things. I will be asking for a part by part breakdown on Monday as well.

I do have a 2017 CX-5 manufactured 7/2017, so it should not have the caliper with the initial drag problems from the manufacturer.

It is eternally frustrating due to the balancing of "if I save $300 by going to another place, I definitely will have to rent a vehicle and that eats up the savings"

After reading a lot of things, I think the dude that came probably did not set the service mode on the vehicle. It is now a quagmire because that's hard to prove as the cause - and I really think they should have to pay for new brakes and rotors and probably the caliper.

I am trying to be as educated as possible on this issue when I speak to the technician on Monday. (And yes I am female, so I am trying to really make sure I speak intelligently on the topic.)

Meg
 
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@pallor ... From your video, the thin little metal clip spring doesn't look right to me. Compare it to the other side and see how that is (since only one side got hot). Even if the other side is like that, it doesn't mean it is proper.

View attachment 328355

Here is a photo of my 2019 right rear (factory brakes) for comparison ...

View attachment 328356

To me, if you were not having any brake issues and now you are just after a brake job at "NuBrakes" it seems more likely that something is amiss with the installation work rather than the caliper just happened to fail just now.

Maybe someone here has a nice diagram from the shop manual depicting the proper installation.

** Edit to add ... I'm no master mechanic, just a guy looking at pics and noticing a difference from what I've seen with my Mazdas. It could be fine. **

Thank you for the response. I went out and photographed both rear brakes for comparison. I have a 2017 (Manufacture date 7/2017) CX-5. Its obvious that one side really got fricking hot.

And that is correct, I had not had any braking issues prior to this installation. Normal wear down of the pads and change out by the dealer along with rotor resurfacing was the only brake maintenance my vehicle required before. I had no issues with that.

I am concerned that if one side of the vehicle is now damaged due to the work by NuBrakes, the other side will be as well.

Meg
 

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Perhaps NuBrakes was clueless about the need to set the rear brakes into service/maintenance mode before starting the work?
That is now my thought as well. This is disheartening as it may be getting very expensive.
 
If your rear disk calipers with EPB on CX-5 have the build date before 9/7/2016, you have inferior calipers which could cause disk dragging or locking-up:

TSB No. 04-001/18: Noise from Rear Brakes Due to Brake Dragging

Mazda has since updated the rear disk calipers to prevent rear disk dragging which would cause uneven wear on pads and even rear brake locking up.

Even though you have a 2017 but it seems your CX-5 is still having similar dragging problem. You can try to replace the rear disk calipers. Yes you can only find Mazda OEM calipers with EPB hence it’s expensive. But it can’t be $700 each and here’s the Mazda OEM parts list and prices (2~3 years ago) to replace rear disk brake calipers based on the TSB:

2016 CX-5
Part NamePart NumberQ’tyMSRPSale Price
CALIPER (R)KAY0-26-61XA1$178.51$127.44
CALIPER (L)KAY0-26-71XA1$181.13$129.31
GASKET9956-21-0004$2.78$2.09
SEAL KIT, MOTORKAY0-26-44Z2$15.10$11.33
PAD SUB SET,KAY0-26-48Z1$80.78$58.64
PLATE, DISCK011-26-251B /
K011-26-251C
2$99.95$72.55

Honestly the NuBrakes may just screwed up thei brake job and forgot to put the rear brake with EPB into Maintenance Mode and damaged the passenger side caliper. This happens quite often but they won’t admit it for sure. Use your wisdom try to have them fix your problem under warranty.

Guide Maintenance Mode for 2016 / 2017 CX-5 electronic brakes

《Guide》How to rebuild 2017 CX-5 Rear brake piston (didn't put into maintenance mode)

I went ahead and put all the parts in the Mazda parts website with the dealership that is closest for the cost. (There is another dealership closer, but they do not come up listed on the parts options)

All the parts for both rear sides - calipers and rotors and pads with tax and shipping total $965.50.

I am currently being quoted for the calipers on one side $932.91.

Meg
 

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I went ahead and put all the parts in the Mazda parts website with the dealership that is closest for the cost. (There is another dealership closer, but they do not come up listed on the parts options)

All the parts for both rear sides - calipers and rotors and pads with tax and shipping total $965.50.

I am currently being quoted for the calipers on one side $932.91.

Meg
Although parts list from the TSB to replace the rear calipers is for 2016 / 2016.5 CX-5, they’re the same parts for your 2017 CX-5. You don’t really need OEM rear brake rotors and pads included in the parts list, but in your case you may want a new set of rotors and pads (pads come with both sides), instead of replacing only one side.

NuBrakes should provide you some warranty like every other chain brake shop. Take your CX-5 back and explain the locking-up situation which isn’t exist before their brake job, and ask them to fix it under warranty. You can also show the MSRP price for a right side Mazda OEM caliper which is only $213.99 and most online sellers sell for under $150. NuBrakes’ cost getting a Mazda OEM caliper is even lower than $150 usually 30% off the MSRP! Most shops charge the MSRP on parts to the customer for 30% profit. If NuBrakes charge $732.17 on parts for a “rear right” (passenger-side) caliper replacement even if it included OEM brake rotor and pads and all necessary seals and gaskets that’s outrageous!
 
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Thank you for the breakdown. It gets confusing when I search for the Mazda part needed, because it also requires all the gaskets and things. I will be asking for a part by part breakdown on Monday as well.

I do have a 2017 CX-5 manufactured 7/2017, so it should not have the caliper with the initial drag problems from the manufacturer.

It is eternally frustrating due to the balancing of "if I save $300 by going to another place, I definitely will have to rent a vehicle and that eats up the savings"

After reading a lot of things, I think the dude that came probably did not set the service mode on the vehicle. It is now a quagmire because that's hard to prove as the cause - and I really think they should have to pay for new brakes and rotors and probably the caliper.

I am trying to be as educated as possible on this issue when I speak to the technician on Monday. (And yes I am female, so I am trying to really make sure I speak intelligently on the topic.)

Meg

Will you be speaking with the tech in person?

If in person, and this may seem a bit chauvinistic, do you have a male friend or family member who is knowledgeable about cars that could go with you, if for nothing more than moral support?

Most of us know how some shops treat women and if you had a man with you that might help your case, maybe. It can't hurt, right?

Again, I'm not trying to be a man pig by making this suggestion, ok? We all know that men are pigs and have to be delt with as such from time to time. ;)
 
@pallor ... From your video, the thin little metal clip spring doesn't look right to me. Compare it to the other side and see how that is (since only one side got hot). Even if the other side is like that, it doesn't mean it is proper.

View attachment 328355

Here is a photo of my 2019 right rear (factory brakes) for comparison ...

View attachment 328356

To me, if you were not having any brake issues and now you are just after a brake job at "NuBrakes" it seems more likely that something is amiss with the installation work rather than the caliper just happened to fail just now.

Maybe someone here has a nice diagram from the shop manual depicting the proper installation.

** Edit to add ... I'm no master mechanic, just a guy looking at pics and noticing a difference from what I've seen with my Mazdas. It could be fine. **
Good eye. It looks to me that the clip is meant to be inside the channel and bias the pad upwards in the picture. The OPs clip is hung up on the outside of the channel which would prevent the pad from sliding in towards the rotor, probably causing it to get cockeyed.

Looks like it was done intentionally by somebody who really didn't know what they were doing.

This is base don just observing the pictures and seeing how the parts must be intended to work, not base don any particular knowledge of the design (although I have successfully done a full 4 corner brake job on my 2nd Gen CX-5), and I'm an engineer.
 
Thank you all for your help.

This morning a different tech came out and inspected the brake job. It appears that the first installment the tech did not pull the pins and clean or lubricate them. So the pins were sticking. The good news is there is no damage to the boot and no debris appeared to be inside. It also appeared to possibly have not been seated correctly.

They inspected and replaced BOTH sides rotors and pads again under warranty. The pins were also pulled and cleaned and lubrictaed. Boots looked good. The tech was very friendly and didn’t mind me asking questions. He showed me the issue and explained it clearly and showed me all the parts. I was not mansplained to at all. He also has been in automotive rebuilding for 30 years. He explained what was happening and why. The other good news is my wheel bearings also seem to be working well.

Thank you all for your help with this. I did learn a lot. I may be asking for a jack and power tools for Christmas at this point!
 
Will you be speaking with the tech in person?

If in person, and this may seem a bit chauvinistic, do you have a male friend or family member who is knowledgeable about cars that could go with you, if for nothing more than moral support?

Most of us know how some shops treat women and if you had a man with you that might help your case, maybe. It can't hurt, right?

Again, I'm not trying to be a man pig by making this suggestion, ok? We all know that men are pigs and have to be delt with as such from time to time. ;)
Thank you! I didn’t take your advice badly. I work in the criminal justice system and I am in contact with an entire range of people. I will agree that there are some places / people that see a female and think that we don’t know anything and may be taken advantage of. I like to learn about systems. I understand my limitations and have no problem paying for others expertise, but I do not like to be fleeced because someone suspects I lack knowledge. Forewarned is forearmed.

✌🏻
 
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Thank you all for your help.

This morning a different tech came out and inspected the brake job. It appears that the first installment the tech did not pull the pins and clean or lubricate them. So the pins were sticking. The good news is there is no damage to the boot and no debris appeared to be inside. It also appeared to possibly have not been seated correctly.

They inspected and replaced BOTH sides rotors and pads again under warranty. The pins were also pulled and cleaned and lubrictaed. Boots looked good. The tech was very friendly and didn’t mind me asking questions. He showed me the issue and explained it clearly and showed me all the parts. I was not mansplained to at all. He also has been in automotive rebuilding for 30 years. He explained what was happening and why. The other good news is my wheel bearings also seem to be working well.

Thank you all for your help with this. I did learn a lot. I may be asking for a jack and power tools for Christmas at this point!
Thanks for the update and glad everything has sorted it out for you. Just wondering If the second tech mentioned anything about important “Maintenance Mode” for servicing rear brakes on CX-5?
 
Thanks for the update and glad everything has sorted it out for you. Just wondering If the second tech mentioned anything about important “Maintenance Mode” for servicing rear brakes on CX-5?
Yes. And I watched him put the car in service mode with instructions and take it out. When he arrived I immediately said I have an EPB and I don’t think the last person put it in service mode.
 
Perhaps NuBrakes was clueless about the need to set the rear brakes into service/maintenance mode before starting the work?
Second this. Getting brakes done at a mom and pop shop or indie shops usually means they don't know the particular process and requirements for Mazda rear brakes with EPB. All too common I'm afraid. Ask the first shop directly what process they used (don't mention maintenance mode when you ask them. Wait and see if they bring it up). Chances are, they messed up.
btw, does your EPB system work now? Have you tried it?
 
Second this. Getting brakes done at a mom and pop shop or indie shops usually means they don't know the particular process and requirements for Mazda rear brakes with EPB. All too common I'm afraid. Ask the first shop directly what process they used (don't mention maintenance mode when you ask them. Wait and see if they bring it up). Chances are, they messed up.
btw, does your EPB system work now? Have you tried it?
The service I used was a brakes only mobile service in the United States. They come to your house and lift and service. It is appealing because you can schedule work on a day and you wont have to rent a vehicle for a week.

The tech that did the first install I believe didn't have the quality control required. The warranty tech (the second guy who came out after I filed a warranty complaint) did a thorough inspection. He found the pins were sticking and relatively stuck. The first tech had not pulled and cleaned and lubricated the pins on the brake job. Also, the pad wasn't seated properly with an issue in the lineup of the notch.

The second tech put the vehicle in service mode (I watched him do it) and I spent the entire time outside with him as he showed me and explained it all. I am very grateful for YouTube, Reddit, and this forum for sharing knowledge so I could understand what was going on. The second tech made it good and both sides rotors and pads were replaced. The bearings are good. And the pins were all pulled, cleaned, and lubricated - no noticeable dirt or grime, just over used and harder lubricant. Boots looked good and supple with no tears.

The vehicle appears to be performing well. I drove it into work today. My EPB seems to also be functioning - I do use it every time I park my vehicle.

Meg
 
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The service I used was a brakes only mobile service in the United States. They come to your house and lift and service. It is appealing because you can schedule work on a day and you wont have to rent a vehicle for a week.

The tech that did the first install I believe didn't have the quality control required. The warranty tech (the second guy who came out after I filed a warranty complaint) did a thorough inspection. He found the pins were sticking and relatively stuck. The first tech had not pulled and cleaned and lubricated the pins on the brake job. Also, the pad wasn't seated properly with an issue in the lineup of the notch.

The second tech put the vehicle in service mode (I watched him do it) and I spent the entire time outside with him as he showed me and explained it all. I am very grateful for YouTube, Reddit, and this forum for sharing knowledge so I could understand what was going on. The second tech made it good and both sides rotors and pads were replaced. The bearings are good. And the pins were all pulled, cleaned, and lubricated - no noticeable dirt or grime, just over used and harder lubricant. Boots looked good and supple with no tears.

The vehicle appears to be performing well. I drove it into work today. My EPB seems to also be functioning - I do use it every time I park my vehicle.

Meg
Thanks for thorough follow up with forum after you got your issue resolved. You didn't leave us hanging :)
 
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