If you want to just replace speakers on existing wiring you can purchase converter plugs to connect to aftermarket units cheaply on eBay etc. Also you will probably need new speaker housings to allow aftermarket mounting to original fixings again quite cheap and available for cx5 models on same websites. I have just re- wired my speakers and fitted JBL GTO 629,s and it was quite awkward as I had to route cables through existing door plugs ( not a good idea if your car is still under warranty - may infringe) Cheers Phil
2017~2024 CX-5 PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter install help
- Thread starter dan801
- Start date
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- 2019 CX-5 GTR
This is an old post by now.. did the install happen?
Factory speaker wire is going to be just fine. As @bTwix eluded to above
to use the factory wiring just tap the signal BEFORE the Bose amp, then feed the aftermarket amplifier signal to the harness AFTER the Bose Amp.
Unplug the center channel speaker and turn off all Bose processing in the factory radio.
Mine did and I must admit the larger screened speaker cable was well worth the effort - now running 4 channel amp - 70W RMS & 300w Sub in spare wheel compartment - mids and highs are are now much more predominant and the JL tilt adjustable tweeters in factory position windscreen side enclosures ( not ideal) - do not spit at you at higher volumes and sub just brings back the lows to a nice full range balance - not too extreme . I ran the sub directly off input side front speaker wiring with rca plugs ( output voltage 3.2/ 3.3V ) ideal for amp and 4 channel off output of amp with 4 way LOC - difference is night and day even at lower volumes much better clarity and a more natural reproduction - fills the vehicle - I did leave factory wiring in place in case I want to remove upgrades at some point ,however , and they would be fairly easy to remove if needed - best thing for me was after upgrade unless closely inspected car looks un modified to anyone looking in the car from outside - Thanks for advice etc to all - Phil UK 
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- 2019 CX-5 GTR
while I can appreciate the effort to upgrade the speaker cable.. for the sake of technical discussion this article goes into the why's you may or may not want to upgrade.
soundcertified.com
I believe the factory wiring is 18 GA. While @Phil J Y did upgrade to a 70 watt RMS amplifier, the short distances and low impendence of aftermarket speakers (4 ohms most times) means nothing with catch fire and melt. Any loss of power (wattage to the speakers) at this level will be negligible.
Some more reading:
www.sweetwater.com
For the readers please note: the discussion is for speaker cable from the amplifier, not power cable to the amplifier -- that is another topic.
RockFord Fosgate actually does the math for you for both power and speaker cable sizes.
What Size Speaker Wire Is Right? Speaker Wire Gauge Calculator & Size Guide - Sound Certified
Wondering what size speaker wire is right? In this article you'll find a speaker wire gauge calculator, speaker wire size charts, and all kinds of helpful info!
soundcertified.com
| Wire Gauge | Length/Power for 8 Ohm Speakers | Length/Power for 4 Ohm Speakers | Length/Power for 2 Ohm Speakers |
|---|---|---|---|
| 20AWG | 3ft: 263W, 16ft: 49W, 25ft, 32W 50ft: 16W | 3ft: 131W, 16ft: 25W, 25ft: 16W, 50ft: 8W | 3ft: 66W, 16ft: 12W, 25ft: 8W, 50ft: 4W |
| 18AWG | 3ft: 418W, 16ft: 78W, 25ft: 50W, 50ft: 25W | 3ft: 209W, 16ft: 39W, 25ft: 25W, 50ft: 13W | 3ft: 104W, 16ft: 20W, 25ft: 13W, 50ft: 6W |
| 16AWG | 3ft: 664W, 16ft: 125W, 25ft: 80W, 50ft: 40W | 3ft: 332W, 16ft: 62W, 25ft: 40W, 50ft: 20W | 3ft: 166W, 16ft: 31W, 25ft: 20W, 50ft: 10W |
| 14AWG | 3ft: 1056W, 16ft: 198W, 25ft: 127W, 50ft: 63W | 3ft: 528W, 16ft: 99W, 25ft: 63W, 50ft: 32W | 3ft: 264W, 16ft: 50W, 25ft: 32W, 50ft: 16W |
| 12AWG | 3ft: 1679W, 16ft: 315W, 25ft: 202W, 50ft: 101W | 3ft: 840W, 16ft: 157W, 25ft: 101W, 50ft: 50W | 3ft: 420W, 16ft: 79W, 25ft: 50W, 50ft: 25W |
I believe the factory wiring is 18 GA. While @Phil J Y did upgrade to a 70 watt RMS amplifier, the short distances and low impendence of aftermarket speakers (4 ohms most times) means nothing with catch fire and melt. Any loss of power (wattage to the speakers) at this level will be negligible.
Some more reading:
Choosing the right wire gauge. - inSync
“How do I choose the right gauge of wire for my speakers?” Selection of the appropriate... Read more »
www.sweetwater.com
For the readers please note: the discussion is for speaker cable from the amplifier, not power cable to the amplifier -- that is another topic.
RockFord Fosgate actually does the math for you for both power and speaker cable sizes.
Thanks for that - I re- wired door speakers in 15 AWG ( British nearest conversion) de oxygenated screened copper cable - this was predominantly to cover my back for the 3 ohm rated speakers I have installed and while I was wiring what the heck 
I think the lack of plugs and connectors has made a difference also as speakers are now direct from new 4 channel set up and the cables are good quality and lengths are all equal….as you say I think I could have got away with 16AWG but I did try on factory wire before taking the plunge but I find with the new wire the mids and lower frequencies sound much more mellow with the new amp and not quite so sharp and punchy and with the sub the mix happens very well although it has taken some adjustment and repositioning of sub + sound proofing the spare department to get it just right ( in the sweet spot) as I am not interested in high sub volumes as much as the overall blend. Incidentally with the re - wire it was all relatively easy from amp under Left passenger seat (UK)until it came to the doors where I had to drill out spare cable routes in the plugs to 3.5mm to thread cables through door boots - but love the car even more now….. and the whole cost UK Sterling all in - £850 + 2 and a half days slow and careful DIY labour - shop wanted £2800 for the same but with cheaper speakers - I do have Scottish blood so I was more than happy-to clip a pound or two from my savings……..
I think the lack of plugs and connectors has made a difference also as speakers are now direct from new 4 channel set up and the cables are good quality and lengths are all equal….as you say I think I could have got away with 16AWG but I did try on factory wire before taking the plunge but I find with the new wire the mids and lower frequencies sound much more mellow with the new amp and not quite so sharp and punchy and with the sub the mix happens very well although it has taken some adjustment and repositioning of sub + sound proofing the spare department to get it just right ( in the sweet spot) as I am not interested in high sub volumes as much as the overall blend. Incidentally with the re - wire it was all relatively easy from amp under Left passenger seat (UK)until it came to the doors where I had to drill out spare cable routes in the plugs to 3.5mm to thread cables through door boots - but love the car even more now….. and the whole cost UK Sterling all in - £850 + 2 and a half days slow and careful DIY labour - shop wanted £2800 for the same but with cheaper speakers - I do have Scottish blood so I was more than happy-to clip a pound or two from my savings……..I have all the wiring diagrams for a '21 Bose CX-5, including pin outs. I added a sub and first made my own t-harness to pig tail off the sub wires in trunk, signal definitely filtered/processed by Bose amp (duh). I then took a gamble and ordered a General Motors Bose harness. 2/3 connectors fit. One 16 pin black, one 16 pin green, and one 8 pin black. Unfortunately the one that doesn't fit is the black 8 pin which carries the sub signal from TAU -> Bose amp. I took another gamble and soldered everything up on the green 16 pin which carries the front and rear speaker signals, and then ran a length of speaker wire (taking care to use the correct pins for + and -, from the Bose input side) to the trunk in the hope that the door speaker signals would be flat pre-bose, which to my ears, is not the case. This leads me to believe one of two things, either A) everything coming out of the head unit or TAU is already processed and rolled off, or B) the door speakers are rolled off from the head unit. I think option A is more likely, but have yet to test the signals coming out of the head unit to confirm this theory. I could t-tap into the sub signal wires pre-bose, but I am trying to avoid cutting any factory wiring at this point since I'm still unsure whether Mazda has the head unit sending out a processed signal.
That PAC worked on my '17 CX5 Touring non-bose, but not on my '23 CE non-bose. The harness is completely different. I bought everything I needed to install a JBL Stadium Basshub spare tire sub (non-amplified) and pre-wired it all waiting for the PAC to come in but had to return most of it. Looks like the best option is to tap into wires pre-TAU at the HU. It's easier to reach the wires there anyway.
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- 22 CX-5 T Sig
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- 21 MX-5 RF GT
i am digging through all these threads as i am getting ready to install an amp/sub. can you confirm if this is the harness you bought? Pac APH-GM02 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)). this is the one i bought for my miata and it fits. also, from my understanding of the mazda 6 'breakdown' thread, the 0920-515A harness (black 16-pin) is the only one of the three connectors at the bose amp that has the pre-processed signals. so according to that thread, your ears are correct.
