P011A on 2014 CX-5 Touring

[rickprins]

I've got a 2014 Touring AWD with 130k miles. Recently the Check Engine light is on and throwing a P011A code. I've done some investigating and know that there is a TSB for this - and I do fall in the VIN range. I have noticed that the heat takes longer to blow hot than before. I have also run some diagnostics using Torque and have the following after a drive - see below. What else can I check before bringing it in so as to eliminate any diagnostic fees from the dealer?

Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 47.843 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 150.8 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = -2.344 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 3.906 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 11.893 psi
Engine RPM = 1,724.25 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 50.952 mph
Timing Advance = 34 °
Intake Air Temperature = 55.4 °F
Mass Air Flow Rate = 17.42 g/s
Throttle Position(Manifold) = 23.529 %
Run time since engine start = 345 s
Fuel Level (From Engine ECU) = 48.627 %
Distance travelled since codes cleared = 13.049 miles
Evap System Vapour Pressure = 55.75 Pa
Barometric pressure (from vehicle) = 14.504 psi
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1,Sensor 1) = 1,263.92 °F
Voltage (Control Module) = 13.915 V
Engine Load(Absolute) = 41.961 %
Commanded Equivalence Ratio(lambda) = 0.988
Relative Throttle Position = 13.725 %
Ambient air temp = 55.4 °F
Absolute Throttle Position B = 22.745 %
Accelerator PedalPosition D = 34.51 %
Accelerator PedalPosition E = 17.255 %

 

[Jmaz]

This might be a place to start. P011A Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1/2 Correlation

 

[AVC]

A quick look at your freeze frame; it looks like the engine is failing to be near operating temp (190F or more) after nearly 6 min running at 55F ambient temp + avg load + avg speed for that time period. Likely thermostat related.

 

[edmaz]

.... What else can I check before bringing it in so as to eliminate any diagnostic fees from the dealer?...

If you're asking about possibly trying to fix the underlying issue yourself, then you can start by following the steps in the TSB. But if you're not going to DIY, then I'm not understanding what you're trying to accomplish.

 

[rickprins]

A quick look at your freeze frame; it looks like the engine is failing to be near operating temp (190F or more) after nearly 6 min running at 55F ambient temp + avg load + avg speed for that time period. Likely thermostat related.

Thanks. I was wondering about that as well.

If you're asking about possibly trying to fix the underlying issue yourself, then you can start by following the steps in the TSB. But if you're not going to DIY, then I'm not understanding what you're trying to accomplish.

Wanting to make sure I've covered all other possibilities before undertaking the heater core.

 

[edmaz]

Wanting to make sure I've covered all other possibilities before undertaking the heater core.

So you're definitely planning on a DIY repair? If so, have you measured the heater in/out hose temps? The TSB says to do it by 'hand', but IMO an IR gun would be a better choice for measuring those temps.

Outside of that, I'm not aware of anyone posting the specifications for the PID of the second ECT sensor. AFIK getting that second ECT requires the M-MDS. Of course you could remove both sensors and test them manually to see if they give the same result. That doesn't test the circuitry, but would at least take care of the sensors.

 

[AVC]

I hadn't paid attention this was a 1/2 correlation code; didn't realize the 2nd ECT at heater core some vehicles--sorry. The freeze frame data is at cruising, so initial assumption is that the both ECT sensors and circuits are good (they passed cold start test). If you are leaning DIY, agree wouldn't pull the heater core unless you PROVED it was clogged and irreversibly so. Feeling the hoses, or an IR gun, or thermocouple at in and out heater hoses will confirm. If the core is partially clogged, I'd run a backwards flush for a while to see if that cleared things up.

 

[erhayes]

My 2014 did that every start of cool weather. I read the code and reset the code and it usually never came back. Sometimes I would need to cancel the code several times before it stayed off. I suggest you get a code reader and cancel the code before the dealer. Ed

 

[rickprins]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I will try the thermostat, and also measure temps with my IR gun. I do have a code reader that I can clear the code with, and I have done that a few times but it keeps coming back.

 

[erhayes]

I agree with checking the temp because it may be a marginal temp sensor.