Next logical upgrade?

[fitbikes07]

Hey everyone.. I am getting ready to to more add-ons for my 06 speed 6 and am a little unsure of which direction to go.

So far I have:

ACT 6puck sprung clutch and ACT flywheel
Corksport SRI/TIP


Thinking about an Access Port, ETS TMIC or PG FMIC kit.. I do not want to do anything that would take more than 5hrs to switch back in case i need to go to a dealer (i.e. downpipe or manifold). There is an awesome and affordable custom exhaust place near me, but I am not sure I really want to mess with the exhaust until the warranty expires since they weld everything in. Also, I do not really feel right about putting a test pipe in and am afraid of more smoking (car already has some smoking at idle, but can't get it to duplicate at dealer).

Would the AP, TMIC, or FMIC be the next logical step? Would a FMIC be over kill, or even necessary, at this point?

Open to all suggestions/recommendations. Will have about 650 to spend MAX.

Thanks

 

[Blendercloud]

The AP is about the best bang for the buck for that kind of money. It's also about the easiest thing to install/uninstall.

 

[ms6acton]

ap 100%. once u get the ap you can get the other ones and then properly tune for the new mods

 

[amilliems6]

stickers?

 

[fitbikes07]

does the AP leave any evidence that the maps were messed with at any point? Can they tell by looking at the computer that you have had suspicious readings or anything?

 

[tunersteve]

No, you'll want to save your stock data before installing a map, and in the event of going to the dealer, uninstall and allow the AP to re-load this information. Never go into a dealer with the AP map or 'stock' map they give you IMO.

 

[Jay Davidson]

(cool)

 

[Mistersix]

(cool)

this will add way more horsepower than the ap! (rockon)

 

[dougefresh_]

So far I have:

ACT 6puck sprung clutch and ACT flywheel
Corksport SRI/TIP
have an AWR MM on order
also have a turbosmart BPV on order

Thanks

I'd hate to see you get the AP, and have your rear end fail (bolts known to shear and axles snap). I recommend getting an upgraded rear diff brace before adding significant power. The stock set up is weak... Mazda came out with some upgraded bolts, but they were just meant to keep that stock car in one piece.
SU sells an upgraded rear diff brace (which has been on back order for 3 months), and so does CPE. Honestly, your better off changing your order, and getting the diff mount first, and the mm after IMO.
However, I've heard the install takes like a 3 hours or so, but it won't fail (at least I haven't heard of the CPE one failing ever.. a friend on another forum went through a couple SU ones, but he has a lot of power).

It also depends on how much power you want to add, and how you drive (i.e. do you race 1/4 mile?) but the stock rear mount has failed with bone stock engines. There's an entire thread on it on the 6club. Some people have gotten away with the stock one, especially with light mods. I'm waiting on mine, and plan on doing the AP after that. The Stage I + SF adds like ~17% power, which is significant.

You'll also hear 10 people saying the rear diff brace is unnecessary, but talk to a few people who snapped axles, and paid out of pocket for the repairs...

 

[amilliems6]

this will add way more horsepower than the ap! (rockon)

**** that. WEAK!

thats the real s***.

 

[Stealth01]

I'd check first and see if your MS6 has the upgraded bolts and rear diff mount. I believe there's a mazda-produced upgraded brace. If not, I agree -- go with the upgraded rear diff mount.

After that, AP, TMIC, Down pipe, IMHO. But I'm mechanically SPED, so don't listen to me.