New Member Introduction (2013 CX-5 GT AWD)

C

CharlieX5er

:
California
:
2013 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Greetings M247 members. Joined the forum about a year ago after purchasing the aforementioned 2013 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD (Black Mica), and have been basically lurking/researching since. Have been tremendously pleased with this vehicle, in spite of a couple of necessary repairs over the past year. No plans for any serious modification, but there are a few upgrades I have made, and some others I have planned or am considering for some future point.

Upgrades & Additions To Date
  • CURT 13315 2" Class 3 Receiver Hitch (for Küat Transfer v.2 3-Bike Rack)
  • Mazda OEM Splash Guards (to protect bikes)
  • Konig Diverge Wheels - 20 x 8.5, 32mm offset (Black)
  • Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Plus - 245/45 ZR 20
Planned or Considering for Future
  • H & R 28875-1 Sport Springs - -1.25" F / -1.75" R (On-hand but uninstalled as of 8/7/2024)
  • Mazda OEM Roof Rails / Crossbars
  • Blackout Emblems
  • Repaint or Vinyl Wrap (Clearcoat failing on horizontal surfaces)
  • Intake?
  • Exhaust?
Before
IMG_0117.webpIMG_0229.webp

After
IMG_0123.webp
IMG_1808.webpIMG_1812.webpIMG_1809.webpIMG_1878.webp

Thanks for reading, and for all the valuable information gathered from this forum!
 
I had a 2013 Touring that I installed those springs on because I couldn't stomach the ride height (I'm basically not an SUV/crossover kind of guy. Just bought it for the practicality.) First off, if you do install them, be sure to install adjustable lower control arms in the rear and camber bolts in the front. Otherwise, you'll never get the alignment right and your tires will suffer unnecessary outer shoulder wear. And second, be prepared to put it all back to stock when you decide to sell it as no one wants a lowered crossover with a harsh ride. I speak from experience. My car was in showroom condition with 50k miles on it when I sold it in 2019 and I didn't get near what I thought I would get.
 

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paris1 said:
I had a 2013 Touring that I installed those springs on because I couldn't stomach the ride height (I'm basically not an SUV/crossover kind of guy. Just bought it for the practicality.) First off, if you do install them, be sure to install adjustable lower control arms in the rear and camber bolts in the front. Otherwise, you'll never get the alignment right and your tires will suffer unnecessary outer shoulder wear. And second, be prepared to put it all back to stock when you decide to sell it as no one wants a lowered crossover with a harsh ride. I speak from experience. My car was in showroom condition with 50k miles on it when I sold it in 2019 and I didn't get near what I thought I would get.
Click to expand...
Thanks Paris1! Good info and I'll keep it in mind. From what I had read elsewhere, I thought I would get by with only an alignment -- which is honestly why I haven't installed them yet ... haven't had the block of time to do both at once.

Not sure where you are, but here in the Central Valley of CA, there are a LOT of lowered vehicles that don't seem to fit the mold ... like lowered Jeep Wranglers, for instance. To each his own, I guess, but maybe the market for a lowered crossover here would be a little better? That said, it's an older vehicle that I intend to keep for quite a while, so probably won't really be expecting much of a trade-in value anyway.

I DO want to avoid the wear issue on the tires though, so I'll be doing more research before jumping into the install on the springs. Thanks again!
 
paris1 said:
I had a 2013 Touring that I installed those springs on because I couldn't stomach the ride height (I'm basically not an SUV/crossover kind of guy. Just bought it for the practicality.) First off, if you do install them, be sure to install adjustable lower control arms in the rear and camber bolts in the front. Otherwise, you'll never get the alignment right and your tires will suffer unnecessary outer shoulder wear. And second, be prepared to put it all back to stock when you decide to sell it as no one wants a lowered crossover with a harsh ride.
Click to expand...
Add adjustable sway bar links to that list, as I discovered recently. I think they are a requirement when changing the ride height of the car.

Most people think they can just do springs, but really it's:

Springs
Adjustable sway bar links (longer front, shorter rear)
Adjustable rear control arms
Alignment
 
N7turbo said:
Add adjustable sway bar links to that list, as I discovered recently. I think they are a requirement when changing the ride height of the car.

Most people think they can just do springs, but really it's:

Springs
Adjustable sway bar links (longer front, shorter rear)
Adjustable rear control arms
Alignment
Click to expand...
Thank you!🙏🏼 Care to share more info on the additional parts? You can see the Jeep in the background of the ”Before” shot, and that’s where my skills lie — 4” lift, 37s, beadlocks, plate steel bumpers, etc., etc. It’s a rock crawler. Lowering is a whole new ballgame for me, so help is definitely appreciated!
 
paris1 said:
This is what AI used on my 2013 Touring. IMO it's all you need:
meganracing.com

Rear Camber Kit for Mazda CX5 12-16 - MRS-MZ-1689

Rear Camber Kit for Mazda CX5 12-16
meganracing.com meganracing.com
www.proimporttuners.com

SPC Camber Adjusting Bolts Kit for 2013 Mazda CX5

Product page for SPC Camber Adjusting Bolts Kit fitment for the 2013 Mazda CX5
www.proimporttuners.com www.proimporttuners.com
Click to expand...
I didn't need the camber bolts, but I wish I would have gotten those control arms. They are nicer than the ones I went with and might rust less.

But I don't agree it's all you need. Not after my current experience with ride quality with a 2" drop using stock sway bar links. Imagine feeling you don't have a suspension that absorbs impacts anymore. Yeah, not fun.
 
N7turbo said:
I didn't need the camber bolts, but I wish I would have gotten those control arms. They are nicer than the ones I went with and might rust less.

But I don't agree it's all you need. Not after my current experience with ride quality with a 2" drop using stock sway bar links. Imagine feeling you don't have a suspension that absorbs impacts anymore. Yeah, not fun.
Click to expand...
With H&R springs, you end up with an average (front to rear) 1.5" drop, so your 2" drop was a bit more severe. Either way, if you don't use front camber bolts you end up with marginally correct camber on the front end. Since I was doing the rear correctly by replacing the lower control arms, it was a no-brainer to install the front bolts in order to achieve the camber number I was after.
 
cornerking said:
looks great! those wheels really change the whole look of the car.
Click to expand...
Thanks cornerking! I agree about the transformation. I felt it turned out even better than I had hoped! Now to get the emblems blacked out ... :)
 
Beautiful CX-5! How are the DWS06? How’s the 2.0L? I’ve also tremendously enjoyed (both) my CX-5(s). So much so, after getting in a collision, I immediately sprung towards buying another one. (How it held up inside to impact may have had something to do with that decision). What’s your vehicle history?
 
paris1 said:
With H&R springs, you end up with an average (front to rear) 1.5" drop, so your 2" drop was a bit more severe. Either way, if you don't use front camber bolts you end up with marginally correct camber on the front end. Since I was doing the rear correctly by replacing the lower control arms, it was a no-brainer to install the front bolts in order to achieve the camber number I was after.
Click to expand...
Where did you buy them from?

I've seen them mentioned. I've also seen a lot of people say they didn't need them, and my alignment shop didn't mention having issues getting the front aligned. So it's a real curiosity why there is such a lack of consensus on this.
 
CharlieX5er said:
Thank you!🙏🏼 Care to share more info on the additional parts? You can see the Jeep in the background of the ”Before” shot, and that’s where my skills lie — 4” lift, 37s, beadlocks, plate steel bumpers, etc., etc. It’s a rock crawler. Lowering is a whole new ballgame for me, so help is definitely appreciated!
Click to expand...
I will say that the aftermarket support for these cars is poor.

We have good springs available from Eibach, H&R, and Corksport. Personally I think the Corksports are the best.

But the supporting parts—the sway bar links—are almost nowhere to be found. I found ONE option that works and that was after measuring plus some trial and error. And before you ask, the adjustable links Corksport sells won't work with their 2" lowering springs.

You need different lengths than stock to keep your sway bars relaxed as your ride height changes. Otherwise, you'll put a permanent tension on the bars that will ruin your ride quality. A change in spring rates in the front from 3.0K to 3.4K shouldn't feel like a drastic change, but it will if you don't change your sway bar links. I didn't like driving my car anymore. It doesn't help that our roads are so bad here.
 
N7turbo said:
Where did you buy them from?

I've seen them mentioned. I've also seen a lot of people say they didn't need them, and my alignment shop didn't mention having issues getting the front aligned. So it's a real curiosity why there is such a lack of consensus on this.
Click to expand...
See the link in post #6 above for one source. They're widely available. At least they were when I did the work on my car about 8-9 years ago.
 
jakeuten said:
Beautiful CX-5! How are the DWS06? How’s the 2.0L? I’ve also tremendously enjoyed (both) my CX-5(s). So much so, after getting in a collision, I immediately sprung towards buying another one. (How it held up inside to impact may have had something to do with that decision). What’s your vehicle history?
Click to expand...
Thanks Jakeuten. I am liking the tires a lot, but so far we’ve only had dry weather. I’ll have to wait for winter to see how they do in the wet. 9” annual rainfall is a big year here. 😁

The 2.0L is a mixed bag for me. With the A/C on, I find myself frequently forcing the car to shift down, just to provide “enough” oomph to get past a sort of dead spot in the power curve after initial launch from a stoplight. Not talking about WOT, just a good, reasonable pull up to cruising speed. If I launch more aggressively, it’s not such an issue, but still a noticeable dip in acceleration. It seems that the key to smooth(er) acceleration is keeping the RPM up.

That said, I took the car on a coast-to-coast and back road trip last summer and was very happy with the way it cruised … everywhere from the Mojave Desert, to the Rocky Mountains. We were literally from sea level to over 11,000 ft. (Loveland Pass, CO) with not an issue, and what I considered GREAT mileage, often well over 30 mpg on average.

As to vehicle history, that has a lot to do with my perspective on the mileage. 😄 This is what had been my daily for a few years prior to picking up the CX-5:IMG_1912.webp
13 mpg was a good day, lucky to get 16 on the highway (without the trailer). I still have it, and love it for what it’s designed for, it’s just not a good daily driver! 😂 I had a 2013 Ford Focus when it was new, but just had it on a 3 yr. lease and turned it back in at the end. I liked it, but it was always intended just to be kind of a fill in the gap solution at the time. when the family was all still at home, I had a Yukon XL Denali, and a Suburban before that. I’ve had pickups, other Jeeps, muscle cars when I was late teens and early 20s, etc., etc., just never have been in on the lowering aspect before.
 
CharlieX5er said:
⋯ The 2.0L is a mixed bag for me.
Click to expand...
Actually Mazda’s original high-compression SkyActiv-G 2.0L is an excellent engine more than most people thought. Yeh it’s lack of power due to its small displacement, but the fuel efficiency is much better than the 2.5L NA. It doesn’t have the heavy balance shaft that the 2.5L needs to fight the vibration, and it gives more space to work on in engine compartment. I believe the bigger tires you have also affect the engine performance. I would keep the factory specs on tire size with the 2.0L on a CX-5. Of course if you have a 6-speed manual with the 2.0L that would be the best match.
 
yrwei52 said:
It doesn’t have the heavy balance shaft that the 2.5L needs to fight the vibration
Click to expand...
Does it "need" it or was it Mazda's attempt to make a smoother engine as they took the brand upscale? My CX-5 engine is significantly smoother and quieter than the 2.0 in my Miata.
 
N7turbo said:
Does it "need" it or was it Mazda's attempt to make a smoother engine as they took the brand upscale? My CX-5 engine is significantly smoother and quieter than the 2.0 in my Miata.
Click to expand...
The rule of thumb for as long as I can remember has been 'any 4 cyl 2.5 ltrs or larger requires a balance shaft'. It's kind of a basic law of physics.
 
paris1 said:
The rule of thumb for as long as I can remember has been 'any 4 cyl 2.5 ltrs or larger requires a balance shaft'. It's kind of a basic law of physics.
Click to expand...
Most didn't until a couple of decades ago maybe, Chevy 2.9L, I'm not sure. I had a Honda and two GMs with 2.2L and they both had balance shafts.
 
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