NASA Nationals Time Trials
- Thread starter low_psi
- Start date
Thanks, I haven't said anything since I've been extremely dissappointed. After rebuilding the transmission (stripped 3rd gear) over the weekend and installing a shock to replace the blown right rear Wed night, I was all set to dial the car in and run a great time. Thursday morning I went out on the street tires in the first session since it was practice and the times didn't count. The alignment was WAY out with a ton of toe in from raising the car an inch to fit the 235/40/17s, so I fixed that for the second session. I went out in the second and scrubbed in the new tires, running a 1:43.8 which was two seconds slower than last year (in TTE by the way) and felt like I could improve quite a bit since I was rusty from not driving for two months and the car still had a lot of dialing in that was needed. I started by adjusting the pressures and shocks to make the car a little looser. We went out for the third session and since I was driving a car with a basically solid rear end (I didn't know at the time, but my swaybar was bound up) with slightly more oversteer than I wanted I had my hands full. I wound up spinning in 11 so my times didn't count for that session. It rained all day Friday, but I fixed the swaybar so I didn't wind up killing myself. On Saturday the conditions were drying for the 2nd session and dry for the 3rd, but the track was still very slippery and I ran a low 1:44. Patrick Smith won in his Supercharged Miata with a 1:42.4. He's a great guy and has been driving non-stop all summer to dial the car in and practice so he definitely deserves it. Next year the car will be a beast. I was dynoed at 184 whp and weighed 2575 lbs (with me in the car). Forged Rods and pistons will go in as soon as this years events are complete. I want 220 whp for next year.
I really want to say thank you to Nitto Tires, Empire Tuning and Winking Lizard Tavern for your support this year even though my results weren't as good as previous years. Get ready for some fun next year!
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Well it certainly sounds like an interesting event! Its a shame things didn't go smoother for you. 2nd place is nothing to be ashamed of though, especially considering everything that occurred.
On the subject of your car:
Did you buy 7.5" or 8" wide RPF1s?
Anything else planned other than the rebuilt bottom end?
On the subject of your car:
Did you buy 7.5" or 8" wide RPF1s?
Anything else planned other than the rebuilt bottom end?
They are 8" wide.
I am most likely going to add a manual brake proportioning valve and then a big wing and a front splitter if I can get over 210 hp. Stability under braking is my limiting factor right now. If I can brake deeper without locking the rears up I would be a lot faster. I can't add too much drag if I don't get the power though. I'll post as I get things done. Still going to enjoy the car as it is for another couple autocrosses and a track day before giving up on the season, though.
Did you get the +45offset or did you pudge the +35's?
With a built motor, 210hp should be quite reliable and easy with just a little more boost.
Have you tried generic auto store rear pads and a lil toe-in in the rear? I'm having the rear lockup issue now too with the Carbotechs up front and I was hoping switching to a non-aggressive rear pad would help. I guess at that point I still may be chasing the rear when the crappy rear pads fall off and don't grip much at all.
With a built motor, 210hp should be quite reliable and easy with just a little more boost.
Have you tried generic auto store rear pads and a lil toe-in in the rear? I'm having the rear lockup issue now too with the Carbotechs up front and I was hoping switching to a non-aggressive rear pad would help. I guess at that point I still may be chasing the rear when the crappy rear pads fall off and don't grip much at all.
I got the 35 offset. I am using the full camber at the strut / knuckle connection so the top is about 5 mm from the strut. With less camber at the spindle (more at the camber plate) the 45 would work too. I also took a sledge hammer and a pole to the fenders and quarters to flare the openings.
I tried crappy pads, but with the increased rear bias I went through all the pad material in one 20 minute session. I think a proportioning valve is definitely the way to go. No reason to carry the extra couple pounds for the ABS module anyway.
