MSP Dyno

Dyno.jpg


MOTOR/EXHAUST - Injen CAI | Hard pipes | CustomMSP SMIC | greddy RS BOV | upgraded intake manifold | AWR front and rear motor mounts | NGK copper plugs
DRIVETRAIN - kartboy Shortshifter & bushings | Exedy Stage 1 Performance Clutch | Soon, JMD lighter flywheel
EXHAUST - 2.5 downpipe w/ highflow cat, forgot maker | Greddy SP2 catback exhaust
BRAKES/SUSPENSION - Rotora front and rear rotors | SS brakelines | Axxis pads | TEIN S Tech lowering springs
ELECTRONICS - A-pillar guage pod | Greddy ProfecB Spec II EBC (10 lo, 12 hi) | Auto meter boost guage | AEM A/F meter
AUDIO - JL Audio 8" subwoofer | 4 factory stereo - asses!

before intake manifold and EBC dynapack 3000 @ 169.5 whp/174.5 torque
After... dynapack 3000 @ 205.1 whp/202.6 torque
 
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It is the most accurate Dyno on the market. it shows A/F as accurate as it possibly can be with current technology. Compared to a jet i would say my numbers would be like 230hp. This is a tuners Dyno not a bragging Dyno!

on the station it is Dynapack 3000

See here www.bandtmotorsports.com
 
It's to the wheels the machine hooks up on both side after you take off the wheels. Direct to the lug studs

yes the 626 mani from SU
dynapack.jpg
 
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oh okay. because it says "Flywheel Torque" and "Flywheel Power" on the dyno sheet. thought it had something to do with flywheel power and flywheel torque. shrug. that's pretty good for just those mods. nice job
 
That's ******* Awesome..

The only negative I can see is the pain in the ass it is to take off the tires..

Have you ever thought that the numbers mught be a bit off because you have removed the weight of the front tires.. They qualify as Un-Sprung and Rotational Mass.

Either way. Nice Pull. Linear and Sexy (Except For Yellow.. :) )
 
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^^^ dyno packs are UNaccurate. Their numbers are always higher, simply because there is no rotational mass (the front wheels) in the equation.... Just like Brian said. If you were dyno your car on a real dyno, your number would be lower.
 
banned4life said:
It is the most accurate Dyno on the market. it shows A/F as accurate as it possibly can be with current technology. Compared to a jet i would say my numbers would be like 230hp. This is a tuners Dyno not a bragging Dyno!

on the station it is Dynapack 3000

See here www.bandtmotorsports.com

Actually a Dynapack reads approx. 10% higher that a dynojet. There are magazine articles that prove it.
 
uhh call B and T motor sports. they know more technically than I i just know on mustangs and jets you will have much higher numbers then me. Wish i new of a place around here to test our conflicting theories.

EDIT: maybe i was trhinking mustang dynos
 
Your right because you are getting the readings from the engine to the drivetrain with no interference, the machine acts as the wheels so no road friction to mess up the Dyno readings. which equals more accurate tuning.

At least that seems logocally correct to me?!?!

yashart_mp3 said:
^^^ dyno packs are UNaccurate. Their numbers are always higher, simply because there is no rotational mass (the front wheels) in the equation.... Just like Brian said. If you were dyno your car on a real dyno, your number would be lower.
 
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unichip eh...

i dont know why but i'm just not a big fan of not being able to tune the car myself (or at least for cheap/free with help of others/internet). i figured since you are concerned for power that you would go for at least a piggy back (like mpi or dsm/afc)
 
Here is the article. Sorry it is originally in french and I had google translate it but you can get the meaning regardless.

http://translate.google.com/transla...&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=/language_tools

Note this part in the article:
In fact, Dynapack is so exact that the top of power is the same in the three tests carried out. Only one variation of hardly two tenth is detected on one of the three curves. But there is some difficulty, the figures obtained are 162,7 HP and 164,5 lb-pi, which is higher than the computed value with the crankshaft by the manufacturer.
 
Is there a better one then Unichip??? i heard most others have issues with our ECU. Unichip was the only one that STUCK. There is a unichip partner here in VA too. Plus i don't know the first thing about tuning!!!!
smo0f said:
unichip eh...

i dont know why but i'm just not a big fan of not being able to tune the car myself (or at least for cheap/free with help of others/internet). i figured since you are concerned for power that you would go for at least a piggy back (like mpi or dsm/afc)
 
well, i'm assuming in virginia that you guys have inspection. a standalone will throw a constant check engine light and cause you to fail inspection (unless you find a way to completely bypass it come inspection time). a piggy back such as the unichip, and the mpi, and i think the dsm afc wont throw a check engine light (assuming they're hooked up properly). i personally would go with either the dsm afc or the mpi, as there's a lot of support for them on the forums, and supposedly once you get the hang of it tuning is real easy and more importantly free. for the unichip, you have to pay to get it retuned and i believe it's not that cheap. however supposedly you're going to be able to plug in a PDA to the unichip to have some limited tuning capabilities. it's up to you really but there's plenty of threads here that explain the differences throughout all tuning options.
 

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