I have a 2014 Mazda CX-5 that didn’t start today (was working fine on my trip to the grocery store yday) and I tried to jump it with cables without success. My neighbor came out with a portable jump starter so I took him up on his offer. He connected it to an outlet on his house and we connected it and powered it up. I saw one spark, but not sure where it came from. Car didn’t start the first go, it did start the second go. However, when it started, engine codes p061b and p0102 came up as well as a flashing tire pressure light. I tried to drive it but it kept stumbling/kicking when accelerating so I stopped. I turned the car off and on again without any issue, but CEL was still on and tire pressure lights were still flashing. I’m worried that the jump start blew my circuit or messed up the electrical system some how…. There was significant corrision on the battery terminals and I will get the battery replaced and terminals cleaned, but I’m worried that won’t solve the issue and it’s a wiring or electrical issue that will require further check-up. Any insights?
Messed up electrical system after jumpstart? 2014 CX-5
- Thread starter klnclouds
- Start date
I suggest you try disconnecting the battery cables and do the following. Remove the negative cable first and then the positive.
Be very careful NOT to touch both posts with your wrench AT ANY TIME!! This will cause a short circuit, weld the wrench to the posts and could cause a fire or explosion which could result in some very serious injuries.
When you have disconnected the cables, give the posts and clamps a good scrub with an old toothbrush using baking soda and water. You don't have to use much, just enough to remove the white powder from them.
Rinse them carefully, not with a hose on full blast, a bottle of clear water will work fine. Dry the battery top with a rag or old towel.
If you have some dielectric grease (available at any auto parts store) give the posts and clamps a smear where they actually make contact with each other. Reconnect the cables, positive first then the negative and tighten the fasteners so that there is no movement of the clamp on the post.
This will greatly improve the contact and transfer of power from the battery.
It may also reset the system (maybe), and clear the idiot lights.
If you're not comfortable trying this then get the car to your mechanic to do the repairs. Good luck.
Be very careful NOT to touch both posts with your wrench AT ANY TIME!! This will cause a short circuit, weld the wrench to the posts and could cause a fire or explosion which could result in some very serious injuries.
When you have disconnected the cables, give the posts and clamps a good scrub with an old toothbrush using baking soda and water. You don't have to use much, just enough to remove the white powder from them.
Rinse them carefully, not with a hose on full blast, a bottle of clear water will work fine. Dry the battery top with a rag or old towel.
If you have some dielectric grease (available at any auto parts store) give the posts and clamps a smear where they actually make contact with each other. Reconnect the cables, positive first then the negative and tighten the fasteners so that there is no movement of the clamp on the post.
This will greatly improve the contact and transfer of power from the battery.
It may also reset the system (maybe), and clear the idiot lights.
If you're not comfortable trying this then get the car to your mechanic to do the repairs. Good luck.
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Some errors clear themselves after a short drive. I don't know which of these errors will clear, if any, but some do.
Is the battery the original battery? If so, don't bother cleaning the old battery, you need a new one.
Is the battery the original battery? If so, don't bother cleaning the old battery, you need a new one.
- :
- Plano, Texas, USA
But is it possible an original battery which is still alive in a 10~11 year old 2014 CX-5?
Mine was done in about 5¾ years.The longest battery life I’ve heard is from a good friend of mine in Connecticut whose OEM battery in his 2003 Lexus LX 470 lasted 13+ years and 100,000 miles at the time he sold the LX!
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- Plano, Texas, USA
This’s the most detailed battery post cleaning write-up I’ve seen for a while.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
The failed jump-start attempt most likely caused by corroded terminals you mentioned later even if you connected your jump cable properly, to positive post and engine block (NOT negative post) on dead vehicle.
Anything is possible at this point ⋯
The key is the engine can be started with your battery and it runs fine now even with CEL and TPMS warning light. You shouldn’t have damaged any electronics or your engine can’t be started and run smoothly. But you still want to read the DTC codes just in case.
Get the battery replaced at WalMart with EverStart Maxx Group 35 battery which comes with 3-year replacement warranty for the best C/P value. They even do installation with terminal cleaning and corrosion protection for you on site without the hassle of bring the old battery back for the core charge like Costco.
Update: replaced the battery and cleaned the corrosion, car still starts fine but same issues. Kicking when accelerating at low speeds and shifting from D to R, p061b and p0102 as well as TCS lights and TPMS flashing. Tested MAF sensor by unplugging when engine is on and engine does not turn off which according to the internet suggests MAF sensor issue? I’m going to replace that when the part comes tomorrow. Any insights on this, am I on the right track? Anyone hear of MAF sensor getting blown after a jump start?
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- Plano, Texas, USA
No link?
Would love to check it out!
Reddit - Dive into anything
www.reddit.com
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- 2022 CX-5 Turbo
Does anyone has a theory for it? Why?
Glad it is fixed for OP.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
You had DTC P0102 “Mass Air Flow Circuit Low” and DTC P061B “Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance” both point to failing MFA sensor. So this’s logical a new MFA sensor would have fixed your problem. I don’t believe the jump-start would damage your MFA sensor, but just a coincident as MFA sensor failure is a pretty common problem on high mileage cars. Apparently your failing MFA sensor caused your no-start at the first place.
Here’s another example on failing MFA sensor with a different DTC P0172 Fuel System Too Rich Bank 1:
130k miles on a 2014 CX-5 - First Check Engine Light - P0172
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