Mazda5 Purchase Checklist...

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ScratchNSniff

Undisputed Parts God
:
Way to Many
Looked for a thread as similar however was unable to find anything...we are currently in the market for a Mazda5, looking like 2010 and below as we have around a $10K budget...

On the 2010 and below, what are some problem issues and items I should be aware of and check...

Any help would be greatly appreciated...
 
ScratchNSniff said:
Looked for a thread as similar however was unable to find anything...we are currently in the market for a Mazda5, looking like 2010 and below as we have around a $10K budget...

On the 2010 and below, what are some problem issues and items I should be aware of and check...

Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Click to expand...

Check the suspension and alignment if possible.

Make sure the rear door locks are working consistently.

If you can get underneath check the bolts on the engine cover.

Make sure you buy it with brand new tires , they like to eat tires.

I bought my 2006 5 in the summer of 2005. I have 83000 miles on it and these are the most annoying issues I have dealt with.
Oh yeah, check for rust.

Good luck.
 
Robotaz said:
2010 doesn't eat tires like the 2006.
Click to expand...
Neither of my '08s had tire wear issues and I rotate ~10K ish. It would make sense that when Mazda evaluate the car for mid-cycle refresh in the '08, they adjusted the parameters that was causing the issue. They either changed the rear control arm or they simply used different acceptable alignment setting. This is usually how it plays out. The first years are prone to bugs but are usually more raw (in some good ways). The car get more refined and heavily and dumbed down as the years go by – this is why you can’t beat a classic :p. The earlier alignment likely allows the car to be more nimble and the earlier models did not get the PCM refresh which took away 5sih hp for a smoother curve.
 
Silentnoise713 said:
Neither of my '08s had tire wear issues and I rotate ~10K ish. It would make sense that when Mazda evaluate the car for mid-cycle refresh in the '08, they adjusted the parameters that was causing the issue. They either changed the rear control arm or they simply used different acceptable alignment setting. This is usually how it plays out. The first years are prone to bugs but are usually more raw (in some good ways). The car get more refined and heavily and dumbed down as the years go by – this is why you can’t beat a classic :p. The earlier alignment likely allows the car to be more nimble and the earlier models did not get the PCM refresh which took away 5sih hp for a smoother curve.
Click to expand...

Good point, maybe if I use the 2008 or 2010 alignment specs I would not be eating up tires. I have been buying 50,000 mile tires and hoping to get 30,000 out of them.
 
If they are getting eaten from the inside edge check the condition of your lateral links and control arm bushings as well.
 
Secondtyme said:
If they are getting eaten from the inside edge check the condition of your lateral links and control arm bushings as well.
Click to expand...

They are getting eaten very badly from the inside. 80% of the tire is fine and then the last few inches are bald. It seems to be worse on the driver's side. I thought it was Mavis Tire giving me crappy alignments. Is there any way to check the condition of those bushings while the car is on jack stands?
 
Secondtyme said:
If they are getting eaten from the inside edge check the condition of your lateral links and control arm bushings as well.
Click to expand...
Good point! IIRC, one of the TSBs mention worn link bushings as a potential culprit for rear end knocking noises. If the bushing is susceptible to premature wear, the added play may contribute to other anomalies. I wonder then if Mazda also changed bushings supplier/quality in the MCR..? hmmm.

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
Too much toe-in causes accelerated wear at the outboard edges of the tires, while too much toe-out causes wear at the inboard edges
+
toe will change slightly from a static situation to a dynamic one.
+
To improve ride quality, street cars are equipped with relatively soft rubber bushings at their suspension links, and thus the links move a fair amount when they are loaded.
+
a street car requires a greater static toe-in than does a race car, so as to avoid the condition wherein bushing compliance allows the wheels to assume a toe-out condition.
Click to expand...



ScratchNSniff said:
Looks like we will most likely be picking up a 2012 instead of 2010...

Making the 3 hour drive to check this guy out tomorrow...
http://www.nelsonmazdahh.com/detail-2012-mazda-mazda5-4dr_wagon_automatic_sport-used-12395038.html
Click to expand...
Is the car a mid-long term keeper or a short term stop gap? I would highly recommend at least having a look/drive in a GT since you are eyeing an auto. MSRP price difference is about $3K but in the used car market, it is cut in half (possibly more). It is absolutely worth the price difference. Good luck with whichever car you pursue.
 
This one at $12K out the door is vy far the absolute best value we could find in a search radius from Ohio down to Florida...basically east coast...thought it was a 2 hour drive...6.5...we are still en route...
 
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