Mazda 5 2006: Need help with list of problems and DIY

[stanto]

Hello,

My wife has a Mazda 5 2006 (Canada).

For the last week I've been trying to find a list of "most common problems" for this model/year and a bunch of DIYs for a complete break job to no avail.

Google doesn't help because once I type "mazda 5" it mostly gives results for the 3.

I checked under the Engine/Break section of the forum but it doesn't seem to have a lot of info.

- Do most DIY videos and forums on the 3 apply to the 5 ? (same year)
- Is there a post/site that lists the most common problems and when they occur (Kms)?


Sorry for the very general post but coming myself from a BMW (2002 E46) I am "spoiled" in finding tons of detailed DIY videos for pretty much everything that i have done on the car.
So please .. no flames! LOL
I did a lot of research before posting but info seems to be very minimal and dispersed. Surprising when there are tons of mazdas on the road .... (huh)

Thanks in advance for any references/links !!!

 

[Davicho]

In short any Mazda3 video will be the same for our Mazda5s. Mechanically they are identical so any DIY video will provide a general guide for you.

 

[thaxman]

First, you may find better search results looking for a "Mazda5" over a "Mazda 5." But yes, the powertrain, suspension and other mechanical bits are mostly carryover from the Mazda3. What you may find as a new owner is that tons of wierd things go wrong on 06's. I have replaced lots of plastic pieces - from both sun visor clips, the rearview mirror, the door lock switch - and also have had other problems, like the heat shield on the trans tunnel above the cat fall down and start to burn up and disintegrate. The FoMoCo OE brake pads are junk, as are all the motor mounts and many other rubber parts like the swaybar bushings.

But the bright side is that the mechanicals are very solid, and the space inside such a small vehicle is unrivalled. Then there is the driving experience that is unlike anything with this much weight over the rear wheels. All positive.

 

[Secondtyme]

Give us some history on your 5 so we can lead you in the right direction in terms of "stuff that breaks" How many miles do you have on the car? Did you buy it new, or used? Auto trans, or manual? What trim level do you have? There is a wealth of good info on this forum about the first gen 5s so you are in the right place, and as others have already said the mechanical stuff is all almost identical to the 3.

 

[stanto]

Thanks for the replies and apologies for not answering earlier.

You are right Secondtyme, i should have given more details. I just emphasized the Canada part due to rust (boy do they rust!) and maybe some advice for certain parts that may not "behave" well in our winters....

Ok, it's a :
- 2006 Mazda 5 Sport
- Automatic
- 80K Kms (around 50K miles i would guess)

Bought it used two years ago and i strongly suspect nothing was done on the car.

I am really due for breaks (F + R) and shocks.

Due it's rust, especially the back "fenders" and underneath, i am trying to compromise between a preventative schedule vs. a "fix when broken" one.
My mechanic gave it "2 more years" due to pretty advanced rust underneath.... Hence my emphasis on Canadian winters with lots of road salt (here). I know that warmer climates and Mazdas go well and i always trust a "Made in Japan" sticker ...mechanically..... Problem is the rust!

I will not ask for the rotor/pads/shocks brands that are cheap and don't warp after 2 months. All this i can find by search and reading reviews. (But suggestions are certainly welcome!!)
My problem is, as mentioned, a "list of things to watch out" and if i can rely on DIY's for the 3 without having any surprises once under the car. *Especially* on cold climates with salted roads...

Thanks again!
This seems to be a great community.

 

[Secondtyme]

You will want to address the shocks in the rear first, as those are famous for failing and causing a host of related failures. If your van is wearing out tires on the inside edges in particular, you are overdue to replace shocks. The rear trailing arm bushings also go bad fairly early, leading to funny tire wear, and odd clunks and groans. You want to stay on top of your transmission fluid changes, as the transmissions in these vans work pretty hard, conventional wisdom is to replace the fluid every 30K (miles that is)

 

[stanto]

Thanks again for the heads up!

 

[thaxman]

Secondtyme kinda only addressed part of the inside tire wear: If you don't hit highway speeds all too often, adjusting rear toe to 0 degrees will stop the tires from scrubbing against the pavement. The downside is potential to be squirrely at high speed if you don't expect it to drive like a race car. But zeroing the toe back there makes twisties more fun in addition to saving the tires.

I say as often as I can that one needs to ditch the FoMoCo pads ASAP. If the OE rotors can be turned, you will be OK with better pads. I chose Centric Posi-Quiet ceramics, but there are lots of choices out there like Akebono & Hawk.

After 9-10 years, your thermostat is probably ready to go. A CEL that doesn't go away can signal that it is stuck open. The whole housing goes & I had no problem going aftermarket.
If your swaybar bushings go, they can take the endlinks with them, so be forewarned. You can get to both bushings from under the subframe w/o dropping it IF your hands and wrists are slender enough.