My 5 is starting to show signs of needing new struts and shocks which I'll do next spring. Been thinking of getting the H&R Coilover kit at Tire Rack for the Mazda 3. Would the 5 be too heavy for it? I want to get adjustable coilovers to drop it low in the summer and raise it back to OE height in the winter. I figure getting the coilovers and installing myself would cost just as much as bringing it to a shop and getting them to order in and install new Monroe shocks and struts.
Mazda 3 coilovers for Mazda 5?
- Thread starter DKaz
- Start date
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
mazda3 coilover kits - as well as shock absorbers - work fine on the 5. i myself ran a set of stock mazdaspeed3 shocks on the 5 before i sold it.
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
adjustment is very straightforward and when set at "full soft" you get a really nice street ride without compromising too much handling. i have not had any issues with the BCs and run them on my own cars as well as my customers.
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
cool let me know if you need anything else for the 5
BC Coilovers on Mazda 5
I just had the BC coilovers installed over a week ago on my 5 for the same reason, to make height adjustments between summer and winter seasons. After a week of driving, I must say I wish I skipped the step of doing lowering springs first, then upgrading to coilovers. Next time, I'll go straight to coilovers.
The ride quality is great for daily driving when set to full soft. They have 32 clicks of dampening adjustment. After playing around I have fronts at 10 clicks in and rears at 15 clicks in from full soft.
Good news for the BC's, the dampening adjustment is easily accessible. Fronts are under the hood where you would expect. Surprisingly, rears are conveniently located right under the cup holders. All you have to do is snap them out (by hand) and voila... rear dampeners are right there!!
I haven't adjusted ride height yet but right now I have mine in stock position which is right in the middle of the adjustment range. It looks like there's about 1" up ad down from this starting point. The drop was even and moderate. 1.35" drop both front and rear, roughly 1 finger gap between tire and fender. I'll probably bump it up another 0.75"-1" for the winter.
Ride height adjustment for the fronts are straight forward. Remove wheels, loosen lock rings and rotate shock units upward or downward then lock off again. Rears will be a bit trickier and will involve getting under the car since the adjustment is at the bottom of the coil spring which is tucked into the lower swing arm. The rear BC spring is considerably shorter than my OE springs and even lowering springs so I think jacking the rear end up all the way will allow me remove the springs a lot easier. Worse case, I'll have to unbolt the rear sway bar to make this easier.
I just had the BC coilovers installed over a week ago on my 5 for the same reason, to make height adjustments between summer and winter seasons. After a week of driving, I must say I wish I skipped the step of doing lowering springs first, then upgrading to coilovers. Next time, I'll go straight to coilovers.
The ride quality is great for daily driving when set to full soft. They have 32 clicks of dampening adjustment. After playing around I have fronts at 10 clicks in and rears at 15 clicks in from full soft.
Good news for the BC's, the dampening adjustment is easily accessible. Fronts are under the hood where you would expect. Surprisingly, rears are conveniently located right under the cup holders. All you have to do is snap them out (by hand) and voila... rear dampeners are right there!!
I haven't adjusted ride height yet but right now I have mine in stock position which is right in the middle of the adjustment range. It looks like there's about 1" up ad down from this starting point. The drop was even and moderate. 1.35" drop both front and rear, roughly 1 finger gap between tire and fender. I'll probably bump it up another 0.75"-1" for the winter.
Ride height adjustment for the fronts are straight forward. Remove wheels, loosen lock rings and rotate shock units upward or downward then lock off again. Rears will be a bit trickier and will involve getting under the car since the adjustment is at the bottom of the coil spring which is tucked into the lower swing arm. The rear BC spring is considerably shorter than my OE springs and even lowering springs so I think jacking the rear end up all the way will allow me remove the springs a lot easier. Worse case, I'll have to unbolt the rear sway bar to make this easier.
Nice writeup! I'm looking forward to getting these.
One reason to go with springs in a brand new car is that there's no sense in wasting brand new shocks/struts, but by going coilovers right away, one can avoid the not so fun task of removing and reinstalling new springs... just take out the whole shock/strut and spring assembly, install coilovers, and go, and sell the stock assembly or keep it for when you sell the car.
One reason to go with springs in a brand new car is that there's no sense in wasting brand new shocks/struts, but by going coilovers right away, one can avoid the not so fun task of removing and reinstalling new springs... just take out the whole shock/strut and spring assembly, install coilovers, and go, and sell the stock assembly or keep it for when you sell the car.
