Driving home last night I noticed a slushy resistance in my 5 speed. It was moderately difficult to take out of gear and put back into gear and the shifter wouldn't return to center when I put it in neutral. It would either stick to the left or right and won't center even if I try to keep it there. Anyone have any experience with this issue on our cars? I have 160k miles and haven't changed the transmission fluid in forever.
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Manual Shifter Won't Return to Center Gah!
- Thread starter PowrSlave
- Start date
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
uh...you might have answered your own question haha...
While gear oil, unlike engine oil, doesn't see nearly the internal heat...it still breaks down over time, and becomes mostly useless...If your noticing a lot of 'squish' when its colder (which is what could be hanging up the shifter in neutral)...its definitely time to change it...
Its kind of annoying to change gear oil in these cars...so unless you're ok with getting messy, and having someone help hold the bottle from above while you snake a hose into the oddly placed fill hole...it would be a lot easier to just take to a shop...
and if this is the only problem you ended up with...thats great news...I'm not saying this is exactly the problem, but its 100% where to start...
While gear oil, unlike engine oil, doesn't see nearly the internal heat...it still breaks down over time, and becomes mostly useless...If your noticing a lot of 'squish' when its colder (which is what could be hanging up the shifter in neutral)...its definitely time to change it...
Its kind of annoying to change gear oil in these cars...so unless you're ok with getting messy, and having someone help hold the bottle from above while you snake a hose into the oddly placed fill hole...it would be a lot easier to just take to a shop...
and if this is the only problem you ended up with...thats great news...I'm not saying this is exactly the problem, but its 100% where to start...
Bad fluid would make sense for squishiness or resistance while putting into or out of gear, but fluid condition shouldn't have an effect on the shifter movement when in neutral. Or at least I would presume this. It seems to have happened quite suddenly while driving and yes it was a bit cold last night, but today it wasn't really that cold and the condition didn't improve, so I am leaning toward bushings, but what bushings exactly am I looking for here?
They are the bushings at the bottom of the shifter under the car. They are located underneath a heat shield (if yours is still there). My shifting was stiff and squeaking so I lubed it up with PB blaster ( or Liquid Wrench) followed by a thicker oil. That made all the difference for me. There is also a polyurethane bushing kit available but I think they're a bit too expensive for just a couple of rubber bushings.
Don't forget to lube up the bushing at the other end of the shift rod where it enters the transmission.
Don't forget to lube up the bushing at the other end of the shift rod where it enters the transmission.
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Can I get access to replace the shifter bushing from underneath without removing anything from the interior or do I need to remove the center console and all that jazz first, then jack up the car and have the shifter drop down? Trying to figure out as many details as I can before I start...
You can do it all from underneath. My only problem was getting the heat shield off. There is 4 bolts that hold it on and they thread into weld nuts on the other side of the body. When I went to turn them, every weld nut broke loose inside the body and just started spinning. I ended up using my dremel tool to cut slots from each bolt to the edge of the shield then the shield slid out past each bolt. I even managed to re-install the shield pushing the slots back under the bolt heads then wrapping wire around the bolt head to take up the slack and stop any rattling. Your car may not even have this shield because a lot people remove them figuring they are useless.
I remember reading about one guy that put a torch to the pivot point. He said the heat helped to break things loose and draw the fluid in better. (be careful with that, WD-40 burns readily but Liquid Wrench has a much higher ignition point. I don't think PB blaster is available here in Canada so I don't know about that.)
You may want to consider using ATF type F in your manual transmission. I had a Mazda GLC 5-speed and it was recommended for colder climates. Apparently our transmissions don't have hypoid gears so there is no need for the special additives that come in gear oil. My shifting was quite sluggish with a clunk for every gear until the car warmed up for about 15 min. The RPM would even drop when I released the clutch after starting trying to get those gears spun up. After switching to the ATF my shifting was a lot smoother. You might even save some gas with the much lighter oil.
I remember reading about one guy that put a torch to the pivot point. He said the heat helped to break things loose and draw the fluid in better. (be careful with that, WD-40 burns readily but Liquid Wrench has a much higher ignition point. I don't think PB blaster is available here in Canada so I don't know about that.)
You may want to consider using ATF type F in your manual transmission. I had a Mazda GLC 5-speed and it was recommended for colder climates. Apparently our transmissions don't have hypoid gears so there is no need for the special additives that come in gear oil. My shifting was quite sluggish with a clunk for every gear until the car warmed up for about 15 min. The RPM would even drop when I released the clutch after starting trying to get those gears spun up. After switching to the ATF my shifting was a lot smoother. You might even save some gas with the much lighter oil.
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Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
Not to start any debates, but I would recommend just going with a high quality true manual gear box oil...a GL-4 rated oil like Redline MT-90...offers just about as good of protection as you'll ever get, and considering its never been changed...that is something significant...
ATF can be used in colder climates, for this kind of purpose (its really thin, so very easy to shift when cold)...but its NOT rated for proper protection of the g-series box...and not recommended by Mazda, at all...ATF usually has viscous properties to work with automatic clutch packs and planetary gears...manual gear boxes don't have these, and the viscous issues prevent it from getting to critical parts and staying there...
On the redline note...I've been using that in my 5 speed since new...just replaced it last November...it was -5*F early last week when i left for work...shifted like it was brand new...just pointing out, proper quality oils will do as well as thinner ATF in cold weather...with a lot more wear protection...it probably wouldn't hurt anything, i'm not trying to sound so serious about it...but i'd consider you lucky if you made it this far with those 3 quarts of oil and 160k miles; and wouldn't advise pushing that luck...thats all...
ATF can be used in colder climates, for this kind of purpose (its really thin, so very easy to shift when cold)...but its NOT rated for proper protection of the g-series box...and not recommended by Mazda, at all...ATF usually has viscous properties to work with automatic clutch packs and planetary gears...manual gear boxes don't have these, and the viscous issues prevent it from getting to critical parts and staying there...
On the redline note...I've been using that in my 5 speed since new...just replaced it last November...it was -5*F early last week when i left for work...shifted like it was brand new...just pointing out, proper quality oils will do as well as thinner ATF in cold weather...with a lot more wear protection...it probably wouldn't hurt anything, i'm not trying to sound so serious about it...but i'd consider you lucky if you made it this far with those 3 quarts of oil and 160k miles; and wouldn't advise pushing that luck...thats all...
OK, I hear that. Guess I'll be dumping my gear oil again. I might wait till spring though or at least until it's warmer. I did add one quart of Lucas Oil with the ATF and that stuff is as thick as snot so I hope I'm good till spring. I only put the ATF in about 7,000 KM ago so I think I'm good.
How much is that Red Line stuff ? I guess if it lasts forever I can justify the price.
How much is that Red Line stuff ? I guess if it lasts forever I can justify the price.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
yeah dude, you're fine...I just wouldn't leave it in there for another 50,000 miles or something...I'm on my third fill of redline at 155,000 miles...tried to put it in every 50k or so...
it comes out looking like it went in...been very happy with it...price though, it kind of sucks...i usually look for it in bulk from online stores...and even then its around $13 a quart...you only need 3 qts though for a replacement, and only need to do it every couple of years...if that...so its up to you...
it comes out looking like it went in...been very happy with it...price though, it kind of sucks...i usually look for it in bulk from online stores...and even then its around $13 a quart...you only need 3 qts though for a replacement, and only need to do it every couple of years...if that...so its up to you...
Just did a Google search:
Royal Purple & purchasing Redline MT-90 in Southern Ontario, Canada
After calling around to a couple of places and ultimately hearing that 'Redline MT-90 was illegal for sale in Canada because the warning label is wrong', I ended up calling Redline directly in the hopes of suggesting they change their label. The lady I talked to said that it wasn't illegal, and she ships to Canada all the time.
Long story short... she provided a place in Southern Ontario that sells the fluid (in case if you're in Canada and were told it was illegal or are looking for it):
Johnson Research & Development
Mississauga, ON
(905)822-7223
M-F 9-6
Sat. 10-4
I pointedly asked the guy at Johnson if it was illegal and he said no (if it was I doubt he would confess though). So, I'm not sure what is going on with that idea. I've since heard that since the label doesn't have French on it - is the reason.
Has anyone tried the Royal Purple stuff? It seems to be more readily available in Canada than Redline.
Guess it would be quite thrilling to run a banned substance in my car !! I'm in !!
Thanks a lot Quebec. Triumph, the Insult Comic Dog was right "you live in North America, learn the language!" Now I'm forced to be an outlaw !!
Royal Purple & purchasing Redline MT-90 in Southern Ontario, Canada
After calling around to a couple of places and ultimately hearing that 'Redline MT-90 was illegal for sale in Canada because the warning label is wrong', I ended up calling Redline directly in the hopes of suggesting they change their label. The lady I talked to said that it wasn't illegal, and she ships to Canada all the time.
Long story short... she provided a place in Southern Ontario that sells the fluid (in case if you're in Canada and were told it was illegal or are looking for it):
Johnson Research & Development
Mississauga, ON
(905)822-7223
M-F 9-6
Sat. 10-4
I pointedly asked the guy at Johnson if it was illegal and he said no (if it was I doubt he would confess though). So, I'm not sure what is going on with that idea. I've since heard that since the label doesn't have French on it - is the reason.
Has anyone tried the Royal Purple stuff? It seems to be more readily available in Canada than Redline.
Guess it would be quite thrilling to run a banned substance in my car !! I'm in !!
Thanks a lot Quebec. Triumph, the Insult Comic Dog was right "you live in North America, learn the language!" Now I'm forced to be an outlaw !!
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Hi People,
I know this is an ancient thread but did Powerslave get his gearshift sorted? I have the exact same issue with my RX8, along with the same thoughts that surely old gearbox oil wouldn't be enough for the gearstick to not return to the centre in neutral. So if this problem got sorted, please post the fix!
Thanks in advance.....
I know this is an ancient thread but did Powerslave get his gearshift sorted? I have the exact same issue with my RX8, along with the same thoughts that surely old gearbox oil wouldn't be enough for the gearstick to not return to the centre in neutral. So if this problem got sorted, please post the fix!
Thanks in advance.....
Wow! This is an old thread!
I have no recollection of making any phone calls.
And I never did dump my ATF type F fluid from my transmission.
It's still in there.
It's still working fine.(but I drive very gently. )
I have no idea if the OP fixed his problem or not, but I figure that he did.
People don't tend to repost after their problem has been fixed.
I have no recollection of making any phone calls.
And I never did dump my ATF type F fluid from my transmission.
It's still in there.
It's still working fine.(but I drive very gently. )
I have no idea if the OP fixed his problem or not, but I figure that he did.
People don't tend to repost after their problem has been fixed.
Heyup, Cheers for getting back, my RX8 isnt my daily driver (for obvious reasons), the gearshift was soo stiff driving home from the day it happened I havent driven it since,its winter over hear at the mo, so no major rush to get it fixed, but would love to know exactly what has gone wrong.......
Lubricating the shifter mechanism is a good place to start.
It's cheap and easy.
If it doesn't fix the problem, then you can decide what to do next.
For me, my transmission was grinding every gear for 20 minutes in the winter until it warmed up.
The ATF fixed that problem.
The stiff shifter was a separate issue that was easily fixed.
OH..
There is synchromesh oil too.
It's designed for manual transmissions that don't have hypoid gears (like my transmission), but it's about 20$ a liter.
The ATF type F was $7 a liter.
Did your stick shift suddenly get stiff as you were driving?
Or had the car been sitting for a while?
It's cheap and easy.
If it doesn't fix the problem, then you can decide what to do next.
For me, my transmission was grinding every gear for 20 minutes in the winter until it warmed up.
The ATF fixed that problem.
The stiff shifter was a separate issue that was easily fixed.
OH..
There is synchromesh oil too.
It's designed for manual transmissions that don't have hypoid gears (like my transmission), but it's about 20$ a liter.
The ATF type F was $7 a liter.
Did your stick shift suddenly get stiff as you were driving?
Or had the car been sitting for a while?
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Hi, it always sits for a while as its not my daily, the shift was always a bit crap (i had thought it was the clutch), but then on a spirited drive on a really hot (for Scotland) summer day I was slowing for a corner and it wouldn't shift out of top gear, luckily the clutch still disengages so I just put the clutch in and slowed down, after a bit of wrestling I got it out of gear, then had to jam it into gear to drive home, drove home just going between 4th & 3rd. Once home and it had cooled down a bit it seemed slightly better (could get into all gears, but still a struggle) but thats when I noticed the gearstick no longer self centers when in neutral. I am wondering if it was the gearbox all along, and as its got worse and I`ve had to use more force I have then broken something in the gearstick mechanism. I really dont know, the gearbox oil was changed after I bought it, but the Garage that changed all the fluids seemed kinda sketchy, so who knows if they actually did it.......
Well, changing out the gear oil and lubricating the shifter mechanism is always a good idea anyway.
Doing both is probably worth the investment to see if it fixes things.
If that doesn't work then you may need a new transmission, and you can decide whether that is worth the investment at that point.
Doing both is probably worth the investment to see if it fixes things.
If that doesn't work then you may need a new transmission, and you can decide whether that is worth the investment at that point.
Oh, one other thing,...
The RX8 has a rotory engine with a limited lifespan before they need to be rebuilt or replaced.
There are very few mechanics that know how to service that engine and they charge big dollars.
Find out how long your engine is expected to last and what condition yours is in before considering replacing the transmission.
You may need to replace both at the same time.
That's when things get really expensive.
The RX8 has a rotory engine with a limited lifespan before they need to be rebuilt or replaced.
There are very few mechanics that know how to service that engine and they charge big dollars.
Find out how long your engine is expected to last and what condition yours is in before considering replacing the transmission.
You may need to replace both at the same time.
That's when things get really expensive.
I am guessing it is something wrong in your linkage.
IME when a transmission goes you get 'slipping' e.g. your revs go up but your car doesn't go any faster in certain gears.
Also, if the RX-8 has requires the same Spec trans oil as the P5 and Miata... I would go with Motorcraft MTX-75 part no XT-M5-QS. The Miata guys swear by it and it eliminated a 3rd gear grind I had in one of my cars.
IME when a transmission goes you get 'slipping' e.g. your revs go up but your car doesn't go any faster in certain gears.
Also, if the RX-8 has requires the same Spec trans oil as the P5 and Miata... I would go with Motorcraft MTX-75 part no XT-M5-QS. The Miata guys swear by it and it eliminated a 3rd gear grind I had in one of my cars.
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