That may be one of the reasons why Mazda went with the newer and fatter fob... I never got more than a year out of the 2025 batteries in the old key remotes but my newer ones have given me over two years with no problems.I use the thicker 2032 in my 2016.5 fob, which specifies the thinner 2025. Works fine, longer life.
I tried this but it did not work, so I went to my Mazda dealer. For my 2020 CX5, one must push the lock button five times, I think. One of the people at the dealership pushed four and that did not fix the problem, but another person pushed five times and that did the trick.I'll bet you left the key in the car or close enough to activate the power save feature. The same thing happened to my extra fob and this solved the issue. I swapped the battery to no avail then remembered seeing this somewhere in the manual.
Turning off the power saving function
After you have turned off the power saving function according to the following
procedure, the hazard warning lights and sound operate*1 one time.
1. Press any of the buttons on the transmitter to make sure that the operation indicator light does not turn on/flash.
2. Press the lock button on the transmitter 4 times within 3 seconds to turn on the operation indicator light.
3. Press the lock button continuously for1.5 seconds or longer while the
operation indicator light turns on (for 5seconds).
I'm not sure what apparatus you're using to measure 3V DC coin cell batteries, but my Fluke multimeter with its 10 mOhm input impedance has no issue.Note that these button cells batteries may test above 3.0v using a digital meter and fail in a FOB. The batteries MUST be tested under load; the better purpose-built battery testers do loaded measurements.
Yes, 10 megaohm. We're measuring voltage, not current. My multimeter, used in the voltmeter setting, is correctly reading the battery's voltage.I assume you mean 10M ohm resistance, which is unloaded measurement. Exactly to my point. For example, a CR2032 test load is typically 190uA, or ~15k ohm.
I'm an EE, so thanks...
Yes, 10 megaohm. We're measuring voltage, not current. My multimeter, used in the voltmeter setting, is correctly reading the battery's voltage.
As a working EE for over 30 years, I've learned to have a thick skin when it comes to things like this. If you and the other person truly believe a load test on a 3v DC coin battery is necessary to determine whether or not it's good, I really don't know what to tell you.You're an EE who clearly doesn't understand that a battery needs a load on it to be properly tested.
10M ohm is NOT a load. To the battery it looks like an open circuit. Perhaps you missed that lesson in class?
Yes, your DMM is correctly reading the voltage of the battery, but it is NOT testing the battery correctly.
Is something wrong with the key inside the fob? I've only used ours once, just to make sure it worked.... there was one day where my fob battery went completely dead and I couldn't even unlock the car while at a store. Had to call my dad to get my wife's key fob and bring it to me, which was pretty annoying having to stand around outside the store for 30+ minutes.