Just got a 2016.5 CX-5 - Tips, Tricks and MPG

To be honest, I've been thinking back about that trip and I remember it showing over 40mpg on the return and I decided to make sure and calculate the mpg because I didn't believe the computer. I was wondering at the time if the wind shifted direction mid-day giving me favorable winds going both directions. The winds were kind of 'shifty' that day and driving along the front range mountains you can encounter weird crosswinds, etc., so I think that is very possible. \
I know from experience I would be lucky to get 30 mpg if I encounter headwinds. I usually slow down a bit as I don't know how else to handle them. I still might be getting 27 mpg for the worst parts.

I was looking at the owner's manual on how to operate the manual transmission and noticed it only has a page and a half on how to operate it. The section on how to operate the automatic is over six pages! :)
I've driven a Mazda 3 2.0 with a stick. I personally like mazda clutches. They tend to have a long travel point of essentially the entire pedal which is great. I found that the clutch was slightly lacking in feel. The gearbox felt great. Both the clutch and the gearbox performed well, even when being rushed through the higher RPM. Some older Nissan and Toyota manual's i've tried hated to be rushed and had weird clutch takeups. I find that Mazda's, Honda's are enthusiastic and eager during spirited shifting.
 
Any tips for getting scratches out of the plastic or cleaning the black plastic in general? I've tried cleaning it multiple times but it still feels dirty everywhere on the interior. Also looking for tips on cleaning the headboard. Previous owner had some messy ass kids/dogs in here lol


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I know what those marks are on the headliner. They are from bike tires. People hauling bikes in the back.

Ask me HOW I know. :D

Also someone said NO to plugs? Uh...pretty sure Mazda says plugs every 70K?
 
I have the same car - 2016 CX5 GT 2.5L. Bitter cold - end December till Jan. end mileage drops to low 20s, even colder - upper teens. This is my experience after owning car for now 8 yrs. During "normal" seasons I get 24 to 26 City / Hybrid driving and 29.5 to 33 mpg if only highway. Once every 3 months I go to Montreal, CA from NJ and if I keep speed under 65 then got, multiple times +35 mpg. Gas is Costco. Engine oil I religiously change if and only if goes to 20% as per vehicle. I put only Medcenter Mazda oil (Except once). Transmission, front and rear crank I replace every 50,000. Have never done upper body cleaning, MAF, throttle, etc. Changed air filter once when touched 40,000. Still looks brand new. I am at 70,000 miles. Keep my tires inflated at 39 using Costco free Nitrogen service. Check every 3 months. Tires are Michelin Snow peak rated. Had Falcon which was awesome. Tires and wheel is all OEM sizing.
I do have 2 observations - my mileage improved by 1 mpg to 1.5 mpg after putting the OEM wind deflector above my sun roof and adding a hood deflector OEM. I personally think sun roof deflector helped. I got them as a package, paying for the sun roof only. Few years ago. #2 - this car is ACUTELY susceptible to weather changes when it comes to mileage more than other cars I have owned.
 
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This car is ACUTELY susceptible to weather changes when it comes to mileage more than other cars I have owned.
Do you think that's because of the transmissions strategy during cold start to keep the torque converter "unlocked" (RPM's float higher than normal) To help with a faster and easier warmup? That seems to use a lot more fuel than usual.

As a general rule of thumb, I try to be particularly easy on the engine until the blue coolant light disappears, because the fuel trims are quite high during this period. Also, I don't idle, especially when the engine is cold. If it's REALLY cold out, i'll idle until the RPM drops. Usually, it's just until I back out the drive way, which is long enough for the RPM's to fall to normal anyways.
 
What blue coolant light?
Extreme cold, start car and look at the speedometer and RPM. You'll see a blue light towards the bottom, looks like an electrical grounding symbol, sideways. Its blue - can't miss it. I usually wait for it to go off if alone and if with my better half I dare not wait and in which drive slowly, softly.
 
Do you think that's because of the transmissions strategy during cold start to keep the torque converter "unlocked" (RPM's float higher than normal) To help with a faster and easier warmup? That seems to use a lot more fuel than usual.

As a general rule of thumb, I try to be particularly easy on the engine until the blue coolant light disappears, because the fuel trims are quite high during this period. Also, I don't idle, especially when the engine is cold. If it's REALLY cold out, i'll idle until the RPM drops. Usually, it's just until I back out the drive way, which is long enough for the RPM's to fall to normal anyways.
Nah - I start car at 5:45 AM, stop car at 7:40 AM, start car at 7:30 PM, stop car at 8:15 PM. 2 starts only. The blue coolant light turning off has insignificant impact. 5 days/week. Weekend I don't use this car. Once monthly long drives but again 1 start usually.
 
Extreme cold, start car and look at the speedometer and RPM. You'll see a blue light towards the bottom, looks like an electrical grounding symbol, sideways. Its blue - can't miss it. I usually wait for it to go off if alone and if with my better half I dare not wait and in which drive slowly, softly.
This may only be on some older models, never seen it on my '20 or '24. Both have been driven in very cold temperatures, well below freezing.
 

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Just an FYI. I have a copy of the Consumer Reports (Sept 2024) used car buying guide. Under the section "MOST RELIABLE CARS FOR UNDER $15K.
Of course: 2016 CX5.
 
Just an FYI. I have a copy of the Consumer Reports (Sept 2024) used car buying guide. Under the section "MOST RELIABLE CARS FOR UNDER $15K.
Of course: 2016 CX5.

Skyactivs: one of the most reliable vehicles period. Lol
 
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