I want to buy a 2023 CX-5. What are the top major issues?

[Chocolate]

Can we not fight about if CD is an issue or not.. CD issues has it's own thread which has been linked. You've all said your own opinions, there's nothing more to be done. I understand both sides, but everything in life is an opinion, so say yours and move on if someone keeps disagreeing.. the OP and everyone else reading the thread has seen what you both think, so trying to convince one person who thinks otherwise is besides the point of the thread, which is for the OP and future viewers to see people's opinions on major issues with the Cx-5. Hope this post isn't too rude or moderator-like, but this debate seems like neither side will agree with the other, and everyone else can see your opinion and pick which they agree with, so no need to keep butting heads in my opinion🥰

It's important to note that the Toyota RAV4, the world's most reliable SUV, doesn't have any engine problems whatsoever.

2019 MAZDA CX-5 SUV AWD | NHTSA

www.nhtsa.gov

2019 TOYOTA RAV4 SUV AWD | NHTSA

www.nhtsa.gov

 

[yrwei52]

I think when most people say the 'current generation' they mean what is new right now, not model generation. There are huge differences between a 2017 and 2023 CX5. Hell, in 2018 there were something like 200 small changes made to improve NVH. CD came in in 2018, the new infotainment system came in 2021 along with remote start. Turbo models have upgraded suspensions and brakes. Not to mention the rolling changes to parts when issues pop up

I was having discussions with 7eregrine about the major engine issues on “current gen” CX-5 which is experiencing. He had mentioned “the C-D issues were long ago cleared up. Please share what other engine issues the current gen CX5 is experiencing?”. Did it sound like he’s talking about only 2023 MY to you?

Yea, pretty serious. The C-D issues were long ago cleared up. Please share what other engine issues the current gen CX5 is experiencing?

As for these LED worries...seriously? These LED's will outlast your ownership of the vehicle. There was an issue on some 16's.
16s.
There have been no headlight issues since.

 

[Chocolate]

 

[skid00skid0]

It's important to note that the Toyota RAV4, the world's most reliable SUV, doesn't have any engine problems whatsoever.

2019 MAZDA CX-5 SUV AWD | NHTSA

www.nhtsa.gov

2019 TOYOTA RAV4 SUV AWD | NHTSA

www.nhtsa.gov

You need to make it clear that your post is sarcastic.

Or click on 'engine' in the provided link...?!

 

[Chocolate]

It wasn't clear?

 

[Cooter Boy]

And no worries (for a CX-5). Even if these LED DRLs fail (they eventually will due to the corrosive gas emitted by the rubber seal of the headlights), you can use the recall to get them replaced for free (in the US).

BTW, both of mine failed within 3 years, and the new-car warranty covered the replacement. At the time it’d be $1,200 EACH if they weren’t covered under warranty.

A few lives ago I paid around 79¢ for sealed beam headlights. Took 5-10 minutes to replace.

 

[yrwei52]

A few lives ago I paid around 79¢ for sealed beam headlights. Took 5-10 minutes to replace.

Yes, yes. And the motor oil was 79¢ ~ 99¢ a quart in a rounded metal / paper can which isn’t too costly even if you had a Chevy Vega and had to carry a case of oil (24 cans) in the trunk!

Yeah - good old Vega. Had a part-time job in college. The company had a Vega station wagon they used for deliveries. In the back they carried a case of motor oil.

 

[Cooter Boy]

Yes, yes. And the motor oil was 79¢ ~ 99¢ a quart in a rounded metal / paper can which isn’t too costly even if you had a Chevy Vega and had to carry a case of oil (24 cans) in the trunk!

My first car was a ‘61 Corvair that leaked like a sieve. It was the seal between the engine and tranny, the equivalent of the “rear main” in a normal car.

I would keep a gallon can of “remanufactured oil” I could buy for $1-2 in the back seat. The good old days. Cost maybe $4 to fill the tank. 😎

I finally snapped the input shaft by beating it so I had to pull the engine and separate it from the transaxle. The new OEM shaft was just under $10. The seal was probably a buck or so, don’t remember. 🙂

 

[wlong01]

My first car was a ‘61 Corvair that leaked like a sieve. It was the seal between the engine and tranny, the equivalent of the “rear main” in a normal car.

I would keep a gallon can of “remanufactured oil” I could buy for $1-2 in the back seat. The good old days. Cost maybe $4 to fill the tank. 😎

I finally snapped the input shaft by beating it so I had to pull the engine and separate it from the transaxle. The new OEM shaft was just under $10. The seal was probably a buck or so, don’t remember. 🙂

Leaking oil was the least of the Corvair's worrys. Asphyxiation from carbon monoxide was a bigger problem.
By the way my first car was a 65 Corvair.
Nice car and never left me stranded except once when the fan belt came off on the interstate but luckily I was able to put it back on and get home.
Found out that one of the guides that holds the belt in place was missing. Found one at the scrap yard and everything was good.

 

[Ole Remus]

My first was a 64 Corvair Spider with 4 on the floor. Mine leaked from the pushrod tube O rings. I liked that car. It handled very well!

 

[wlong01]

My first was a 64 Corvair Spider with 4 on the floor. Mine leaked from the pushrod tube O rings. I liked that car. It handled very well!

Best friend had a Spider. Not sure the year. White with Red convertible top, 4spd.
Weren't they the ones with two carbs?

 

[Ole Remus]

Mine - Burgandy with black bucket seats and interior. Cost me $75 and it was 5 years old!

They came in 4 versions, single carb 90-95hp, dual carbs 110hp, quad carbs 140hp, and turbocharged 150hp, then later 180hp.

 

[7eregrine]

Yrwie and I aren't fighting. We are discussing. Love ya buddy.

It wasn't clear?

It was clear.

 

[ColoradoDriver]

You’re saying the current generation CX-5 (gen-2 CX-5) in general there’s no major engine problems, now you just admitted the CD problem on gen-2 CX-5 were long gone? Are you saying the fallen rocker arm problem wasn’t a major engine problem?

The CD issues were long ago cleared up only on fallen rocker arm part. Now we started to see cracked cylinder head and failing switchable hydraulic lash adjuster problem on the 2.5L NA with CD however you think it’s rare. The Russian YouTube video you didn’t watch in the link, has clearly showed the 2mm thin wall at the cracked area that’s the enough evidence to me. Apparently you didn’t read the entire thread, especially those posts by edmaz.

Yeah my nephew's 2019 CX-5 had the issue with the hydraulic lash adjuster. I'm not going to chime in on how common CD issues are, but I am going to say I'm not a fan of "fixing" what isn't broken, and the 2.5L NA was just fine as it was in Gen 1. CD doesn't appear to have added any MPG benefit really, so what's the point aside from adding additional complication and failure points.

Really much my same criticism of Gen 2 in general. Overcomplicate what was just simple and worked in my 2014.

 

[ch3no2]

View attachment 319534

 

[ceric]

Yeah my nephew's 2019 CX-5 had the issue with the hydraulic lash adjuster. I'm not going to chime in on how common CD issues are, but I am going to say I'm not a fan of "fixing" what isn't broken, and the 2.5L NA was just fine as it was in Gen 1. CD doesn't appear to have added any MPG benefit really, so what's the point aside from adding additional complication and failure points.

Really much my same criticism of Gen 2 in general. Overcomplicate what was just simple and worked in my 2014.

Agree. Mazda needs to forego all the gimmicks and work on real breakthrough technologies.

iStop, iEloop (my '16 Mazda6 GT has it), CD, .... all gimmicks in my book.

How much do those help MPG in real world? How much do they cost the owners extra in future maintenance and repair?

The battery of my Mazda6 w/ iEloop requires *programming*.. dealer charges $500 for new battery and programming (lasts about 3 yrs). That is $400 more than a regular battery I can replace myself. At CA gas price ($4/gallon), that is 100 gallons of gas.
If this iEloop improves 2mpg (which I doubt), and assuming 12k miles/yr and 25mpg, that saves me about 100 gallons of gas after 3 yrs.

Yes, it is about breaking even. Why bother?
I was told that if the supercapacitor fails, it will cause about $1000 to replace (parts, labor, and programming) Fingers crossed.

 

[Cooter Boy]

Agree. Mazda needs to forego all the gimmicks and work on real breakthrough technologies.

iStop, iEloop (my '16 Mazda6 GT has it), CD, .... all gimmicks in my book.

How much do those help MPG in real world? How much do they cost the owners extra in future maintenance and repair?

The battery of my Mazda6 w/ iEloop requires *programming*.. dealer charges $500 for new battery and programming (lasts about 3 yrs). That is $400 more than a regular battery I can replace myself. At CA gas price ($4/gallon), that is 100 gallons of gas.
If this iEloop improves 2mpg (which I doubt), and assuming 12k miles/yr and 25mpg, that saves me about 100 gallons of gas after 3 yrs.

Yes, it is about breaking even. Why bother?
I was told that if the supercapacitor fails, it will cause about $1000 to replace (parts, labor, and programming) Fingers crossed.

What in the world is the iEloop??

 

[yrwei52]

What in the world is the iEloop??

Mazda’s “i-ELOOP is a regenerative braking system. When you depress the brake pedal or use engine braking, the kinetic energy that occurs is converted to electrical energy by the power generator and the converted electrical energy is stored in the rechargeable battery (capacitor and battery).”

Such system has been used by many vehicles for a bit better fuel economy. You’ll find such system on every hybrid and EV such as Toyota Prius. Luckily Mazda has never put i-ELOOP on CX-5 for the US market.

 

[7eregrine]

The battery of my Mazda6 w/ iEloop requires *programming*.. dealer charges $500 for new battery and programming (lasts about 3 yrs). That is $400 more than a regular battery I can replace myself.

Eh...batteries aren't $100 anymore as I just found out recently.

 

[HardRightEdg]

Eh...batteries aren't $100 anymore as I just found out recently.

Well, $140 would get you a very good battery.

Robot or human?