How-to: Install Protege Alternator, Power Steering, Water Pump Pulley Set

505zoom

Breathe
:
2003 MSP #119
- Alternator, Power Steering, and Water Pump Pulley Set Install -

For power steering pulley only, do steps 2-7, and 17-20.
For alternator pulley only, do steps 1, 8b-13, 16a, and 19-20.
For water pump pulley only, do steps 8a, 10a, 10b, 14-16, and 19-20.

Required Tools & Items:

10mm - 17mm sockets and wrenches
Shop towels and/or rags
Pliers
Oil filter wrench (strap style, skinny)
New accessory belts (recommended but not required)
24mm impact socket and impact wrench (alt pulley only)
Floor jack (alt and WP pulleys)
Jack stands (alt and WP pulleys)
1qt power steering fluid (PS pulley only)
* Heavy Duty pulley puller (PS pulley only)
* Hydraulic press (PS pulley only)
* Table vice (PS pulley only)
** Wood block (PS pulley only)
** Hard rubber mallet (PS pulley only)


* It is recommended that you take the PS pump to a shop and have them take the old pulley off and press the new one on for you. If you plan to do that, you do not need the * tools.

** If you have the hydraulic press, or have a shop swap the PS pulley, you do not need these.

Step 1)

Start off by disconnecting your negative battery terminal. This is not just a warning or recommendation, it is a requirement since you will be working with the alternator. If you don't know where the negative terminal on the battery is, you shouldn't attempt to do this install yourself, so I will skip the picture for this step. :)

Step 2)

Disconnect the power steering fluid lines.

A) If you don't want to drain ALL of the fluid and then bleed the system after you are done, disconnect this line first:

step2a.JPG


B) Drain the fluid out of the fill bottle into a can or cup, and discard properly. Then, disconnect this line:

step2b.JPG


Make sure that you keep both washers with the bolt you removed here, set them aside for re-installation later.


Step 3)

Remove the power steering pump.

A) Start off by loosening the side tensioner bolt, located underneath the pulley on the passenger side. Shown here:

step3a.JPG


B) Loosen the pivot mounting bolt shown here:

step3b.JPG


C) With those loose you can remove the belt. Now go ahead and turn those 2 bolts the rest of the way off.


Step 4)

At this point it should be free. Pull it out of there and disconnect this wire harness, and then remove the sensor that it is plugged into:

step4a.JPG



Step 5)

This is where I recommend that you take the pump to a shop and have them pull the old pulley off and press the new one on.

I would have a picture of what I did for this step, but I had to scramble down to AutoZone before they closed and borrow their 5-ton puller. I ended up pulling mine off on the floor in front of their registers, lol. The stock pulley will more than likely not be reusable after pulling it off.

If you decide to do this yourself, continue with the next step. If you have the pulley swapped by a shop, you are done with the power steering pump for now so go ahead and skip to step 8.


Step 6)

Make sure you put a nut between the puller screw and where it pushes on the pump shaft. The nut needs to be small enough to not overlap onto the pulley, but give you a brace between the tool and the pump shaft. If you don't do this, it will expand the pump shaft outward as you are pulling the pulley off, and nobody wants that.

Here is a pic that shows where to place the nut, and it also shows the wimpy puller that literally met it's demise from trying to get this pulley off:

step6a.JPG


Put the pump in a vice. After you are set up with a adequate puller and the "protecting nut" is in place, pull the pulley off.

Step 7)

A) Clean the pump shaft thoroughly.

B) Place the pulley in an oven at 300 degrees for at least 10 minutes. Remove the pulley from the oven and as quickly as possible, press the pulley on. Use a hydraulic press, or if you don't have one, use the block of wood and mallet to press the pulley onto the shaft. If you use the mallet and wood block, make sure you are extra careful getting it on there straight. I can not emphasize this enough. Pressing it on crooked will ruin the pulley and possibly the pump shaft. You also need to make sure you press it so it is flush with the tip of the pump shaft. I pressed mine on a little too far in the pic, and had to use some shims to get the pulley lining up with the others.



You are done with the power steering pump for now, so go ahead and set it aside for later.

step7a.JPG


Step 8)

A) Break the 4 water pump pulley bolts loose. Do not loosen them very much yet! All you want is that first little turn to make them easier to loosen later when the tension is off of the belt. Think of it like loosening your lugnuts before jacking up the car.

step8a.JPG


B) Speaking of jacking up the car, you are going to want to do that now if you haven't already. Use secure points for the jack and stands!


Step 9)

Moving on to the alternator, start off by disconnecting the wires to it.

step9a.JPG



Step 10)

A) Loosen the alternator side tensioner bolt.

step10a.JPG


B) From underneath the car, loosen the pivot mounting bolt.

step10b.JPG


C) Remove the belt and then remove the mounting bolts that you already loosened.

D) If the car is not lowered, you can drop the alternator out through the bottom and skip to step 11. If you are running a 626 oil filter you will have to remove it to get the alternator out. A large exhaust can also complicate this.


Step 11)

If the car is lowered or the exhaust is in the way, you probably won't be able to get it out of there without removing a lot of extra parts, so you're going to want to rotate the alternator so the pulley faces the ground and let it rest there on the driveshaft.


Step 12)

Use the strap wrench to hold the pulley, and hit the 24mm nut with the impact wrench. The pulley will come right off now.

step12a.JPG


From here on out, you are more or less going reverse order on everything. Rather than post all the pictures twice, I am going to just type the process. Look back to the disassembly pics if you need any help on the location of stuff.

Step 13)

Put the new alternator pulley on the same way you took the old one off, and put the alternator back in place in the reverse order. Do not tighten down the bolts yet, just get the alternator back in place and hook the wires back up for now.


Step 14)

Moving back to the water pump, remove those 4 bolts that you loosened earlier, and the pulley will come right off.


Step 15)

Put the new water pump pulley on, the recessed side should face the motor and the flat side should face outward. Tighten down the 4 bolts as tight as you can get them, use the strap wrench to hold the pulley.


Step 16)

A) Put your new belt on there, make sure it is lined up properly, and then tighten down the tensioner and mounting bolts for the alternator.

step16a.JPG


B) Go back to the water pump pulley bolts one last time, and tighten them the rest of the way down.


Step 17)

Put the power steering pump back into place, but don't tighten the bolts all the way down yet. Put your new belt on there and make sure it is on all 3 pulleys properly. After the belt is lined up, tighten down the tensioner and the mounting bolts.


Step 18)

Replace the power steering fluid lines, and refill the bottle with fresh fluid.


Step 19)

Double check all of your bolts, belts, hoses, and wires that you have been working with. At this point there should be no leftover bolts, nuts, or washers. Make sure that there is clearance between the WP pulley and the PS belt. Hook the battery back up.


Step 20)

Fire up the car and check that everything is operating normally. Make sure the pulleys are rotating straight and not wobbling at all.


Step 21)

A) If everything is correctly done at this point, lower the car back down and turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times. Engine needs to be running.

B) Top off the fill bottle with fluid, and you are done. (alright)
 
wow great write-up! (2thumbs) thanks a lot! I think I'll be able to do this myself in the spring as long as I can get a shop to put on the PS pulley...
 
How much of an increase do you feel with just those 3 pulleys?

It was noticeable... not breathtaking different but the gain was definitely there. The Beltronics showed an average 6hp difference before and after for me, and that feels about right.

I did 3 runs before and 3 runs after. 1 slight uphill, 1 slight downhill going the other way, and one flat ground for the before runs. Then I hit those same 3 spots for the after runs. Ran it from a stop up to the top of second each time, and recorded the runs on the accelerometer.

Uphill - 5hp gain
Flat - 6hp gain
Downhill - 7hp gain

So an average of 6, not bad at all. This was with the car boosting 7 spike / 6 hold.
 
Nice write up. I think I was the first one to install the alternator pulley and had to use the same method you described. Pretty easy if you have the tools.

The water pump pulley looks straight forward. I just hate having to loosen the damn alternator. Why couldn't Mazda use a serpentine belt with an easy to use spring loaded tensioner?!?!?!

I'm due for a fluid change in my power steering anyway. I'm still deciding on whether I should take the pump to a shop or not.
 
Did my install this wknd since my alt crapped out thursday last week. Thankful for the fact that I hadn't already done this just to have to do it again after alt died. Anyway, great write up, nice pics. I actually did the ps on the car by taking it off the bracket, undoing the res & loosening the lines from the body. This allowed me to twist the pump straight up with room to get the puller on without opening system up & dealing with fluid. I mounted pump back in bracket then used anti sieze, 3 different length bolts & a fat washer to pull it back on with 3/8 drive 12mm socket. The bad part for me was getting the alt all the way out of the car. What a puzzle, had to move adj bracket, cc, vacuum canister & twist,flip,roll & pull it out past the intake,ps line & body. Had the new alt all ready with the new pulley so just flopped it back in in reverse order that it came out. wp was no issue at all. On a audible note, those who stated they heard a tapping bearing like sound after reassembly have overtightened the belts. Mine did it until I backed off the alt belt. IMO, the water pump is the complainer. That's where the sound seemed to be coming from. After loosening both belts a bit it stopped. No squealing from loose & no bearing stress from too tight. Hope nobody drove around much like that.
 
Last edited:
installed all 4 this weekend. the alt did suck ass to remove. i had sears use a press for the P/S lol. only place open and i figured it would be better than me doin it. yeah i was wrong. they destroyed the stock pulley and it looks like dropped the new one cuz there was a pretty good nick in it that i had to sand down. and after getting the pump on, saw that it wasn't pressed on completely straight so it's got a slight wobble to it. i drove around for a couple hours after the install and it seems fine for now.

crank was easier than i thought. i didn't need the SST to pull the pulley off, just wiggle it and hope the key doesn't break lol.
 
Last edited:
How do you replace water pump for a Protege?
Hello, I need to know how to replace a water pump for the 99 Protege ES 1.8. I've checked youtube but most of it is the 626 models. It looks a little difficult in that tight compact area were the belts are at next to the motor mount. Maybe someone can steer me in the right direction for help.

thanks for any help.
 
How do you replace water pump for a Protege?
Hello, I need to know how to replace a water pump for the 99 Protege ES 1.8. I've checked youtube but most of it is the 626 models. It looks a little difficult in that tight compact area were the belts are at next to the motor mount. Maybe someone can steer me in the right direction for help.

thanks for any help.

not sure on the 1.8 but if it's setup like the 2.0 you'll need to remove the motor mount, removing the passenger side tire and the plastic undercarrige might help too
 
How do you replace water pump for a Protege?
Hello, I need to know how to replace a water pump for the 99 Protege ES 1.8. I've checked youtube but most of it is the 626 models. It looks a little difficult in that tight compact area were the belts are at next to the motor mount. Maybe someone can steer me in the right direction for help.

thanks for any help.

Just follow these instructions.
 
Will I need new hardware or pulley shaft for the Medieval PS pulley swap? Bore hole seems larger than OEM.
 
Back