HOW TO: independent fogs on a GT

i originally got this walk through from another site, but i found that there were several issues. the pictures weren't very good, and the descriptions could have been a lot better. i decided to make my own more comprehensive how to for making independent fogs for a GT. so here it goes...

tools needed



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you will need some 22-18 gauge wire, wire cutters, some sort of pliers (i used the adjustable because if you open it up a little it will give a flatter pinch on an upcoming component i will explain), electrical tape, coat hanger (or equivalent item to fish the wire through a hole), philips head screw driver (as shown it is in my victorinox multitool piece)

the other kits you see are a terminal kit (i used 12-10 gauge wire kit because the male and female connectors are the right sizes for the relay, and because i already had the kit laying around), and a 22-18 guage tap splice kit shown here



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those items, and really whatever else you need for this project, can be found at any old radio shack. the terminal kit i got was full of other hardware that isn't needed for this product. if you can find just the males and just the female connectors (get a half dozen of each for just-in-case stuff) then that's all you need.

this next section will better prepare you for the install, it deals with how to use the tap splice

the tap splice looks like this



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for illustrative purposes, this red wire represents the wire you will be retrieving and tapping into



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the wire to be tapped gets placed in the tap where the opening is. it has a sort of valley that guides the wire into the proper place.



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the next picture shows a black wire, which will be the one you run from the fuse box under the hood back into your car and into the steering column. it gets placed into the open hole to one side of the tap like so



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the next part is crucial. although using this tap kit makes for a very clean way to splice, one can still manage to **** this up. the metal tab you see is the part that will be pinched down onto the wires you have inserted. it is a combination of pinching, and slicing through the wires' jacket to get to bare metal. the wire that is being tapped must be straight through its area, and the wire that is tapping in needs to be all the way up against the other part of the inside. one side is blocked off, so in the picture the black wire is into the hole as far as it can go



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take your time, make sure youve got the wires exactly where they need to be, and use the pliers to push down on the metal tab so that it is flush with the top plastic, like so



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the flap that hangs to the side of the tap can now be secured by folding it over, and clicking it down



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now that you're a pro, head out to the car and start the real work

disclaimer: for piece of mind, if you want to disconnect the battery before going into the fuse panel or opening the steering column, go ahead and do so. inside the steering column you will see some yellow wires that are dedicated for your airbag. if youre nervous about going near them, undo the negative terminal to your battery

you're gonna need your philips to take screws out from the bottom of your steering column. now, there are 3 in total, but the one in the back is a b**** to get to because of the angle. if you have some sort of universal joint that can connect to a philips bit you can use that. if not, just take the front 2 out and you'll have to just bend the bottom cover out of your way



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the top of the column will pop right off, and if you have some duct tape you can use that to keep it up and away from where you'll be working



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before you pull the bottom down, however, you'll need to pop out the bulb that is in there to light up your ignition when it's dark. it takes some wiggling, but it will come right out



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my suggestion is you take your spool of wire and work your way from the inside of the car to the outside. this way, you can route it into the fuse box, and have the spool inside the car where it can freely roll around while you feed it through.

so you need to locate the hole that you'll be routing the wire through. it will be behind insulation, up near the clutch side. this is the best picture i could get



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run your coat hanger through this hole and you should see it pop out of your engine bay right behind the battery box in this general area



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secure the wire to the end of the coat hanger that's inside your vehicle, and pull it through to the engine bay. at this point you can route it, zip-tie it, loop-d-loop it however you want in the engine bay, just get it to your fuse box and leave a little slack

back to the inside, it's now time to locate the wire you will be tapping into

on the side of the steering column that contains the stalk for the light switches (left if you're sitting and looking at the steering wheel) you will see plenty of wires

the one you will be tapping into is going to be black with 2 red stripes (1 on each opposing side), and it will have silver dots....like this



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now, with your newly found tapping skills, cut off whatever length you feel neccessary to fulfill whatever route you take up your column and tap into that wire



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the real one is the one circled in yellow. the other one you see was one of my failed attempts to find the correct wire from the first write up i looked at. i decided to just leave it there

back under your hood, go ahead and pop open the fuse panel lid, and locate the following 2 things: in the red circle is your fog relay, in the yellow circle is an empty fuse space that you will be using later. in the pic there is no fog relay because i already had it out. it can be a pain to get out, but try to do it by hand with no tools as to not damage the casing



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btw...the fuse will only go in one way, so keep that in mind as you wire it back up, as it will not be going back in its original place

the next thing you'll want to do is start making some little jumper wires. so we don't get confused when i start saying "male" and "female" when refering to connections..."male" will be the part that gets inserted into the "female" part of the connectors

with the end of the wire going into the fuse panel that you just ran through the firewall, unsheath some of the end (i just use my teeth), and crimp it into a female connector

now make 3 jumper wires, using the same de-sheathing and crimping method as mentioned above, about the length of your hand. one end being male, and one end being female on each jumper wire. this is so you can run 3 wires from the male connections on the relay, to female connections on the fuse panel

now onto the connections

this is what your relay looks like



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take 2 of the jumper wires and connect them to the male terminals circled in red. those wires will be inserted back to their original spots in the fuse panel via those jumper wires you made. so the outer male terminal on the relay will go right back to the outer female terminal on the fuse panel...and inner terminal to inner terminal

you are connecting the wire running through your firewall to the relay terminal in blue

the terminal in green is going to be jumped via your last jumper wire to the empty fuse slot i circled in yellow on the image before.

but before you go shoving that jumper into the empty fuse slot, take your cutters and snip in right down the middle like this



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this is so it will fit. just make sure when you do put it in there you do it in the space towards the front of your car, that's where the connection is made. like this



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now that all of your connections are made, they should look something like this on the relay



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i purposefully bent the terminals on the relay so the connections wouldn't be pressing up against each other. if you do the same, bend them slightly so they don't break

the end product should look something like this (the one jumper that is supposed to go in that empty fuse slot was not connected in the picture, sorry)



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the other instructions recommended the jumper from the empty fuse slot to the relay be fused. you can do it if you want, and i may or may not, but you can find a fused jumper in any automotive store

after all is said and done, you can do the following with KOEO or KOER:

just fogs



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fogs with running lights



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fogs with headlights



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and finally, fogs with headlights and high beams



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So what wire did you tap in to in the steering harness? I'm assuming that it is the control wire from the switch. Is that correct?
 
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