help

[WLAJR1998]

I have an 02 Protege 5 with Haltech E6X. My car won't start when under 45 degrees outside. It will start and runs for a few seconds and then dies. There is a relay by my gear shifter that clicks on and off and cuts the fuel. I believe the IAC is bypassed through it, but I don't know what else. If I heat up the intake air temp sensor it will start and run. It will run if the vaccuum line to the map sensor is unhooked (poorly of course but it doesn't shut the car off). Is there a way to retune the haltech for a cold start situation? Thanks

 

[Captain KRM P5]

you need to go into the map marked "fuel air correction" with HalwinX and adjust the value for the temperatures your car is in. it is likely dumping too much or not enough fuel.

 

[WLAJR1998]

I Have Moved It All Around And Nothing Changes As Far As The Starting Problem. What Would Cut The Fuel? It Does Run Rich. Is There Any Setup Option To Allow The Car To Start At Colder Temps?

 

[Captain KRM P5]

what do you mean you have "moved it all around". you cannot simply tell the haltech you are in cold weather. the haltech reads that the air temp is X degrees and is going to make adjustments to the overall map based the value put into it for X degree. adjusting the main fuel map is also a very bad idea, all you need to do is lower the value in the Fuel Air Correction grid.

i've attached images to this post to help illustrate what i mean. the second picture is your Fuel Air Temp Correction screen. see the values along the bottom? Those are the temperatures stated in degrees. The vertical axis (up and down) represent the amount of correction the Haltech is being told to add. The gray arrow atop the green bar is where the car is currently at temp wise, so you would need to select that bar and decrease it.

ultimately, if you don't have a wideband or don't really know what you are doing, its probably best to have a shop tune this. not calling your competency into question, but tuning is not something that one can "just do" with a few simple clicks.

 

[WLAJR1998]

No Matter How Much I Adjust The Correction %, It Still Dies After Start Up. Is There A Way To Convert It To Farenheit Because Mine Reads In Celcius. Does The Post Start Enrichment Map Make A Difference? I Have Played With It For A While Now And Nothing Seems To Correct This Problem. It Is Something Electrical Cutting The Power To That Relay. It Clicks Once When The Car Is Started And Then Again In A Few Seconds, Then The Car Dies. If It Does Start And Idle, The Second The Gas Pedal Is Pressed, It Dies. In Warm Weather, The Relay Only Clicks When Started And Not Again. As The Intake Air Temp Gets Warmer, The Relay Will Click Off And On Until The Car Runs.

 

[downtube]

dude you are really hurting my brain starting every word upper-case. plus you're gonna wear out your pinkies with all that shifting.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

No Matter How Much I Adjust The Correction %, It Still Dies After Start Up. Is There A Way To Convert It To Farenheit Because Mine Reads In Celcius. Does The Post Start Enrichment Map Make A Difference? I Have Played With It For A While Now And Nothing Seems To Correct This Problem. It Is Something Electrical Cutting The Power To That Relay. It Clicks Once When The Car Is Started And Then Again In A Few Seconds, Then The Car Dies. If It Does Start And Idle, The Second The Gas Pedal Is Pressed, It Dies. In Warm Weather, The Relay Only Clicks When Started And Not Again. As The Intake Air Temp Gets Warmer, The Relay Will Click Off And On Until The Car Runs.

i did not have my haltech wired to a relay, what relay are you talking about? its pretty common, even when tuned well, to have to let the car warm up on the haltech for at least ten to fifteen seconds before driving it. this is the territory you get into with standalones. if you have the newest version of halwinx you can switch to imperial measurements but honestly since it tells you what range you are in while the car is running, in real time, there is no advantage to using imperial versus SI units.

 

[WLAJR1998]

The electronic part of the IAC is bypassed through it but I don't know what else. It is a four wire relay. Something reads the intake air temp and cuts power to the relay. The car won't run for 10-15 seconds, it dies within 3 seconds.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

can you email me a copy of your map? ken@protegegarage.com

 

[WLAJR1998]

unfortunately i have a carputer but it is not hooked to the internet right now and I don't have a laptop, the map was very similar to the one you posted. Once it is running, it is fine the way the map is set up. A/F ratio ok. I will try to take a picture and email it. If it is getting flooded, is there something electrical cutting the fuel? It will restart every time I turn it on, but dies a few seconds later. If it was flooded, it would have trouble starting at all. I'm sorry this might not make much sense but I have been on alot of forums and NOBODY has had this problem. I have to put a spaceheater next to the cai to trick the car into starting. I will try to adjust the map some more and try to get a pic for you. The o2 sensor is on a 120 second delay so I don't imagine it is sending a signal to cut the fuel but I could be wrong. Could the IAT be bad even if its registers temp? I appreciate your help.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

i'm telling you, its the map and its corrections. if the IAT were bad, the haltech would not work, period. its a pass/fail sensor, it either works or it does not work. there is no fuel cut unless you program it into the haltech and its only for overboost.

 

[WLAJR1998]

ok, I am still trying to send you a picture of the map
Do other maps need to be changed also, like coolant-air temp map, post start enrichment, etc?

 

[Captain KRM P5]

i don't need a picture, just send me the map file itself