Hardwiring Dash cam

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21CX5 Signature
Hello,
I want to install/hardwire a dash cam on my 21 CX5 and not clear if an A-Pillar has to be completely removed to run the wires or the wires can be tucked behind the headliner then on top of the A-Pillar and dawn to the fuse box. If the A-Piller has to be removed how difficult is to remove it and then reinstall it again, can someone point me to a good YouTube video?
 

sm1ke

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:
Canada
:
'18 CX-9 Signature

It's not a YouTube video, but the pictures should be good enough. Keep in mind that this was done on a 2018 CX-9. I'm not sure if the process to remove the A-pillar cover is the same, but you'll want to run the power cable down the front of the A-pillar and around the base near the dashboard, instead of just crossing over it. This ensures that the power cable doesn't interfere with curtain airbag deployment.
 
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21CX5 Signature

It's not a YouTube video, but the pictures should be good enough. Keep in mind that this was done on a 2018 CX-9. I'm not sure if the process to remove the A-pillar cover is the same, but you'll want to run the power cable down the front of the A-pillar and around the base near the dashboard, instead of just crossing over it. This ensures that the power cable doesn't interfere with curtain airbag deployment.
Thank you.
 
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South Carolina
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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
If you mount it in the corner, you can simply run the wires down the side, without even taking the A pillar panel off.
 

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sm1ke

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Canada
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'18 CX-9 Signature
A lot of people say that the pillar has to be removed completely to run wires behind the air bag

The cover of the pillar is removed/loosened so that you have better access to the existing wire loom. Securing the wire to the existing wire loom with zip ties is safer because it ensures that the cable doesn't "sag" in front of the airbag or hang on the tethers that hold the cover in place. It also ensures that there is no potential "rattle" from loose cabling. I did not remove the cover completely in my pictures, I just loosened it. There was plenty of room to work.

I originally planned to just tuck the wires as @theblooms did, but decided against that when I couldn't guarantee that the cable wouldn't sag over time (due to bumps and vibration from the road/audio system).
 
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South Carolina
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12 MZ5 13 CX-5
There's not really any way for the wire to sag though.

Trust me, I'm a STICKLER for safety. If there was even a *thought* of something not being exactly right, I wouldn't have done it.

This crap here though? In my opinion, only a complete MORON would do this garbage.
 

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21CX5 Signature
The cover of the pillar is removed/loosened so that you have better access to the existing wire loom. Securing the wire to the existing wire loom with zip ties is safer because it ensures that the cable doesn't "sag" in front of the airbag or hang on the tethers that hold the cover in place. It also ensures that there is no potential "rattle" from loose cabling. I did not remove the cover completely in my pictures, I just loosened it. There was plenty of room to work.

I originally planned to just tuck the wires as @theblooms did, but decided against that when I couldn't guarantee that the cable wouldn't sag over time (due to bumps and vibration from the road/audio system).
So if I leave the pillar pried a little bit still connected to the tether I would still be able to snap it back in place after I run the wire ?
 
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21CX5 Signature
Why don't you tap off the rearview mirror power and ground using an adapter? No running wires are necessary. There are several threads on it and it's totally factory looking
My understanding is that if I tap of the mirror parking mode will not work becouse when engine is of there is no power going to the mirror, and if it would it would drain the battery.
 
My understanding is that if I tap of the mirror parking mode will not work becouse when engine is of there is no power going to the mirror, and if it would it would drain the battery.
You can choose either option when connecting to the mirror as there are both constant voltage pin that is always on when the car is off and a pin that only supplies voltage when the ignition is switched on. In order for parking mode to work, the dashcam must be powered up with the ignition off and will pull some minor voltage. It will not drain the battery unless the car is not started for a week or longer or is in bad condition to begin with.
 
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21CX5 Signature
You can choose either option when connecting to the mirror as there are both constant voltage pin that is always on when the car is off and a pin that only supplies voltage when the ignition is switched on. In order for parking mode to work, the dashcam must be powered up with the ignition off and will pull some minor voltage. It will not drain the battery unless the car is not started for a week or longer or is in bad condition to begin with.
You mean I should use

Dongar Mirror to Dash Cam Power Adapter​

If yes it’s already premade just have to plug it in I don’t think there is pins on the adapter that can be taped to. Initially I was planning to install dash cam with external battery if go mirror route I can not use external battery….right?
 
The dongar adapter that is premade is for only powering the dashcam on with the switched ignition. I don't think there is one made with the pin configured for constant power though It can be opened and modified or you can purchase an invisicord and put the micro pins into the mirror harness adapter yourself and make your own but one pin would go the the constant power pin on the mirror harness instead of the switched power pin on the same harness. It's quite simple. You can use the battery as well with the mirror power but that would be if you used the dongar adapter which is for switched power. It would be wired inline with the cord that plugs into the dashcam itself. (Cam has a mini or micro USB input for power) You'd then have to hide the battery pack in the headliner or somewhere above or run it to the glovebox.
 
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21CX5 Signature
The dongar adapter that is premade is for only powering the dashcam on with the switched ignition. I don't think there is one made with the pin configured for constant power though It can be opened and modified or you can purchase an invisicord and put the micro pins into the mirror harness adapter yourself and make your own but one pin would go the the constant power pin on the mirror harness instead of the switched power pin on the same harness. It's quite simple. You can use the battery as well with the mirror power but that would be if you used the dongar adapter which is for switched power. It would be wired inline with the cord that plugs into the dashcam itself. (Cam has a mini or micro USB input for power) You'd then have to hide the battery pack in the headliner or somewhere above or run it to the glovebox.
I can not picture it would need a drowning also my camera came with hardwired cable so there is a plug that plugs to camera and the other end is 3 wires.
 

sm1ke

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:
Canada
:
'18 CX-9 Signature
There's not really any way for the wire to sag though.

Trust me, I'm a STICKLER for safety. If there was even a *thought* of something not being exactly right, I wouldn't have done it.

That's great if it worked for you. I'm just saying that if @metro2cx5 wants to guarantee no sag and no rattle, loosen the A-pillar cover and ziptie the cable to the wire loom.


So if I leave the pillar pried a little bit still connected to the tether I would still be able to snap it back in place after I run the wire ?

Yes, that's correct.

I can not picture it would need a drowning also my camera came with hardwired cable so there is a plug that plugs to camera and the other end is 3 wires.

Have a look at this thread. I used an Invisicord to tap into the Homelink-enabled rear view mirror so that I could use parking mode if I wanted to. Your 21 CX-5 Signature should have a frameless mirror, so accessing the harness is a little different. Refer to page 4 of the thread above for more info regarding the harness, where to tap in, and how to remove the cover to access the harness. Since you already have the hardwiring cable from the manufacturer of the camera, you should be able to just splice into the existing wiring. If you aren't comfortable with doing this, it might be best to have Best Buy's Geek Squad or a mobile audio shop do the installation for you.