haltech E6X trigger setup..need advice

[kasmankk]

For those who have sucessfully run thier motor with e6x ecu. I'd like to seek advice and help on how your have wired the trigger and the software setting for it.

I'll tried verifying the wiring, since engine won't start up. I noticed on the haltech software, the trigger was not working because no RPM readout was recorded. Normally it should read 150-180 rpm. So something is not correct about the triggering.

pics attached is the photo showing clearly the crank and cam position sensor.(hear ya)

 

[azian6er]

yeah i got your pm, sorry i havent responded yet.

My car is at my friends house so i dont remeber exactly what the wires go to,

As i remember, the black and orange on your crank sensor goes to the yellow wire in the shielded gray haltech wire bundle, and the blue wire goes to the black eire on the crank sensor.

This is how i wired it.

Also, if it is cold where you are, you wont beable to get it started. RUn your stock ecu for a few mine and warm the coolant up. Then switch back to haltech and start her up.

-Bryan

 

[kasmankk]

Azian6er:

thanks 4 your super quick response!
yeap..i did that, but motor won't fire-up. no sign of iginition at all. zero RPM read-out on haltech engine data page.

I've setup the wire harness so that it will work with stock ecu, haltech f10 and haltech e6x. Engine started effortlessly with stock ecu and f10 ecu. motor was pretty warmed-up already.

Do you have ypur map with you, can you share with me. I want to check the trigger setup. was it motronic or Mazda A? internal reluctor ? gain? filter? tooth offset and all that ...

yeah i got your pm, sorry i havent responded yet.

My car is at my friends house so i dont remeber exactly what the wires go to,

As i remember, the black and orange on your crank sensor goes to the yellow wire in the shielded gray haltech wire bundle, and the blue wire goes to the black eire on the crank sensor.

This is how i wired it.

Also, if it is cold where you are, you wont beable to get it started. RUn your stock ecu for a few mine and warm the coolant up. Then switch back to haltech and start her up.

-Bryan

 

[azian6er]

yes, let me see what i can find in regard to my maps. Most of them are on my fathers lap top and he is 3 hours away lol.

internal reluctor yes, motronic yes, multipoint fire, umm what other values were there?

-Bryan

 

[kasmankk]

bryan:

i saaw your post http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54133
on the same subject. pls share your experience on this. maybe it'll help .

 

[azian6er]

i got ahold of Juan lol. but in regard to the setup menu there really isnt much to it.

read me off the parameters and i can tell you what i put.

one value was 67 degress (i think that was crank angle) and some other crap. list out what you need and i will tell you.

-bryan

 

[kasmankk]

trigger waveform..looks ok but....

:'( the e6x still won't fire up. Refer to attach waveforms. I captured this during motr was idling (running on f10).

1, tacho output from stock ecu, used for triggering the F10
2. crank input , supposed to be used for triggering for e6x

both waveforms have the same amplitude and period (frequecy). this size of trigger signal should be able to trigger the e6x.

any comment??? All othe r setup for fuel, igition and trigger is using supplied parameter from Hiboost.

is the e6x faulty ? Pls help!!!!(help)

 

[kasmankk]

:'( the e6x still won't fire up. Refer to attach waveforms. I captured this during motr was idling (running on f10).

1, tacho output from stock ecu, used for triggering the F10
2. crank input , supposed to be used for triggering for e6x

both waveforms have the same amplitude and period (frequecy). this size of trigger signal should be able to trigger the e6x.

any comment??? All othe r setup for fuel, igition and trigger is using supplied parameter from Hiboost.

is the e6x faulty ? Pls help!!!!(help)

E6x was not faulty. I found oth that the crank pulley teeth is actually has only 3 teeth. 2 teeth are 180deg and 1 teeth is about 60-70deg from the 1st teeth. that's explain the waveforms.

the question is , is this still motronic setup? what kind of trigger option that can be use for this setup?


kasman

 

[HiBoost TS]

E6x was not faulty. I found oth that the crank pulley teeth is actually has only 3 teeth. 2 teeth are 180deg and 1 teeth is about 60-70deg from the 1st teeth. that's explain the waveforms.

the question is , is this still motronic setup? what kind of trigger option that can be use for this setup?


kasman

Kasman,
Motronic systems work with more teeth and one missing as a home signal.

It is not motronic. It seams that it has two teeth at 180 degree for TDC on both pistons 1&4 and 2&3. The other tooth is a home signal to tell the ECU that a new cycle begins.

I will send you a picture of how to make an aluminum ring to install on the original pulley with two magnets and a Haltech hall effect sensor. That is what I use on all honda motors and on all motors with a non compatible triggering system with Haltech. Or I can make the ring if you tell me the exact outside diameter of the pulley and let me know the clearence between the pulley and chassis.


Juan

 

[kasmankk]

e6x isssue..it's frying the ignitors! HELP!

i'm able to start-up the car with e6x now. It ran okay until slightly above 3500 rpm. Then, the egine started to sound funny and exhaust temparature went up a few hundred Celcuis. I logged the RPM, and showed no sign of instablilty as what had happened before. So, this time i think i'm ok with the crank sensor.

I noticed the ignitor are swelling up. Showed signs of overheated. some parts almost melted. (scratch) (scratch) But, the iginote still ok, i swtich back tohaltech F10 and stock ECU, engine is runnng as normal.

What could be the cause???
will this happen if the ignitor wire got switched..meaning coil 1 connected to haltech ig2, coil 2 to ig1.

Pls help

Kasman(dunno)

 

[LinuxRacr]

Oh wow, go ahead and order some new coils just in case. If your coils look like the attached, it is better to get new ones.

 

[HiBoost TS]

i'm able to start-up the car with e6x now. It ran okay until slightly above 3500 rpm. Then, the egine started to sound funny and exhaust temparature went up a few hundred Celcuis. I logged the RPM, and showed no sign of instablilty as what had happened before. So, this time i think i'm ok with the crank sensor.

I noticed the ignitor are swelling up. Showed signs of overheated. some parts almost melted. (scratch) (scratch) But, the iginote still ok, i swtich back tohaltech F10 and stock ECU, engine is runnng as normal.

What could be the cause???
will this happen if the ignitor wire got switched..meaning coil 1 connected to haltech ig2, coil 2 to ig1.

Pls help

Kasman(dunno)

Hello Kasman,

What trigger wheel did you finally use. What sensor? Everybody using the E6X have their car running great.

The unit like it was sent from me had the correct settings. If the wires were crossed between coil 1 and coil 2 the car would not start.

HERE ARE THE SETTINGS

http://www.msprotege.com/members/HiBoost%20TS/Setup%20for%20Mazda%20FS%202.doc

 

[kasmankk]

trigger wheel is similar to us p5. 36 teeth with 1 missing. laser cut, mounted outside the crank pulley. i'll take some picture tonite.
crank sensor, i use ABS sensor with 2 wires from toyota. It looks similar to stock crank sensor.

I have checked the ignition timing by locking it at 10 degree and a timing light.
the trigger is at 47 deg (i think this is due to the way i mount the sensor, it is not at same position as the stock).
Just a stupid question, if i set the dial at the timing light at 10 deg, should i align the timing mark to 10 degree OR to TDC? I set it at 10. if this is not corect, i'll have to do it again. Do you think this is the problem?

the coils are not as bad as what Linux pic. I'm trying to get new ones.
so, the setup and wiring is ok. what happened to Linux coil?

KasmanRSt

Hello Kasman,

What trigger wheel did you finally use. What sensor? Everybody using the E6X have their car running great.

The unit like it was sent from me had the correct settings. If the wires were crossed between coil 1 and coil 2 the car would not start.

HERE ARE THE SETTINGS

http://www.msprotege.com/members/HiBoost%20TS/Setup%20for%20Mazda%20FS%202.doc

 

[LinuxRacr]

That coil is what happened when I hooked up the MPI, and the J&S wrong. When the key was in the acc position, it fried it! (eek2).

 

[kasmankk]

pic for the sensor and crank wheel + the coil

trigger wheel is similar to us p5. 36 teeth with 1 missing. laser cut, mounted outside the crank pulley. i'll take some picture tonite.
crank sensor, i use ABS sensor with 2 wires from toyota. It looks similar to stock crank sensor.

I have checked the ignition timing by locking it at 10 degree and a timing light.
the trigger is at 47 deg (i think this is due to the way i mount the sensor, it is not at same position as the stock).
Just a stupid question, if i set the dial at the timing light at 10 deg, should i align the timing mark to 10 degree OR to TDC? I set it at 10. if this is not corect, i'll have to do it again. Do you think this is the problem?

the coils are not as bad as what Linux pic. I'm trying to get new ones.
so, the setup and wiring is ok. what happened to Linux coil?

KasmanRSt

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yeah, you need a new coil pack. That will definitely affect your idle, and starting. It did with me. Check your wireing...

 

[HiBoost TS]

pic for the sensor and crank wheel + the coil

Kasman,

You need to get the stock crank sensor. That sensor may not be compatible with the system.

 

[kasmankk]

did i mentioned to you, i did try the stock sensor?
i did, same thing happanned, that why i stick to this sensor.(scratch)

Kasman,

You need to get the stock crank sensor. That sensor may not be compatible with the system.

 

[HiBoost TS]

did i mentioned to you, i did try the stock sensor?
i did, same thing happanned, that why i stick to this sensor.(scratch)

But the stock sensor out of your car? Or the one in the US version?

 

[kasmankk]

stock , out of my car.

But the stock sensor out of your car? Or the one in the US version?