bullshark524
Member
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- 2000 mazda protege es soon to be 2000 mazda protege klze
let me just start by stating that this is not my thread i got it from imazda but since you need to registar to see it i am posting it here
11G-series 5sp Transmission: Complete Teardown & Rebuild w/LSD & 5th Gear Swap Photos by: Intruder, Mazdaracer, SgtRauksauff
Special Thanks go out to Intruder and CleanAWD for their invaluable help!! and to SgtRauksauff for his photos, that we used to disassemble the transmission and make this tutorial!
This How-To will guide through a complete transmission teardown and rebuild using a 1995 Ford Probe GT G-Series transmission, an MX6/626 5th Gear and an OEM [MSP] Mazdaspeed Protg LSD. This is not a how-to on rebuilding a broken transmission, this how-to assumes you have a good working transmission to start with.
This LSD will fit all G-series transmissions (MX3, MX6, 626, Probe GT, Protg/MP3/MSP/P5, EGT, ZX2) the differential spline count is 28.
FSM style PDF file for teardown and rebuild, with more indepth info on *rebuilding* the trans. Thanks to Focus for the link.
http://www.mazdaspd.com/resources/Transmission_Rebuild.pdf
and incase that link ever disappears, this is a permanent link on the iMazda server
http://www.imazda.com/mazdaracer/V6/LSD/Transmission_Rebuild.pdf
Contents
Segment #1: Teardown
Segment #2: LSD and 5th Gear Parts
Segment #3: Rebuild
Segment #4: Notes and Tips
Segment #5: Tools/Materials Needed
Segment #1: Teardown
Once you have your transmission removed from the car and on your bench, we can begin. [BE SURE TO DRAIN ALL THE FLUID BEFOREHAND] Have a good size area to work with and lay out plastic bags, cardboard and/or shop towels for laying out the parts and for any fluid spills. Also a good idea of to have extra shop towels handy. It also pays to be able to walk on both sides of the workbench, saves from moving the transmission around.
NOTE: If you have left the slave cylinder and hardline attached, be sure to block off the hardline to avoid fluid spraying out!!
Click on the thumbnails for the full size pic
First we start by removing the 10mm bolts holding the 5th gear pan and removing any leftover CV ends that may have been difficult during transmission removal.1
2
Once the gear cover has been removed, you will now have access to 5th gear and the primary and secondary shaft locknuts. Unstake the locknuts and remove. (this may require an airgun)
3
Once you remove the locknuts, remove the top 2 gears, pay close attention to the order of the parts when removing them. The gears lift up and off the shafts with ease. It is a good idea when removing your parts, to lay them out on your bench in the order they came off and in groups of where they came off of.
4
Now to remove the fork arm. First, with a punch, remove the pin sleeve locking the arm to the shaft. Then lift the fork arm off the shaft. Again, paying close attention to the order of the parts.
5
Once the fork arm is removed, you can now remove the 5th gears. They just slide up and off the shafts.
6
Now we move to the outer casing. Remove these two 12mm bolts. One is holding the reverse gear shaft, the other holds the secondary shaft. Then remove the 14mm bolt, this is holding a small spring and ball bearing for the reverse gear lever. Using a magnetic pickup tool, remove the spring, then remove the ball bearing. The remove the (x15) 15mm case bolts and lift the top section of the case off. You may need to wiggle it around to free the primary and secondary shafts.
7
With the top case removed, you should have nice clean internal parts.
8
Now that the internals are exposed, we can start to systematically remove them. We start with the reverse gear. NOTE: the bolt attched to it, is the same bolt removed from the outer case a few steps earlier. In order to keep the parts together, we threaded the bolt into it to make sure it went back in the same place.
9
Now we move to the 5th gear/Reverse shifting rod. Remove the 10mm bolt locking the rod to it’s base.
10
Then remove the rod, by wiggling it up and out, then remove the base. Having your parts laid out neatly will go along way to a much easier rebuild.
17Now we move to the internal shift lever. First thing, is to remove the locking pin. Press on the outside of the internal cylinder with your finger to release pressure on the pin and it’ll slide out nice and easy. The screwdriver slot on it is only used to help re-align the locking pin hole during reassembly.
12
Then reach in with your finger, under the fork and behind the diff gear ring and push the cylinder out from the backside.
13
You can now remove the lever. It rests on 2 spherical pivot points. Once removed, re-insert the cylinder and place it on your workbench in the same orientation it was in. Don’t lose the locking pin.
14
Now comes the dirtiest part of the job...the magnetic drain plug ring. Remove the drain plug bolt, then just grab the magnetic ring and pull out.
15
Now we move to the fork arm shifter pivot base. This part can be a bit tricky. It really pays to have a pick tool set handy. There is a spring and ball bearing inside the little cylinder. There is an access hole in the top where you can see the spring coils. You need the very fine tipped pick tool here, as you need to grab the coil behind the last coil you see through the access hole. Otherwise, the spring will not compress enough to allow the ball to retract and let the shifter pivot base loose. You'll need to hold the spring back as you remove the fork arm from it's socket in the case. Take extra care, because if that spring releases, you could be in for a long search for the ball bearing!!! Once you have the fork arm removed, using your magnetic tool, remove the ball and spring and set them aside on your workbench.
16
Your transmission will now look like this with the fork arm removed.
Now we can remove the secondary shaft. Lift and tilt the differential, then tilt and pull up on the secondary shaft to remove it. Pay close attention to any washers or rings and keep them in the proper order.
18
Now remove the differential by simply lifting it out.
19
It has been discussed and shown, that a small portion of the internal case must be ground down in order for the LSD to fit and spin freely. This info comes from the 4cyl BP Protege and Escort GT transmissions, as well as the MX3 GS but as you can see in the first 2 pics, this ProbeGT transmission already has that spot ground down from the factory, so this mod was not needed. The 3rd pic shows where the BP 4cyl transmissions have been grinded for the LSD.
This concludes segment #1.
Good Job!! :bigthumbup:
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Segment #2: LSD and 5th Gear Parts
21
When purchasing the LSD, you'll want to also get some new parts to go along with it. This is where being a member of MMS (Mazdaspeed Motorsports) comes in handy....the parts are not only cheaper, but you are able to order them all online. Shipping has always been incredibally fast.
It has also been discussed and documented about the earlier versions of the LSD having a weak point. The rivets used to hold the ring gear to the differential case. The ring gear breaks away from the differential case, rendering the LSD useless. Later and current versions have been upgraded with stronger rivets, but since this trasmission will see 99% of it's use on the track racing, and see close to 200whp, the ring gear and pin have been welded in place.
22
Part 1: LSD Parts Needed
[MSP] Mazdaspeed Protege LSD
Differential & Ring Gear
[strike]GS01-27-190A[/strike]
NEW PART NUMBER - GSY1-27-190
QTY = 1
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Primary Shaft Lock Nut
F520-17-628
QTY=1
Secondary Shaft Lock Nut
[strike]F521-17-628A[/strike]
NEW PART NUMBER: G501-17-629A
QTY=1
24
Speedo Drive Gear
G501-17-341A
QTY=1
The speedo drive gear will need to be be modified to fit the case and allow the carrier bearing to seat properly. The gear tabs are offset and it must be installed properly. When looking at the gear, the tabs sit flush to the carrier bearings seat. You'll notice on one side of the gear, there are 6 small square notches on the face, But on the otherside, there are 2 larger square notches. The side with the 2 larger square notches faces up. These notches are there to allow the bearing removal tool access under the carrier bearing to pry it off.
More details and pics can be seen in Segment #3: Rebuild
25
Carrier Bearings
G5R0-27-350B
QTY=2
The carrier bearings need to be pressed onto the differential. For those who do not have a hydraulic press, the services of a machine shop will be needed. Make sure you hang out and show them the correct placement of the speedo drive gear, otherwise, once pressed on, the bearing will not spin freely and a new drive gear and bearing will need to be purchased as they will be destroyed when removing them.
Part 2: 5th Gear Parts Needed
Only 2 parts are needed for the 5th gear swap. The 2 gears themsleves. This is a direct swap and could even be done with the transmission still in the car.
Mazda MX6 or 626 Sourced 5th gear Swap
5th Gear #1
(Primary Shaft gear)
[strike]G560-17-611A[/strike]
NEW PART NUMBER - G560-17-611C
QTY: 1
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5th Gear #2
(Secondary Shaft gear)
G514-17-308
QTY: 1
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