ECU problems need help!!!

Cuttness

Member
:
2003 MSP
Hey guys, I did a motor swap on my protege and it seems I have ran into a snag. Car turns over but I'm not getting any spark or fuel pressure. Tested coils they work, tested fuel pump by jumping it at the Diagnostics port and it came onot great, swapped ecu and still nothing, swapped cam and crank position sensors and still... nothing. So, I tested the pin#4 on the ecu harness and it's supposed to be a constant positive charge on it and it's not getting power. Checked fuses left and right, checked grounds as well. I'm missing something and this is bugging me to death. Main and fuel pump relays were swapped, fuses were checked. What could I be missing?? Is there a fuse or relay I'm missing? Ground locations mapped out on a pic? Please someone help me on this one thanks guys
 
What's the engine from? A 626 perhaps?
 
Okay, you have your failed engine, yes? You need to swap cam/crank gears from your failed engine. Common problem.
 
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Okay, you have your failed engine, yes? You need to swap cam/crank gears from your failed engine. Common problem.

Thanks for the reply. Did that and still got nothing. I thought that was the problem as well. Switched over a knock sensor also. Would the computer not get power if I had a bad sensor?
 
Thanks for the reply. Did that and still got nothing. I thought that was the problem as well. Switched over a knock sensor also. Would the computer not get power if I had a bad sensor?

You need to tell me everything you've done then, instead of supplying only partial information- you said nothing of the cam and crank gears in your original post. List everything you've done and I can diagnose this for you with your help. Remember, I'm not standing over this engine, you are.
 
Hey guys, I did a motor swap on my protege and it seems I have ran into a snag. Car turns over but I'm not getting any spark or fuel pressure. Tested coils they work, tested fuel pump by jumping it at the Diagnostics port and it came onot great, swapped ecu and still nothing, swapped cam and crank position sensors and still... nothing. So, I tested the pin#4 on the ecu harness and it's supposed to be a constant positive charge on it and it's not getting power. Checked fuses left and right, checked grounds as well. I'm missing something and this is bugging me to death. Main and fuel pump relays were swapped, fuses were checked. What could I be missing?? Is there a fuse or relay I'm missing? Ground locations mapped out on a pic? Please someone help me on this one thanks guys
Did you just swap sensors, or gears?
 
Your tachometer move while cranking? Can you view engine RPMs while cranking with anything?
 
Would the computer not get power if I had a bad sensor?
Wait, wait, wait- you've checked for B+ at the ECM and it's not there? This is an entirely different issue.

If so, what pin on the ECM side did you check?
 
You need to tell me everything you've done then, instead of supplying only partial information- you said nothing of the cam and crank gears in your original post. List everything you've done and I can diagnose this for you with your help. Remember, I'm not standing over this engine, you are.

I did not swap the gears themselves. Just sensors
 
Wait, wait, wait- you've checked for B+ at the ECM and it's not there? This is an entirely different issue.

If so, what pin on the ECM side did you check?

I'm new to diagnosing ecu problems, I just checked for voltage on the harness at pin4 B+ and I got nothing
 
OK... now I just found out some bad news. I may have swapped a fs-ze and I was sold the wrong motor. After researching I will swap the crank pully and cam gears and see what happens. It's still turbo and will monitor the afr's. Apparently the ze motor is high compression and has different fs9 cams. Still able to run with the stock msp ecu but I'll have to see what happens when I swap that andt check signal at ecu again. Gosh I'm upset I did this due to being a idiot and not researching what the ze motor looked like and didn't even know there was one. I said I needed a fsde2.0 and they sold me this one. Thanks for the replys and I'll keep anyone posted on this. Car is gonna be low boost on a t28 lol
 
the JMD trigger patter in completely different. US ECU is not capable of reading the position or speed of the engine if you don't transfer the exhaust cam Gear and the Harmonic balancer from the old engine.

Even if you bought a FSZE it will run if installed correctly. Also check the cams, a lot of these importers label every FS9 engine as FSZE, they many don't know what they're selling.
 
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the JMD trigger patter in completely different. US ECU is not capable of reading the position or speed of the engine if you don't transfer the exhaust cam Gear and the Harmonic balancer from the old engine.

Even if you bought a FSZE it will run if installed correctly. Also check the cams, a lot of these importers label every FS9 engine as FSZE, they many don't know what they're selling.

Thank you for the reply man! Yepp in the process currently of removing my old harmonic balancer and cam gears to be replaced with my old stuff. While I'm in there I'll check and see if I have the fs9 ones or not. Thanks buddy
 
Popped off the valve cover and found fsh9 intake and fsd7 exhaust cams. Good ol fsze motor for sure. Swapping the cam Gear now.
 
After months of diagnosing problems and swapping my motor... she fired right up!!! Swapped the Harmonic balancer over and got fuel and spark instantly when I tried turning it over. Thank you so much for the help!!! It's a fs-ze motor but it runs for now lol
 
Congrats man!! I actually did the same exact thing and ordered a ZE on accident. It took a little extra time and money to swap everything but it fired right up with the MSP ECU. Took me about five months to do the sway, I bought the car with a blown motor that had already been removed so it was a bit harder figuring out where everything went!
Let me know how the turboing goes. I still have the MSP turbo but I'm afraid I'll blow the motor if I install it!! The rods in the ZE are just as weak as the DE.
 
You won't blow the motor, just keep the boost under ~11psi or so and it should last you
 
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