Dyno Results

MP3Ben

Member
Hiya boys and girls, I finally got my car dynoed today! I would post it, but I don't have a scanner (argh, never really had to use one so never bought one). If anybody's interested, here are the results (I'll have to describe it). First, the background info:

The dyno was a rather aged model 248C dynamometer. I did 5 runs, 3 stock except for my MHP CAI, 1 run with the muffler unbolted, and 1 run with the exhaust off up to the catalytic. I have exactly 5,000kms (not anymore, after today) on the car, and it's been through its first oil change at 4,000km. I'm using 94 Octane, which I had a full tank of today.

OK here we go:

The 3 runs with only the MHP intake were identical (almost). I had 114.3, 114.0, and 114.8 hp max, at approximately 6,000 rpm, and 119.1, 119.0, and 119.1 ft-lbs of torque at about 4,000 rpm.

Imagine this...the torque graph began at about 109 at 2,200 rpm, rising steadily to peak at 4,000, then declines at an increasing rate to 90ft-lbs at 6,500 rpm.

The horsepower graph is very steady, beginning at 43 or so at 2,250 rpm and rising very steadily to peak at 6,000, then falling off slowly towards redline to 111.

Now, there is one really interesting thing: both on the hp and torque graphs, a sharp dip occurs at 4,600 rpm consistently. Hp drops from 102 to 98, and torque dips from 112 to 108 suddenly, then at 4,800 rpm picks up again sharply, continuing the smooth line that was being drawn before the dip. Weird! I asked about this V shaped depression, and someone told me that perhaps the stock fuel regulator can't quite handle it and perhaps an aftermarket one would help. I dunno about that, sounds rather strange that a stock regulator can't handle a stock engine... :p

Anyways, moving on...point number two: the dyno guys told me that my motor was still too young at 5,000kms (3,000 miles) to get an accurate dyno reading. They said that one guy who brought in a stock motor at both 3,000 miles and 6,000 miles to do baselines actually got 6 hp more at the wheels when he ran in the motor further. at 3,000 the motor should be 'officially' run in, but a little more aging might be a good thing...

Point number 3; the regulars at the dyno told me that this old dyno that they've been using gives consistently 'conservative' results. On another dyno (out in the suburbs) the readings are almost always a couple hp/torque higher.

Who knows? I'll let y'all know when I dyno my car at 6,000 miles and at the other place! Maybe there'll be no diff, but then again they said it's likely I'd get 4 or 5 more hp. Nothing dramatic though. Overall I'm satisfied...140 hp at the crank with a 26 hp loss...that's about an 18.5% driveline loss.

But that's WITH the CAI. And it does make a difference! The reason I know: a stock Protege5 went in right before me, doing a completely stock pull of 102hp. They have 10hp less at the crank than we do, so that is about 8 hp at the wheels less. Doing the math, 114 - 102 - 8 = 4. Meaning, about 4 hp at the wheels gain, or 5ish at the crank. I really wish I had dynoed my own car before the CAI just to make sure, but damn dynos are expensive! For my experiments today I could have bought a handful of K&N's!! But it was all in fun though hehehe....

Heads up: the stock Protege5 put in a replacement K&N filter (yes, only the flat one!) and ran 105 hp...3 hp gain for a teeny mod like that! Now that's a cheap but effective mod! Hehe I paid almost $300 USD more than him, and got only 1-2 hp more out of my CAI...but then I am paying for both the looks and the intake roar too... :D

Oh, and for comparison, the Pro5 was fully run in, with (I can't remember, but something like 6-7 thousand km on it).

OK, as for the no-muffler and no-cat-back runs, I wanted to see if an aftermarket cat-back would be a big improvement so I wanted to try absolutely no restriction (unbolting the damn thing). On both runs, peak hp was down by 2, while torque remained the same. However, the torque graphs drop quicker after peak in the no-cat-back and no-muffler applications. On the hp graph, it's all the same until about 4,000 rpm, then the stock line and the no-exhaust lines begin diverging.

All in all, those guys told me that we have a great exhaust system stock, and that not much tuning can be done to it. So, heads up...if you do decide on a cat-back, make sure the tuner has real dyno results first. You just might end up losing power.

The physics of exhausts are very complex, and everybody's got a different opinion (I've read a lot and seen a lot, but I hesitate to post my theory) so you can draw your own conclusions.

It's definitely not as simple as 'less backpressure, more flow' being the key to hp in all applications! There's also the whole deal about resonance waves, and flow velocity, etc etc...hope somebody else except me is experimenting around here!

Sorry for the essay, but thought some people would like to know, and I've really got to buy a damn scanner... :p
 
I'm at work and forgot my password!
I hope I don't get flamed by asking this simple question, but do you mean to tell me the stat of HP and tourqe they give for the MP3/P5 is at the crank? the 140HP for MP3 and 130 for P5 is accualy more like 112 and 102? Crazyness I thought most car companys now always rated at the wheels. Unless I am misreading something here...
Anywho, thanks for all the info, finaly someone has done some testing.
 
Well, it's either a) at the crank, or b) at the crank. :) I know it sucks. But not much we can do about it. They will tell you the power at the crank for the most part just because it's higher.
 
Kudo's to MP3Ben for getting his car dyno'd. It's gonna be a while for me, but when I do finally get the intake, I'll do a couple of runs before I put the intake in so we can have some baseline reading. I'm also waiting until I get enough money for an S-AFC as well so I can see if my theory behind tuning the fuel curve after putting on the intake is correct. If it is true, I'm expecting about 4 maybe 5 more hp to the wheels. Has anyone thought about buying the Japanese Spec intake cam from Mazda Motorsports? It's a might cheap piece, but the installation will cost you probably, maybe another $200. Anyway, thank you MP3Ben :D
 
Yep, sadly, manufacturers always post stats from the crank...

But then again, approximately 110 at the wheels is pretty much what I expected. Ah well!

Oh Apexistud, I've been pondering the S-AFC but over in ProtegeTech they say it doesn't work at full throttle! Do ya know if that's true? And I am probably going to get the J-spec cams sometime next year. :D
 
ummm shoot...now I can't find that article on Protegetech...I'm sure I read it somewhere! Lwt me know if you find it! LOL :rolleyes:
 
Oh and in my first post, it turns out, the guy in the Pro5 with the K&N was using a cone filter, not the flat one...my bad! Still much cheaper than a CAI though hehe
 
Hmm, I don't think it would cut out or not work at full throttle, but if they say it doesn't work at full throttle, that means that they must have tried it already. I'm still going to get one anyway, when you think about it, when you're at full throttle, your injectors are already at the maximum flow rate anyway. But, at the lower RPM points is where you'll need to adjust the fuel, especially with the other mods on your car and especially once you get a cam. I'm hoping someone comes out with adjustable cam gears if their not already out, we'll need those for the cams too.

And if you get the chance can you post your dyno sheet if you have one. I'd really like to see it.
 
MP3Ben...WOW...thanks for the wealth of knowledge, finally some real dyno info...that's it boys and girls...at least now we have some actual facts...will this cut down on BS posting...lets hope so!

Thanks again MP3Ben :D
 
No problem, Antoine, just doing what I can!

Apexistud, you've got a point about part throttle...I guess I spent 99% of my time at part throttle anyways so the gains would be nice. But It'd be funny if you are pushing more horses at 90% throttle than if you go WOT! One other thing is that we need a harness if the thing is to piggyback properly (and be detachable before I go to the dealer everytime hehe). Splicing is an option, but then you can't take it off.

As or the dyno chart...I'll look around for a friend with a scanner (fingers crossed)... :D
 
Let me correct some of the info I posted about the S-AFC. I accidentaly said that the injectors would be at their maximum flow rate. Which is really false information. If our injectors were to run at their maximum duty cycle, they'd be failing. It's called "Static" bad static...bad ;)
 
Originally posted by MP3Ben:
<STRONG>
Now, there is one really interesting thing: both on the hp and torque graphs, a sharp dip occurs at 4,600 rpm consistently. Hp drops from 102 to 98, and torque dips from 112 to 108 suddenly, then at 4,800 rpm picks up again sharply, continuing the smooth line that was being drawn before the dip. Weird! I asked about this V shaped depression, and someone told me that perhaps the stock fuel regulator can't quite handle it and perhaps an aftermarket one would help. I dunno about that, sounds rather strange that a stock regulator can't handle a stock engine... :p

</STRONG>

that torque dip, and resulting hp dip, are attributed to the vics system employed on the intake manifold. there are two different length runners, one for low rpm torque, and one for high rpm hp.
 
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