CX-5 Brake issue at 17,000 miles

[theplayer11]

2019 GTR. I'm hearing a high pitched sound(not really that loud) when driving that appear to be coming from rear. When I tap the brakes it goes away, then comes back. It starts after driving for a little while.
I noticed the front rotors where slightly warm to the touch after a short 5 mile trip, the passenger rear rotor was not as warm, BUT the driver's rear rotor was very hot to the touch. What do you think is going on, rear driver's pad already worn out after 17k miles? 2 months out of 3 year warranty.

 

[HyFlyer]

Have you ever pulled the the caliper slide pins out and [lubed] them? Could be dry and hanging up. It happens.

You would have to dig in a little deeper to find the cause. Maybe simple, maybe not. Do you work on stuff yourself or would you be taking it to a garage or dealerships?

edited for stupid autocorrect and fat thumbs

 

[theplayer11]

Have you ever pulled the the caliper slide pins out and lived them? Could be dry and hanging up. It happens.

You would have to dig in a little deeper to find the cause. Maybe simple, maybe not. Do you work on stuff yourself or would yoi be taking it to a garage or dealerships?

I wouldn't do it myself. 2months out of warranty, is it worth going to a dealer? or just take to my mechanic. I googled Mazda Brake warranty and I'm seeing lifetime pad warranty(no labor) as long as original owner, but that doesn't seem right. With only 17k miles and no city driving, no way pads should be worn out.

 

[HyFlyer]

I agree, normal driving, normal conditions the pads should last a long time. Personally, my pads have been lasting 100k miles +\- . Something is amiss and needs to be diagnosed. If you don't do that kind of thing then whatever mechanic you trust is fine, doesn't have to be a dealership.

 

[theplayer11]

rear rotors, wife's car, should have paid more attention. Those rotors are toast..right? 17k miles, what do you think happened? Would not lubing slide pin cause this?

edit: front rotors both are smooth.

 

[HyFlyer]

About the only thing I know from the pics is you operate in an area where corrosion is an issue and you would be a prime candidate for additional brake maintenance such as regular cleaning / lubing . Hard to tell much more without pulling the wheels off and getting in there.

Do you live in a winter snow / road salt area or saltwater ocean area?

 

[theplayer11]

About the only thing I know from the pics is you operate in an area where corrosion is an issue and you would be a prime candidate for additional brake maintenance such as regular cleaning / lubing . Hard to tell much more without pulling the wheels off and getting in there.

Do you live in a winter snow / road salt area or saltwater ocean area?

yup, RI. I'm confused because front rotors are smooth, no pitting. Are you saying the pitting could be from corrosion and nothing to do with brake pad wear? Taking in to dealer on Wednesday.

 

[theplayer11]

front rotor

fluid down a bit, but if pads were worn down, wouldn't fluid be a lot lower?

 

[HyFlyer]

My guess by what you've posted is caliper slides on rear are dry. The rear rotors may look smooth and normal on the inside surface but the outside pad isn't making good contact with the rotor due to being seized up. Probably looking at New rotors and pads and clean everything up on the rear. May as well have them clean / lube the front while your at it.

 

[Buzzman12]

My rear rotors looked like that after two years and about 12,000 miles, maybe less.
Mazda gave me the cold shoulder when I pointed out the brakes. Two dealers and Mazda Canada said tough sheet, it's your problem. They wanted close to $600 bucks to replace everything, and no goodwill discount.
Three years later I'm at 21,000 miles, and I haven't done a darn thing. They haven't gotten worse, and they still work. E brake still works as well. Screw Mazda on this one.

 

[Hawke]

This TSB might apply to the issues experienced in this thread:

TSB 04-002/21

 

[Jack Rabbit]

My guess by what you've posted is caliper slides on rear are dry. The rear rotors may look smooth and normal on the inside surface but the outside pad isn't making good contact with the rotor due to being seized up. Probably looking at New rotors and pads and clean everything up on the rear. May as well have them clean / lube the front while your at it.

Agree on slides and pads. Hard to tell from the pics but from OPs post, it might be normal oxidation. Assuming there is no scoring on the rotors, it seems to be normal rusting from northeast saltbrine roads and minimal driving which could also be causing the calipers slides to stick(due to limited driving)

Might just need to grease the pins like HyFlyer mentioned then take the car for a long drive to wear the rust off the rotors. Maybe change pads if still a problem. Take the rotors to NAPA and see it they need turned. Shouldnt need New rotors yet. Pads maybe, rotors maybe not.

 

[theplayer11]

Agree on slides and pads. Hard to tell from the pics but from OPs post, it might be normal oxidation. Assuming there is no scoring on the rotors, it seems to be normal rusting from northeast saltbrine roads and minimal driving which could also be causing the calipers slides to stick(due to limited driving)

Might just need to grease the pins like HyFlyer mentioned then take the car for a long drive to wear the rust off the rotors. Maybe change pads if still a problem. Take the rotors to NAPA and see it they need turned. Shouldnt need New rotors yet. Pads maybe, rotors maybe not.

hope you are right. Why would the front rotors look so clean compared to the rear?
The car doesn't sit for long stretches , just not driven far distances.

 

[Jack Rabbit]

hope you are right. Why would the front rotors look so clean compared to the rear?
The car doesn't sit for long stretches , just not driven far distances.

My vehicle never had that problem til it was driven less during covid shutdown. The rotors will rust... Driving it will remove the rust from the rotors unless like HyFlyer mentioned the slides are stuck, therefore the pads arent making optimal contact with the rotors therefore the slides need greased. In short, front pads are making full contact, rear pads arent making full contact. Also, it's always possible the rear rotors could have been manufactured differently or from slightly different materials thus rust faster and moreso than the front rotors.

Edit: Looking at the pics of front and rear , they appear to both have rusted the same. The only difference is the contact area on the front rotors where the pads have scrubbed away the rust. Which again means the rear pads arent making optimal contact.

If you grease the slides and the pads are still not making optimal contact then may need new calipers as the pistons are probably partially frozen.

 

[HyFlyer]

@theplayer11 , did you see that TSB that @Hawke posted ^^^ a couple back? That seems to fit your situation pretty well.

Does your CX-5 VIN fall within the range of the TSB?

2017-2020 CX-5 vehicles with VINs lower than JM3KF******820235 (produced before Mar. 18, 2020)

Rear brake pads that aren't so good at knocking corrosion off combined with an "easy driven" vehicle seems like would produce what you're experiencing.

 

[murky]

My vehicle never had that problem til it was driven less during covid shutdown. The rotors will rust... Driving it will remove the rust from the rotors unless like HyFlyer mentioned the slides are stuck, therefore the pads arent making optimal contact with the rotors therefore the slides need greased. In short, front pads are making full contact, rear pads arent making full contact. Also, it's always possible the rear rotors could have been manufactured differently or from slightly different materials thus rust faster and moreso than the front rotors.

Edit: Looking at the pics of front and rear , they appear to both have rusted the same. The only difference is the contact area on the front rotors where the pads have scrubbed away the rust. Which again means the rear pads arent making optimal contact.

If you grease the slides and the pads are still not making optimal contact then may need new calipers as the pistons are probably partially frozen.

Hawke's linked TSB seems to indicate that Mazda recognizes that their pad material wasn't capable of removing hardened oxidation in some environments. Seemed to be precisely the kind of symptoms that OP is experiencing. Easy fix, new rotors, new pads and hardware, lube pins.

 

[theplayer11]

Hawke's linked TSB seems to indicate that Mazda recognizes that their pad material wasn't capable of removing hardened oxidation in some environments. Seemed to be precisely the kind of symptoms that OP is experiencing. Easy fix, new rotors, new pads and hardware, lube pins.

not so "easy" when out of warranty..

 

[Jack Rabbit]

not see "easy" when out of warranty..

If out of warranty, then just replace the pads and lube the pins, and just get the rotors turned.

Plenty of pad options, you could get newer OEM, some members here use bosch, powerstop or hawk brands. I prefer the mazda OEM which are working well on my CX5 but also like NAPA adaptive one ceramics(used on other vehicles) and may even try EBC redstuff.

 

[theplayer11]

Just back from the dealer, wasn't expecting this. Thanks Hawke for the TSB you posted. I told them about it and they were aware and stated my rotors matched the bulletin so they went ahead and replaced even though 2 months out of warranty as good will. This was my first time at this dealership, bought elsewhere and never serviced by any Mazda dealer.

 

[murky]

Just back from the dealer, wasn't expecting this. Thanks Hawke for the TSB you posted. I told them about it and they were aware and stated my rotors matched the bulletin so they went ahead and replaced even though 2 months out of warranty as good will. This was my first time at this dealership, bought elsewhere and never serviced by any Mazda dealer.
View attachment 313233

Smart of them. They've generated goodwill.