Curt, Drawtite or Reese Hitch?
- Thread starter Surfsup
- Start date
Seems most CX-5 owners are getting the Curt hitch. On Amazon I got a Curt Class II hitch with receiver for $111 with free shipping. You can't beat that. Believe it was 12083 that consists of the 12080 hitch + receiver. Amazon also has the plug and play wiring harness for $35 for CX-5.
Curt also makes a Class III hitch with 2" receiver opening, but it weighs twice as much (40lbs) as Class II hitch. The Class II is heavy duty and 3500# is far above the 2000# rating of CX-5 so don't see the point of Class III.
Curt also makes a Class III hitch with 2" receiver opening, but it weighs twice as much (40lbs) as Class II hitch. The Class II is heavy duty and 3500# is far above the 2000# rating of CX-5 so don't see the point of Class III.
I had never heard of Reese, but I notice when I go to their web site (http://www.reese-hitches.com/products/Class_II__1_1_4_inch_Receiver_Hitch,36528) and blow up the picture of the CX-5 hitch, it clearly says "Draw-Tite" on the left side. As for Curt hitches, I have a Class II and am happy with it except for the fact that it protrudes from under the bumper too far for my tastes. It was easy to install and Curt makes quality products (I had one on my Nissan Frontier before this). I kinda doubt CC58's claim that the Class III weighs twice as much as the Class II, as the pictures I've seen of the two units would not indicate that. They appear to be virtually the same except for the receiver.
Curt Class II 12080 hitch weighs about 26#
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/12080
Curt Class III 13127 hitch wieghs about 40#
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/13127
Looks like class 2 hitches handle 3500 LBS which is nearly double the CX5 capacity. The trailer weight is 350lbs for each (C2 and C3) so it seems there's no point to a Class 3 unless there is something to do with a 2" vs 1-1/4" receiver. Will probably be just fine but I am not familiar with rack attachments enough to know if a 2" is better or more available (1-1/4 limiting the choices...?). Don't need to drive around an extra 50% more weight for nothing.
What I might do is find a decent bike rack on CL and once I do that buy either the 1-1/4 or 2" to fit the rack. The difference in price of the C2/C3 seems to be $20. The deal on a rack will more than make up for that.
What I might do is find a decent bike rack on CL and once I do that buy either the 1-1/4 or 2" to fit the rack. The difference in price of the C2/C3 seems to be $20. The deal on a rack will more than make up for that.
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There are a lot of nicer attachments/racks for a 2" receiver than there are with a 1-1/4".
There some some bike racks that can do both. A lot of 2" have special bolts that will make it snug so it doesn't rattle/move, none-rare for 1.25" racks.
I got the Curt Class III just so that I could have a 2" receiver for my bike racks. The 1 1/4" racks have to use a special adaptor which I prefer not to have.
Also, if anyone is looking to DIY their own hitch, I have for sale a special exhaust hanger tool that makes the job a cinch!
Also, if anyone is looking to DIY their own hitch, I have for sale a special exhaust hanger tool that makes the job a cinch!
Good point about the rattling. I guess 16lbs isn't much. I just did a cost analysis of using a hitch on the AWD 2014 CX5, using 3500LBS curb weight. Funny how the result showed going from a class 2 to a class 3 will cost an extra $6.66 per year. 666! I put in 3532lbs curb weight (actual) and it adjusted to $6.60. Phew...all of us superstitious types with class 3 hitches can breathe a sigh of relief now...
$6/yr - no worries mate
$6/yr - no worries mate
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I had the Class II, but didn't like the 1 1/4" adapter I needed to use for my bike rack (made the rack stick out too far). I ended up swapping it out for the Class III a couple of weeks ago. While I had them both off, I grabbed a scale and weighed myself while holding each one. The Class III was only 3 lbs more than the Class II. Surprising.
Now I have a Class II sitting around that I need to sell...
Now I have a Class II sitting around that I need to sell...
Not surprising to me. See my post #5 above. Am I correct in assuming that the Class III receiver is shorter and does not stick out as far from under the bumper? What's the approx. difference in inches?
EagleRockCX5
Member
- :
- 2014 CX-5 GT 2WD
I've had great luck with Curt on two of my vehicles.
NinjaNoises
Member
- :
- CX-5 Sport MT
The Curt Class III fits perfect. I used it only once for a motorcycle carrier. I think it looks a little more badass to have a bigger hitch. lol.
Come to think of it, you're right. The III doesn't seem to stick out as far. Not sure, maybe an inch less? It's a bit more flush, maybe I'll take a pic to compare.
I installed my class 3 (2") hitch today. I found I didn't really need any rubber hangar tool, not any soap and water. Here's what I did...
I used a screwdriver to stick into the slot in the rubber hangar from the center of the car, out to the side, and pulled down, twisting the rubber and using my other hand/thumb to shove it over. Once i got it to move a bit I just pushed on the exhaust system the opposite way and she popped off. All four took maybe 4-5 minutes.
Then on the fishing of the bolts, i reverse fished the forward hole on each side. I put the coiled end up into the small forward hole and pulled it down through the rear larger hole. Then pulled the plate and screw through.
The rear hole was easy.
ThenI used a jack to lift the hitch and fed the wires through the holes. Once I had the four bolts through and the hitch up against the frame, I tightened by hand the nuts after removing the fishwire.
At this point, I didnt bother with a torque wrench. I set my aircat to #2 and macked it down...
Popped the hangars back on and that was it. About 35 minutes total setup, install, clean up.
I used a screwdriver to stick into the slot in the rubber hangar from the center of the car, out to the side, and pulled down, twisting the rubber and using my other hand/thumb to shove it over. Once i got it to move a bit I just pushed on the exhaust system the opposite way and she popped off. All four took maybe 4-5 minutes.
Then on the fishing of the bolts, i reverse fished the forward hole on each side. I put the coiled end up into the small forward hole and pulled it down through the rear larger hole. Then pulled the plate and screw through.
The rear hole was easy.
ThenI used a jack to lift the hitch and fed the wires through the holes. Once I had the four bolts through and the hitch up against the frame, I tightened by hand the nuts after removing the fishwire.
At this point, I didnt bother with a torque wrench. I set my aircat to #2 and macked it down...
Popped the hangars back on and that was it. About 35 minutes total setup, install, clean up.
36 psi is right. Your dealer didn't do the PDI checklist right and reduce the air in the tires. That was the psi for the cross-Pacific journey.
On the other hand, hypermillers run with exceeded tire pressure just prepare for extra wear on the center of your tires.
