justanotheradikt
Member
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- 03 protege dx 5spd
i want to hear...you guys with these brakes let me know what you think i should get!!!
pros and cons
pros and cons
cross drilled, slotted or both?
- Thread starter justanotheradikt
- Start date
justanotheradikt
Member
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- 03 protege dx 5spd
thanks amaff.....
what are you using? blanks?
what are you using? blanks?
slackazzmouser
Member
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- 2002 Mazda Protege LX
i had brembo cross drilled and loved em. i highly reccomend them but i also noticed my brake pads werent lasting as long. but i think its worth it
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- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
i had the cross drilled/slotted and had no trouble. had them on for over 15K and no trouble........they look nice!
i picked them up used and was not sure of the milage on them. i don't think they had much though!
-R
i picked them up used and was not sure of the milage on them. i don't think they had much though!
-R
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- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
slackazzmouser said:
i agree with this, but the pads on our cars are easy to change......get pads with lifetime warranty and you will have no trouble getting new ones for FREE!
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- 2011 Mustang GT
I've got the KVR cross-drilled on my front and the Power Slot slotted/dimpled on my back, and I would suggest going with the basic Power Slot rotors. Couple them with some Hawk HPS pads and some DOT4 fluid and you should be good for street driving.
I've got the RotorWorks X-drilled and Slotted with PosiQuiet pads that came with the rotors for free. Picked up on Ebay 180 plus shipping. Very good deal for very good brakes. Very noticeable braking especially when your brakes are properly bled (unlike mine because on of my bleeder bolts broke) but yeah. Do it to it.
slotted are good if your don't want to worry bout the drilled parts of the rotor starting to crack. either that or don't get aerospeed slotted and drilled mines look like they are about to blow up but this is after 20k+ miles and an after market turbo install plus countless high speed breaking from ~136 to ~80mph
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
winty87 said:
I have the smae setup as you and I love them.. BTW do you have your slots facing forward or backwards on your car?
NoRotorNoMotor
Member
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- 2003.5 Black Protege5
i am about to do this as well, shouldnt they face forward?
like this
(blackp5)
.....\ ..........\ <-slots forward
(blackp5)
..../ ........../ <-slots backward
like this
(blackp5)
.....\ ..........\ <-slots forward
(blackp5)
..../ ........../ <-slots backward
OEM style blank rotors + good pad + high temp fluid = the best option IMO. I have yet to warp a rotor, even after 30mins of track driving and overheating the brakes was only an issue after 20mins w/ 125*F track temps.
Why spend more than $30 for a rotor? Unless you're a hardcore autoXer who wants to save every ounce of rotating weight and have a good selection of pads, they offer no improvement.
Why spend more than $30 for a rotor? Unless you're a hardcore autoXer who wants to save every ounce of rotating weight and have a good selection of pads, they offer no improvement.
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- 2011 Mustang GT
Would you recommend DOT4 or DOT5 fluid?
Note: if you use DOT5 you will have to flush your entire system since it is a different base than DOT3 and DOT4.
Note: if you use DOT5 you will have to flush your entire system since it is a different base than DOT3 and DOT4.
low_psi said:
I did some research on the direction of the slots a while back. You want the outside diameter of the slots to hit the caliper first!
The reason for the slots are to help vent gasses, but mostly to slice the glaze off of the pads. The wholes are to release the dust. I say get booth. You can get them cheap if you look around. I did not measure, but I would bet money that my stopping distance dropped big time.
The reason for the slots are to help vent gasses, but mostly to slice the glaze off of the pads. The wholes are to release the dust. I say get booth. You can get them cheap if you look around. I did not measure, but I would bet money that my stopping distance dropped big time.
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