Correct jacking technique

woot woot

Member
:
Mazda 2
Just had a question as to how people jack the car up to put on stands front and rear. I jacked up the car side to side and did a bit of damage to the pinch weld and am super annoyed at it.

I was considering buying a rubber block and cutting a slot through it so it will lift from the sill but will still have the issue of not being able to put a stand in as the jack will be taking the spot. I jacked teh rear from the torsion beam.

How are people doing this?
 
I usually jack from the pinch weld, but I don't do it with the jack perpendicular to the car. When I do it I make sure that the jack is at an angle. When the jack lifts it doesn't go straight up. It pull back. Well that puts a slight pull on the side of the pinch weld. With it at an angle it can't pull the weld to the side. Been pretty much fine so far. I am pretty sure you can jack from the front subframe, but it is hard to get a jack that far in when you are lowered. I have also jacked the rear up putting the jack under the rear tow hook.
 
I jack up my 2 the same as I did for my 3... using a 2x4 block of wood helps to not distort the pinch weld. Here's a thread with pics of what I did for my MZ3:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...k-up-my-Mazda3-to-get-all-4-wheels-in-the-air

Edit: a jack with really smooth wheels helps a lot.

FYI, you probably shouldn't use wood for that. Wood can split under load, and then your car comes crashing down on you. You can buy rubber pads to place on your axle stands or jack, which protect the pinch welds, and this is a much safer option.
 
Get a hockey puck. works just as well as those fancy rubber things. you cut a groove in to about 1/2" deep. if you are scared the puck will split, glue 2 together and cut the ridge in just the top one..

As for the 2, I run it up on 2 2 foot long 2x12's and put the jack under the motor mount bracket on the subframe. Make sure you get it on the flat spot, and not on the mount itself. pops the whole front end up so you can get stands under the pinch welds or front control arms.
 
Thanks for all the help guys.

Jasyatz do you mean to support the front from the front subframe? I was not sure if it could support the front end? I did not realise the mount had a flat spot to jack from.


flatlander937 would i be bale to use one of these from the sill half way dow the car and it will not bend anything? I know you used a plank of wood but my jack has a metal pad that will distort the wood easily.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/I6automo...king-Pad-/151176258502?_trksid=p2054897.l4275


ZPS2004 thanks i will use the rear tow hook for the rear. I did the rear springs and felt wierd about jacking it from the torsion bar and watch the shocks compress
 
Get a hockey puck. works just as well as those fancy rubber things. you cut a groove in to about 1/2" deep. if you are scared the puck will split, glue 2 together and cut the ridge in just the top one..

That is genius. As a Canadian, I am ashamed that I did not think of this first.
 
flatlander937 would i be bale to use one of these from the sill half way dow the car and it will not bend anything? I know you used a plank of wood but my jack has a metal pad that will distort the wood easily.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/I6automo...king-Pad-/151176258502?_trksid=p2054897.l4275


Should be fine.


Jacking the car higher(like trying to jack one side like 20" in the air while the other is on the ground) and using a jack with crappy wheels/casters will make it more likely to bend the pinch rail, just be aware of that. If I need the car pretty high up I'll get both sides on jack stands first and level, then adjust each side one at a time to the desired final height.



As for the wood I used, it's pressure treated lumber... good stuff you build houses out of. Because of the resins that are forced into the wood under pressure it's much less likely to split like plain old wood. Also make sure you get something that has the grain going laterally, not horizontally when viewed from the end that way the layers of wood grain are being compressed into each other, not trying to separate them by using the pinch rail like a knife(which is what someone above was concerned about).



It's perfectly fine if you use your head and at least take a look at it before/after each time you use it.


I'll add that I like 6 ton jack stands a lot, the ones I have are a bit shallower so they don't hit the body before the pinch weld(like my 2 ton stands do), and they're just a hell of a lot more sturdy, the extra height is perfect to keep them on the lowers setting(or just 1-2 notches up) and have plenty of room underneath.


Here are the HF 2 ton stands:



And the 6 ton stands:




FWIW I have had a 2 ton stand fail on me, the handle that releases the locking mechanism separated from the locking mechanism, so when the handle was down, the tooth wasn't actually fully engaged and it slipped off. Be extra careful when you have 2k+ lbs over your head.
 
Thanks looks like i need new stands also. I put some etch primer on it also. just hope i do not have to worry about it rusting ever.
 
Back