Check engine light , engine powerloss.

[madmax007]

Hi guys, I'm new here as you can see and I have a bit of a problem. I bought a 2006 Mazda 5 GS in November 2010 and the check engine light came on. The problem is that the engine power is kind of cut off. The engine idle fine but as soon as I hit the accelerator there is no power. I nursed it home and checked out the fluid levels in case there was some sort of "engine protect" module. (I had this on my 2001 volvo v70) which I traded for this Mazda. When I started it back up, the problem was gone but the light stayed on for about 3 days then went out. Yesterday the same thing happened, check engine , no power. Thought there might be water in fuel so I went to the service station and tanked up adding some gas line antifreeze. As soon as I restarted the car...no more problem but the light is still on. I have a 2.3 litre in this one. I read on some other forum that there were problems with a speed controller...I dunno...I'm stumped. I took mechanics in school but cars in 1982 were alot easier to work on than today. Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks in advance.

 

[SuperJETT]

It will take some time for a code to go away, but you need to know what code is set first because you're just guessing otherwise.

 

[Sounbwoy]

You can get a basic code reader from any parts store or carry the car to them and they can pull the code for free (usually). You've got to find out what the code is that's making the light come on. Off the top of my head, I'd say spark issues.

 

[skyhawk]

You can get a basic code reader from any parts store or carry the car to them and they can pull the code for free (usually). You've got to find out what the code is that's making the light come on. Off the top of my head, I'd say spark issues.

 

[madmax007]

Thanks for the input guys, I purchased the pocketscan plus by actron. I'll give it a go and post later.

thanks again,

 

[madmax007]

Hi again, I got a p2119 code. It says something's up with the throttle actuator control. I don't know if this would give me the problem I had, but maybe. It seemed like a throttle issue.

 

[Sounbwoy]

That makes sense. No action on the throttle and it idles fine but as soon as you crack it, nothing's home. It's a throttle body issue and and more than likely, the throttle body would have to be replaced. If the actuator is a separate control, then maybe just the actuator itself...

 

[Silentnoise713]

Try looking up Mazda 3

The Mazda 3 and 5 share many components, which is a good thing b/c the Mazda 3 community is much bigger and have probably gone through every known CEL by now

Google 'Mazda 3 P2119' and I'm sure you'll find the answer.

For example:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123787142-Code-P2119-Throttle-actuator

 

[mazdadude]

Several possible causes could be a failed or sluggish throttle actuator,or a poor connection at the electrical connectors.

Remove and reseat the connector at the throttle actuator.

 

[madmax007]

Thanks a bunch so far guys, you rock! I purchased an extended warranty and this seems covered so I'll let ya's know, I have an appointment at my dealer tomorrow.

 

[Sounbwoy]

Check Mazdadude's suggestion. Might be worth it and save yourself some time and trouble.

 

[flcruising]

I also suggest (if you are mechanically inclined), it could also be a dirty t/b. Remove to clean it. Otherwise, let your dealer handle it. Though I have head before that the t/b was not covered by extended warranty, or maybe that was the MAF sensor?

 

[skyhawk]

Hi again, I got a p2119 code. It says something's up with the throttle actuator control. I don't know if this would give me the problem I had, but maybe. It seemed like a throttle issue.

It can happen if the throttle 'butterfly' does not go back to its 'expected' position --- could be dirty in there.

The OP says it is covered under warranty.. But I thought I would share the ff: info.

From the pages of my mazda5 2006GT workshop manual.

" DTC P2119" " The PCM compares the TP (throttle position) with the default TP when the ignition is 'SWITCHED OFF'. If the TP is higher than
the default T/P, the PCM determines that there is a throttle actuator control throttle body range/performance problem.

- This is a continous monitor
- MIL illuminates if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition in the first drive cycle.

Possible cause:
- Throttle Actuator Malfunction
- Throttle Valve malfunction
- PCM malfunction.

===

I guess the dealer tech will just swap out the entire assembly.
Saves time.

 

[Sounbwoy]

Enough carbon in a 2006 to cause that? I guess anything is possible, and he bought it used. They'll probably keep the MAF and swap everything else..

 

[flcruising]

Carbon is not the culprit, it's bypass gases and oil particles - the pcv system essentially. It's all sucked back in infront of the t/b. Dirt that gets past the air filter builds too. Typical for all vehicles, just causes issues on some earlier than others. Guess even more so on throttle-by-wire.

 

[Sounbwoy]

to the OP..any word?

 

[madmax007]

Hi guys, well the tech hooked it up to his pc and yep it's the t/b . He figures that there must be some moisture trapped in there somewhere and it froze the actuator. When the engine warmed up enough and I shut it down and restarted, it worked fine and the CEL went out a few days later as there was no more moisture. The t/b is covered by my extended warranty but we're waiting to see what Mazda Canada will say, maybe they will foot the bill but I wont hold my breath. For now, I'm gonna let the engine warm up enough before I pull out, especially if I'm just going a short distance. Later

 

[madmax007]

Hi guys this thread is dead....Mazda dealer bites big time...They gave me the run around aaand tried to ding me for 50 bucks for their diagnostic. I told them I diagnosed the problem and told them what it was BEFORE they hooked it up. Damn theives they are. They claimed to have called Mazda Canada to see if they could do anything and said Mazda won't guarantee the TB. I has been working fine so far and with the cold weather all but gone it should be ok. I'm still gonna take off the airbox and have a look at this thing and see if there is some possible carbon buildup. Thanks again for your comments and suggestions,
you guys rock,

thanks,

Barry