Change Rear Brakes on 2016 CX-9 with electric emergency brake?

Looking really sharp with the wheel set up! Do you have wheel spacers on by chance?
Also, our rotor size seem identical as a set from a Yaris, no? 😂

I wanted to go bigger with the rotor but the additional cost to replace calipers etc not worth the extra. Mazda didn't skimp out on this vehicle-- the exception being the brake set up that is.

How is the brake dust btw? The stock brakes from the dealer is hella nasty on the stock rims.
 
Thanks @Fawiek! Yes I do have spacers on the rear, but they are only 5mm thick.

It may be too soon to tell regarding the brake dust, but as far as I'm aware, there is none. I'm not even sure I had any brake dust issues with the OEM pads, to be honest.
 
About 2 weeks into the new setup.

 
Tip for all brake bleeding...remove the bleed nipple and put a light smear of plumber's thread paste on the threads, then put the bleed nipple back in place. The thread paste will keep the bleeder from rusting in place and it'll seal the threads when you loosen it and vacuum bleed it.

Tip for the electric parking brake...follow the instructions for maintenance mode. If you don't hear them moving and don't get the correct ((P)) symbol, try it again. If they won't release try the first step again, then the second step. If you get it all right on the first time, buy a lottery ticket...this is your lucky day.

If the rear inner pads wear faster than any of the others, you need to replace the defectively designed rear calipers that don't fully release the pads when the parking brake is released. New versions are on dealers' shelves. (I just got some from Med Center Mazda with a good price, free shipping, and no sales tax.) There is a TSB about the calipers. If you're out of warranty, well, dig into your wallet. This is another item that Mazda failed to properly test long term before production.

When changing a caliper you need to remove the parking brake motor after putting the parking brakes into maintenance mode. Squirt some good penetrating oil (Kroil or B'laster PB are my favorites, not WD-40) into the back end of the hole the brake motor bolt is in. You'll need a hex bit (Allen bit) to unscrew its 2 bolts. You really don't want to break these bolts. You'll need to reuse the o-ring that seals the motor; a dab of silicone grease helps it slide in. (For some Mazda reason the new caliper comes with two new mounting bolts, nothing wrong with the old bolts, but no new o-ring.) Reinstall the motor with care...it's plastic.

When changing the caliper have 2 new 9.9mm I.D. copper washers ready for each brake hose banjo bolt.
 
Tip for all brake bleeding...remove the bleed nipple and put a light smear of plumber's thread paste on the threads, then put the bleed nipple back in place. The thread paste will keep the bleeder from rusting in place and it'll seal the threads when you loosen it and vacuum bleed it.
Thanks for the tip.


Tip for the electric parking brake...follow the instructions for maintenance mode. If you don't hear them moving and don't get the correct ((P)) symbol, try it again. If they won't release try the first step again, then the second step. If you get it all right on the first time, buy a lottery ticket...this is your lucky day.
;)


If the rear inner pads wear faster than any of the others, you need to replace the defectively designed rear calipers that don't fully release the pads when the parking brake is released. New versions are on dealers' shelves. (I just got some from Med Center Mazda with a good price, free shipping, and no sales tax.) There is a TSB about the calipers. If you're out of warranty, well, dig into your wallet. This is another item that Mazda failed to properly test long term before production.
This defective rear disk brake calipers with EPB should be a voluntary safety recall by Mazda, instead Mazda only issued several TSBs for the rear disk brake dragging or even locking up which really a safety hazard. Mazda started with a revised EPB control module trying to resolve the problem, eventually found out the culprit which is really the defective disk calipers.

TSB No.: 04-001/18 Noise from Rear Brakes Due To Brake Dragging

If the rear disk calipers were made before 9/7/2016, you need a pair of new disk calipers. Check the date code stamped in the caliper.


When changing a caliper you need to remove the parking brake motor after putting the parking brakes into maintenance mode. Squirt some good penetrating oil (Kroil or B'laster PB are my favorites, not WD-40) into the back end of the hole the brake motor bolt is in. You'll need a hex bit (Allen bit) to unscrew its 2 bolts. You really don't want to break these bolts. You'll need to reuse the o-ring that seals the motor; a dab of silicone grease helps it slide in. (For some Mazda reason the new caliper comes with two new mounting bolts, nothing wrong with the old bolts, but no new o-ring.) Reinstall the motor with care...it's plastic.

When changing the caliper have 2 new 9.9mm I.D. copper washers ready for each brake hose banjo bolt.
Thanks for the information on available parts to replace calipers. The TSB also listed required parts to replace the calipers. It does list the Motor Seal Kit, p/n: KAY0-26-44Z which contains 2 seals.

AB324A1D-1A2F-4793-ABE1-AB8881F6DA8C.jpeg
 
Yes, two parking brake actuator seal kits would be good to have, but $19 each for an o-ring and two small bolts! The o-ring is merely a weather seal, not a pressure seal. Replacement bolts are available in any good hardware store. High strength bolts aren't needed, they bolt down a plastic piece.

Too many Mazda parts fail that should never fail. The cars are innovative and exciting, but the gen. 1 transfer cases should not turn themselves into a briquet, Mazda didn't do a good job selecting that Ford engine with that water pump, and the gen. 2 cylinder heads, brake calipers, oil seals, and heater cores should never fail in reasonable mileage. I won't buy another Mazda.
 
Hi eveyone. You might have seen my post already. Since we talked about rear brakes, I decided to copy post here too.

Tossing my data in cx 9 2016 at 105k. 80% highway drive. From 2019 to 2022 I added 70k miles. I also own a cx 5 2014. Purchased the cx 9 GT 2016 in 2019 used with 28k miles and possibly zero oil change...

First set of OEM Front lasted to 51k, I replaced it a bit early. Since I already removed everything and brake was cheap. I was lazy and left the rear for another day.

At 76k usage I replaced the back set, it was about time. Wagner OEX


The good: At 105k, (52k usage) front look amazing. I don't have a those tools to measure.. But I use two of those 1 gallon paint sticks. That gives you an good idea on how new it is. I'll show you the same on my unused one.

Back looks horrible, I heard some sounds and decided to remove / add new brake grease. It was worn down at 28k usage...

I had a lot of rust dust / brake dust. It clogged piston a bit ( I had to tear it because I over extended it...).

I attach a few pictures.
1) Current Front Wagner OEX at 52k usage
2) picture of new front unused Raybestos eht1258H with the paint stick 👌
3) New rear raybestos eht1934H
4) Old rear Wagner 28k miles
5) The build up of the dust powdered on the pad

PS) My rear Wagner for Cx 5 didn't last as long also. I think about 35k and was metal (6) main issue was the brake caliper not releasing and destroy my break rotor and pad. There was a bit of life on it. Maybe 5-7k more. If everything had no issues. But it 100% wear out faster then OEM

Ty for all those mazda user that spend time post and document
 

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Hi eveyone. You might have seen my post already. Since we talked about rear brakes, I decided to copy post here too.

Tossing my data in cx 9 2016 at 105k. 80% highway drive. From 2019 to 2022 I added 70k miles. I also own a cx 5 2014. Purchased the cx 9 GT 2016 in 2019 used with 28k miles and possibly zero oil change...

First set of OEM Front lasted to 51k, I replaced it a bit early. Since I already removed everything and brake was cheap. I was lazy and left the rear for another day.

At 76k usage I replaced the back set, it was about time. Wagner OEX


The good: At 105k, (52k usage) front look amazing. I don't have a those tools to measure.. But I use two of those 1 gallon paint sticks. That gives you an good idea on how new it is. I'll show you the same on my unused one.

Back looks horrible, I heard some sounds and decided to remove / add new brake grease. It was worn down at 28k usage...

I had a lot of rust dust / brake dust. It clogged piston a bit ( I had to tear it because I over extended it...).

I attach a few pictures.
1) Current Front Wagner OEX at 52k usage
2) picture of new front unused Raybestos eht1258H with the paint stick 👌
3) New rear raybestos eht1934H
4) Old rear Wagner 28k miles
5) The build up of the dust powdered on the pad

PS) My rear Wagner for Cx 5 didn't last as long also. I think about 35k and was metal (6) main issue was the brake caliper not releasing and destroy my break rotor and pad. There was a bit of life on it. Maybe 5-7k more. If everything had no issues. But it 100% wear out faster then OEM

Ty for all those mazda user that spend time post and document
Doesn't really surprise me as the rear brakes in these cars are said to grab first on sight initial contact to minimize front dip sensation during normal driving.

My personal experience is I needed to replace the rear will before the fronts, the fronts had another 40% live easily at the time the rear was shot.

Just the way these cars are designed.
 
Here is the procedure for the CX-5, same for the CX-9

Switching On Maintenance Mode

1. Switch the ignition ON (engine off). (you have to press the start button TWICE) pressing once only gives you ACC power, (do not press on brake otherwise engine will start, engine must be off)

2. Release the electric parking brake. (to release the parking brake, you have to have your foot on the brake pedal, then press down on EPB switch to release it, you will hear the motor releasing and the light on the EPB switch light goes off)

• (I'll simplify remaining steps here: after step 2, release foot from brake pedal, and move over and press accelerator pedal down fully and press down on the EPB switch at the same time and hold, then press the start button 3 times quickly, you will hear the motor moving and the yellow parking brake with exclamation point light up) you are now in maintenance mode.

Now go do whatever you need to do on the brakes, for the rear brake pistons DO NOT TURN THE PISTONS, compress them straight back like you would do the fronts. After they are compressed back make sure the grooves are lined up in perfect North South orientation per Mazda instructions use Lisle #28600 for minor adjustments only.

Even if you don't plan to do your own brakes, it would be a good idea to let your mechanic know about the maintenance mode. They might not be aware and turn the piston which may damage the EPB motor.





Ending Maintenance Mode

1. Switch the ignition ON (engine off). (you have to press the start button TWICE (do not press on brake otherwise engine will start, engine must be off) pressing once only gives you ACC power

(I'll simplify the remaining steps here: press accelerator pedal down fully and pull up on the EPB switch at the same time and hold, then press the start button 3 times quickly, you will hear the motor moving back and the yellow parking brake with exclamation point goes out)

you can then move your foot and press on the brake pedal and pull up the EPB, you will see the normal red brake light light up and you're done.
Help please;((Sunday night car stuck in my garage
I cant get out of service mode the rear passenger brake make rotating noise for 20 seconds then NOTHING...I lifted the car only this wheel is stuck 3 other rotates. Can I manually unstuck the brakes ?
 
Yes you can. If you are in service mode. Unplug the EPB power supply. Remove the bolts, and that housing can be removed. Use a Allen key or wrench to screw it. The blue thing. I forgot which direction. But that should give you enough gap to remove it.

Bad news. You might need to check out the caliper, might be bad. Lowest one I found was $230? Dealer was $380. My current one got stuck a due to heavy brake dust. Lucky I was able to rebuild it.

Since EPB is off, you can do the 12V trick to see if it works. It you have a 12V battery, tap with a wire. It should work. If you flip it, it should go in other direction.
 

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I see..I saw a video where it says to rotate the allen wrench clockwise to release pressure then take off caliper then eventually push the piston in. Not sure about the 12 V trick..Why do I have to mess up with that? Is it because it's stuck in open position, pushing piston out?
If so which wire do I have to hook to 12V
Have you done this before?
Thank you
 
I see..I saw a video where it says to rotate the allen wrench clockwise to release pressure then take off caliper then eventually push the piston in. Not sure about the 12 V trick..Why do I have to mess up with that? Is it because it's stuck in open position, pushing piston out?
If so which wire do I have to hook to 12V
Have you done this before?
Thank you
Well, you can toss everything back and see first. Since it is off, and if you have the test setup. You can make sure. But isn't that important. I done the test before on other items. Especially new ones. From what I heard. The EPB should move around and figure things out.

The wire didn't matter, if you flip it then it would go on one direction or other. But I think it is best if you don't mess with it. Deal with it if it don't release again. From what it seems, it pushed in and not out. Maybe a jam in caliper

For example we just removed a fuel pump from cargo van. To remove it, we had to dual jack the back. There is no tank access without removal of the whole tank. We didn't want to install a product that wasn't working. It does happen.
 
Help please;((Sunday night car stuck in my garage
I cant get out of service mode the rear passenger brake make rotating noise for 20 seconds then NOTHING...I lifted the car only this wheel is stuck 3 other rotates. Can I manually unstuck the brakes ?
Thanks but it doesnt work at all.
I had the wheel locked without going into service mode. I did try the service mode to see if I could restet everything . Obviously Im way past that now and need to manually release the caliper piston to rotate the wheel
 
I must have missed the part that you didn't enter service mode on purpose. So It is probably the caliper that's not releasing. It happened to me on my CX5, I posted how it destroyed my pads and my rotor. Lucky it want a EPB. Old way is so much easier.

The blue I circle show just the metal, no pads
 

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Well, you can toss everything back and see first. Since it is off, and if you have the test setup. You can make sure. But isn't that important. I done the test before on other items. Especially new ones. From what I heard. The EPB should move around and figure things out.

The wire didn't matter, if you flip it then it would go on one direction or other. But I think it is best if you don't mess with it. Deal with it if it don't release again. From what it seems, it pushed in and not out. Maybe a jam in caliper

For example we just removed a fuel pump from cargo van. To remove it, we had to dual jack the back. There is no tank access without removal of the whole tank. We didn't want to install a product that wasn't working. It does happen.
Right ..tonight Ill try releasing the caliper with the allen wrench/ or whatever tool needed . In case I need it towed to mechanic the car has to be moving ;)))) I hear the actuator moving so I know it works but probably not correctly because it doesnt unlock the Rear passenger brake.
Will.see thank you for the help
I appreciate it
 
If you going to swap out the caliper or rebuild. Be sure to bleed correctly. I had to leave engine on, make sure bottle is on top, and grease the drain nipple to prevent back flow of air. It was a lot of bleeding for it. Over 200 pumps. Then you need to do other four. Literally just did it two days ago.

And it was a caliper issue. I think you should rename title if possible. "Rear brake caliper failure and fix".

I wish I was able to detail more on it. But it was a messy job and can't keep asking wife to take picture of my fix.
 
If you going to swap out the caliper or rebuild. Be sure to bleed correctly. I had to leave engine on, make sure bottle is on top, and grease the drain nipple to prevent back flow of air. It was a lot of bleeding for it. Over 200 pumps. Then you need to do other four. Literally just did it two days ago.

And it was a caliper issue. I think you should rename title if possible. "Rear brake caliper failure and fix".

I wish I was able to detail more on it. But it was a messy job and can't keep asking wife to take picture of my fix.
Ok ..step by step lets see if I can release the caliper first....
How do I know if the caliper has to be replaced?
 
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