Can't figure out what the deal with my boost is...

[BlueBeast22]

Ok, since I've been modding my MSP about 2 years ago I have noticed abnormal boost issues. Sometimes the car boosted quicker than other times, and I just brushed it off as it being a bad WGA or my MBC. I have the hiboost FMIC, Injen CAI, 3inch Apexr1 Jpipe back exhaust + other mods. But I just recently got sick of the stock WGA since I thought it was bad and changed it with the ATP 6psi WGA. Now it just seems that my boost isnt boosting as quick as it should. (with the stock WGA it would sometimes boost quickly and sometimes the same way its boosting now)

Here is an example... I talked to my friend who used to own a black MSP with pretty much the same mods. If he was say in 2nd or 3rd gear at 2k rpm and floors it his boost would quickly be at 10psi at around 3k RPM's where he had it set. Me? nope... my boost just stays at 1-2psi and SLOWLY climbs to 8-9 untill like 6000 RPM's. Now maybe his boost controller was the reason why but still im currently not running anything and it still feels like it should be boosting when its not. I dont believe its a boost leak because when its at full boost it holds boost which in my case its 9psi with no MBC. I also know its not a vaccume leak because im constantly reading 24 vac under normal idle. I have changed out alot of my hoses with silicone, and I ziptied them to make sure they dont leak.

One more thing, I have noticed that the needle in the boost gauge will shake irradically(sp?) and not smooth like it should be and it will eventually settle down at the proper psi(9) I figured it might just be my gauge but I tried another gauge and it did the same. I dont ever remember the gauge acting this way untill I put in my FMIC. Anyways all im looking for is any advice from anyone who has had this issue or knows what could be causing it.

 

[BlueBeast22]

Oh and I also noticed this more when Its hot rather than cold. I do know that cold air = a more dense charge but still I didnt think that heat would cause so much turbo lag... if thats what it truely is.

 

[BOOSTR]

What's your RPM at idle. A 24 vacuum reading is higher than the norm. Go back and double check all of your clamps, hoses, and vacuum connections.

 

[Matthew1785]

i usually get 24-25 when im crusing w/ my foot off the gas it goes back to 20 when im at a dead stop at idle

 

[BOOSTR]

That's ok as well as normal....idle vacuum of 24 suggest a problem exist.

 

[BlueBeast22]

What kind of issue would be causing me to have a vacuum of 24 at idle. Cause thats another thing, when it runs right, at idle it is at like 21-22 vac, not 24. BUT it only seems to go to 24 vac when its warmer outside. During the cooler months it was always between 21 and 22 vac. I've read on the forums that anywhere from 18-24 was "normal"

 

[BlueBeast22]

I will try to take some pictures today, and maybe a video to see if I cant show you guys what im talkin about.

 

[BlueBeast22]

Drove into work this morning, when my car is off the boost gauge dial is right at the 0, actually a little under (which means the gauge might not be calibrated correctly) and when at idle its holding inbetween 23 and 24 vac. Car seemed to boost pretty normal but then again it was pretty cool outside. We will see how it is once its warmer.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

definetely seems like a vacuum line connection somewhere is messed up

 

[Kansei]

Wait so you don't have an MBC? well that could be part of the problem. stock the MSP doesn't have any boost control solenoid so if you want to build boost as quickly as possible and hold it, you need an MBC so that the wastegate doesn't just progressively open more and more as you are trying to get up to your max boost.

 

[BlueBeast22]

I had the JoeP MBC installed yesterday and I took it out to see if that helped which it didn't. Still having the same issues... I took a couple of videos with my dig camera on the way to lunch today so I will get more and try to post them up sometime. One thing I have been considering...

I have the Hiboost FMIC, and during installation one of the couplings didnt fit right because the pipes had to much of a gap between them. (common problem with some hiboost kits from what ive read) and I ended up using a hump coupler that you would normally use on like a bend. I put it on the part of the IC pipes where the pipe is behind the bumper (put the hump hose on a straight part of the IC piping instead of a bend) because at the time thats all i had that would make it fit. I have a feeling that this could be causing some irratic boost due to the fact that the hump coupler is filling with pressure and possibly causing turbulance in the IC piping. (this is what a friend is telling me could be an issue) I guess this could be the reason im seeing my boost gauge needle fluttering under boost, and not vacuum.

And as to why its boosting so slow? maybe because of the incorrect coupler I have one the pipe or maybe its because my MBC is a POS.

 

[crashkelly]

could this prob be due to the fact that you switched the stock adjustable wga with one that is set at 6psi but your mods are naturally producing more than 6psi of boost? i had a mbc and i hated it because of the huge spike so i took it off and the car is naturally making 8-9 psi just cause of the mods i have instead of going back to 6.5psi stock boost.

 

[msp35]

maybe your turbo is just ******.

 

[BlueBeast22]

Turbo seems fine to me. Sometimes take its sweet ass time to get full boost but it holds boost just fine and doesnt make any odd noises, no smoke... no oil leaks nothing. Maybe im just running extremely rich mid-range

 

[2.0t03speed]

yea when i took a ride in it the other day it seemed wierd i would definetly think you would be spooling quicker than me. and it was also wierd that i could keep up with you in low and mid range but ur top end is ****** insane lol.

 

[ChopstickHero]

I had the JoeP MBC installed yesterday and I took it out to see if that helped which it didn't. Still having the same issues... I took a couple of videos with my dig camera on the way to lunch today so I will get more and try to post them up sometime. One thing I have been considering...

I have the Hiboost FMIC, and during installation one of the couplings didnt fit right because the pipes had to much of a gap between them. (common problem with some hiboost kits from what ive read) and I ended up using a hump coupler that you would normally use on like a bend. I put it on the part of the IC pipes where the pipe is behind the bumper (put the hump hose on a straight part of the IC piping instead of a bend) because at the time thats all i had that would make it fit. I have a feeling that this could be causing some irratic boost due to the fact that the hump coupler is filling with pressure and possibly causing turbulance in the IC piping. (this is what a friend is telling me could be an issue) I guess this could be the reason im seeing my boost gauge needle fluttering under boost, and not vacuum.

And as to why its boosting so slow? maybe because of the incorrect coupler I have one the pipe or maybe its because my MBC is a POS.

i don't think it has anything to do with the couplers.

you may have a sticky wastegate. how you are describing it seems to fit the description. at times, it will stay closed to help you build boost faster. when you build boost slow, it is struggling to close fast enough.

 

[BlueBeast22]

Yeah, but honestly I notice it more when its warmer outside. I do know that cold air and hot air affect boost but will it affect spooling as well? And I still dont know what the deal is with the boost gauge fluttering...

 

[BlueBeast22]

also when I changed out my WGA with the ATP one the wastegate flapper or control arm moved freely, didnt stick at all. I moved it around quite a bit to get the WGA seated properly so I know its not sticking.