Boostscience RDV, and custom injen/hotpipe

Jboost

Member
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2003.5 MSP
Just like the title explains by car is currently at a buddies shop getting a custom hotpipe made with a 1" recurc tube and a modifying my intake to have a 1" recurc as well. If all goes correctly and as stated by 505zoom i should have a turkey free MSP by the end of the night (cabpatch) (possibly tomorrow morning)
 
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well its done, there is a teenie tiny bit of turkey, much better than stock. The only thing that I have not done that was said to get done is two seperate dedicated vaccum lines; a.k.a one for the wastegate and one for the BPV.
 
Thats what i'm thinking is the issue, however I did PM 505zoom to get his opinion on the subject. mikeski have you done this before or just read about it? sorry if i don't responded i'm tired as hell and my bed is calling my name.
 
505 lied, that gives u more turkey!!

lol, surely you are joking. Richman DOES NOT lie. (glare)

For any true doubters, here is a little somethin for ya...

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That is my setup, no BOV on the car. Only a BoostSciences RDV, with 1.5" nipples on the pipes, and a 1" ID hose.

Here is what it sounds like:

<embed style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?docId=4331242304846096028&hl=en" flashvars=""> </embed>

Not even a hint o' Turk.

Thats what i'm thinking is the issue, however I did PM 505zoom to get his opinion on the subject. mikeski have you done this before or just read about it? sorry if i don't responded i'm tired as hell and my bed is calling my name.

I saw and replied to your PM before seeing this thread, but yeah, what mikeski said is what you want to try. Don't use one of those crappy "all-sizes-in-one" type deals that they sell at places like autozone, they DO NOT work as good, and they are more expensive. Just a normal T with one small side for the signal line and 2 larger sides for the BB is what you want. Of course, a vacuum block is the best route, but a good T will work just fine.

Let us know how it goes.
 
I did lie, it worked for me perfectly but I went back to the turkey because I like it for some reason....
 
69RMSP, when you did the setup did you use 1" or 1.5" like 505 and did you do seperate vacuum lines I wanted to take care of this today but with work and school it just wasn't working into my schedule hopefully I will have good news for everyone by late friday afternoon.
 
Boost hoenslty this was awhile ago but from what I remember it was a 1'' and I did seperate the vacuum lines (i think)... sorry bud.

69RMSP, when you did the setup did you use 1" or 1.5" like 505 and did you do seperate vacuum lines I wanted to take care of this today but with work and school it just wasn't working into my schedule hopefully I will have good news for everyone by late friday afternoon.
 
it's all good man i'm just wondering about other's who have run this setup. Thanks again to 505zoom and all of the other MSP Vetrans for help. I just really want this turkey gone (i'll probably miss it) but i want it gone.
 
Well i just ran the two seperate vacuum lines and i still got a little turkey and now the stalling issue is worse than ever. If the valve opens and i put it in neutral i get a battery light and oil if i tap the gas it's fine. The only gay part is that the part of the line that i chose to cut had a bleeder valve of some sort it that had to come out car runs fine but now i'm trying to figure out what this thing could be and also what it does and if it is the final reason i still have turkey and a damn near stall.
 
Any ideas what the little guy in the brake booster line is for. It allows air through one way and not the other pretty sure I ****** up big on cut location. Also pretty sure that this car is going back to stock pretty quick cause this is really pissing me off.
 
That is a check valve and it needs to be in there. The tap needs to go on the passenger side of the valve.

Sorry man I feel terrible... It was late when I told you about that fix and I have said it so many times on here that part of me thought it had become common knowledge.
 
Hey i'm definetly not blaming you here s*** happens when you mod a car (also when you party naked but that is off topic). Live and learn it is like $40 dollars off of the wholesale mazda site. Should I not drive it like this??? it runs but not great.
 
If you didn't throw it away, just warm up the hose, use some lube of some sort, and shove the valve back into the hose.
 
Yes, the check valve should be on the drivers side of your cut. The idea is that it blocks boost from going to your BB canister, but allows vacuum... so the tap needs to be on the engine side of the valve.
 
I hate You!!! MY Boostscience sounded like poop!!!! I didnt install it like that either, it almost sounds like its VTA.
 
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