Blower Motor Question - Set Screw?

RalphM

Member
:
2016 Mazda CX-5
I have almost 20K miles on my 2016 CX-5 which has manual air conditioning. I live in phoenix and when the heat and humidity kick up the blower motor doesn't reach full speed. On a bad day I can have it turned to max and at it's hardest it's blowing with 50% power. Still ice cold just very weak vents. And yes, the cabin air filter is clean. The dealer replaced the blower motor twice last summer and it's going back tomorrow again for the same symptoms. I'm expecting they'll replace the blower motor again.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what the Set Screw in the center of the blower motor does? It has a single dot on it. To the right on the housing there are two horizontal dots and the screw is turned so that the screw's dot is currently in line with those. On the left there are two other dots that are at a 45* angle. Obviously I don't want to monkey w/ it as it's under warranty and going in tomorrow, but i'm still curious. I've spent a lot of time searching for these symptoms online and I seem to be the only one with the issue so yeah... i'm just curious. The PN is HB111D651-06. Can't find anything useful online.
 
Well for what it's worth, there are several of them for sale on various UK/european ebays, so there must be a demand for them!
 
Hmmm which dealer are you taking you CX-5 too? Some other questions before I can offer some tips.

I noticed that our manual AC in the 2013 CX-5 blows cold air faster than the 2016 auto climate AC in the Mazda6. Essentially both have a delay but the CX-5 kicks in at full blast a bit faster. That said how long does it take to cool your car off (when heat soaked and sitting under direct sun) and when parked under shade?

How long does is take for full blast to kick in?

Are you using recirculate or fresh air?

What vent setting are you using?

What color is you car/interior? Tint?

Optional* Are you Ralph Macchio the Karate Kid lol!!


Okay here's my tips as a fellow Arizonian:

IF the air inside the car is hotter than outside temps, use FRESH air AC and select for air to come out of the the vents running across the cabin. (not the windshield vents or floor vents). Why fresh air and not recirculate? Well if its 109 degrees outside the temps in the cabin are much much hotter. Probably a good 30-40 degrees hotter at least if left in the sun. Do the math. It takes longer to condition 109 degree air than 150 degree air. So for extreme cabin temps I do this for about 5-10 minutes while waiting at a store or something. When cabin is cooler than outside air then I switch to recirculate mode. Cabin is nice and cool.


I often open all 4 doors to release hot air trapped before starting up AC.

Get Tint.

Get a custom reflective windshield shade like ones from Heatshield.

After every trip always turn the knob back to Fresh Air. Ensures you don't get that musty mold smell.
 
Last edited:
Why are they replacing motors? Are they actually bad? Other things can affect amount of air coming out of the vents: something clogging them, vents actually misaligned...
From the service manual available in the Lounge Section of this forum:
NO.1 INSUFFICIENT AIR (OR NO AIR) BLOWN FROM VENTS [MANUAL AIR CONDITIONER]
1 Insufficient air (or no air) blown from vents
DESCRIPTION
Problem with each vent and/or duct.
Airflow mode does not change.
POSSIBLE
CAUSE
Malfunction in airflow mode wire
Malfunction in VENT mode system
Malfunction in HEAT mode system
Malfunction in DEFROSTER mode system
Malfunction in next vent or duct (clogging, deformation, air leakage,
improper operation)
Diagnostic procedure
STEP INSPECTION ACTION
1
INSPECT A/C UNIT AIRFLOW MODE
SYSTEM
Inspect the A/C unit and/or
climate control unit airflow
mode links, air airflow mode
cranks, air airflow mode rods,
and wire clamp.
Is there grease
on links and
cranks?
Are links,
cranks, and
rods securely
installed in
their proper
positions?
Is wire clamp
free of
Yes Go to the next step.
No Apply grease or airflow mode the links, cranks,
and rods securely in their proper positions, repair
or replace the airflow mode wire clamp, then go
to Step 9.
NO.1 INSUFFICIENT AIR (OR NO AIR) BLOWN FROM VENTS [MANUAL AIR CONDITIONER]
http://am.mazdaserviceinfo.com/emaz...3/CX5/mv/books/mvw07/html/id0703c2800400.html[1/7/13 1:25:04 PM]
deformation?
Are the above items normal?
2
INSPECT TO SEE WHETHER MALFUNCTION
IS IN VENT MODE OR OTHER MODES
Does air blow out when in the
VENT mode?
Yes Go to Step 5.
No Go to the next step.
3
INSPECT VENT
Is the vent clogged?
Yes Remove obstruction, then go to Step 9.
No Go to the next step.
4
VERIFY THAT DUCT IN DASHBOARD IS
INSTALLED
Is the duct in the dashboard
properly installed?
Yes Inspect the duct for clogging, deformation and air
leakage, then go to Step 9.
No Install the duct securely in the proper position,
then go to Step 9.
5
INSPECT TO SEE WHETHER MALFUNCTION
IS IN HEAT MODE OR DEFROSTER MODE
Does air blow out when in the
HEAT mode?
Yes Go to the next step.
No Inspect the vent for clogging, then go to Step 9.
6
INSPECT DEFROSTER MODE
Does air blow out when in the
DEFROSTER mode?
Yes Operation is normal. Recheck malfunction
symptoms.
No Go to the next step.
7
INSPECT VENT
Is the vent clogged?
Yes Remove obstruction, then go to Step 9.
No Go to the next step.
8
VERIFY THAT DEFROSTER DUCT IS
INSTALLED
Is the defroster duct properly
installed?
Yes Inspect the duct for clogging, deformation, and
air leakage, then go to the next step.
No Install the duct securely in proper position, then
go to the next step.
9
CONFIRM THAT MALFUNCTION SYMPTOM
DOES NOT RECUR AFTER REPAIR
Does air blow out?
Yes Troubleshooting completed.
Explain repairs to customer.
No Recheck malfunction symptoms, then repeat
from Step 1 if the malfunction recurs.

If the motor is actually not coming up to speed, the problem could also be a faulty fan speed selector switch. Switch is also wired to a resistor pack which could also be faulty. The problem doesn't necessarily have to be the motor.
 
Last edited:
If the low air flow only occurs when the windows/doors are closed it is possible that the exhaust vent on the drivers side, behind the bumper is blocked or stuck closed. The vent is a couple rubber flaps that open up enough to let air flow out of the car, if the car were air tight you'd get 0 air flow.
 
If the low air flow only occurs when the windows/doors are closed it is possible that the exhaust vent on the drivers side, behind the bumper is blocked or stuck closed. The vent is a couple rubber flaps that open up enough to let air flow out of the car, if the car were air tight you'd get 0 air flow.

When it's on max-air it's being recirculated like a room air conditioner, it's not flowing through the automobile.
OP, you need to ask them why it's going bad. Replacing 3 motors isn't going to solve your problem. If it is the motor going bad, the dealer needs to find out why.
 
Last edited:
There's no good reason why multiple motors would fail. According to my dealer, Mazda won't pay for fixes that don't work... dealer needs to do some digging.
 
Back