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2009~2013 Bearing like noise when turning left only

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2002 Mazda Protege5
I bought a 2012 Mazda3 GT hatch with the 2.5 and 6MT and it was advertised as having a bad driver front wheel bearing. I concurred with this on the test drive as I’ve experienced that problem before, negotiated down, bought it, and replaced the wheel bearing. The noise persisted so I replaced the driver rear as well and no change. Recently the noise seems to be worse.

when I drive straight on at 40+ mph, there’s a constant, synchopated vibration type noise (like vvvVVVvvvVVVvvvVVV). When turning left it gets significantly worse and I can physically feel it in all the pedals and through the floor. When turning right, there is ZERO noise. I’ve checked for rub but I’m running stock wheels with the stock tire size. The clutch doesn’t slip. There’s no clunking from the suspension and no clicking type noises either. The brake pads have plenty of meat and the rotors are smooth. This happened on the 17” tires I bought the car with, the brand new snow tires I put on the 17” wheels, and the 18” speed3 wheels that came with it. My next thought is to replace the transmission fluid and if that doesn’t fix it, the axle. In my head I’m concerned I need a new clutch or, even worse, new diff bearings. Any ideas or suggestions of what this could be would be great! Thanks!
 
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2016 Mazda, CX-5 GT
Reaching for straws here but if you've replaced the wheel bearing how about the CV joint axle? You mentioned when you turned left it gets worse. A lot of times that can be traced back to the CV joint. First thing I would do is inspect the CV joint boots for cracks or leaking grease. If it turns out to be the culprit the replacement part is cheap and it is a do it yourself job if your so inclined.

When you pull the CV joint you may lose transmission fluid so you could knock off two job at once.
 
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2002 Mazda Protege5
Hey Boland thanks for the reply. I did inspect the boots when I replaced the driver wheel bearing and there’s no tears or leaks coming from either boot that I could see. Would the noise be completely gone when turning right if it was an axle? Axles are the same price as redline fluid so not too expensive and probably worth the effort.
 
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2016 Mazda, CX-5 GT
Usually, if a CV joint is bad -depending on the side you will get the noise when you turn one direction and not the other. I've replaced a couple of them on my son's Nissan Altima (one at 150K and the other side at 180K miles) and they weren't that hard to do. Plus they weren't very expensive at all.
 
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2020 CX-5 AWD
My personal experience is the bad wheel bearing is on the opposite side of the turn direction, so noise happening only on a left turn is a bad front right (passenger) side bearing.
 
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