Ask your Haltech questions here!

[turboge]

This thread is meant to be an informative way to let the community of tuners understand what the haltech line of products available for the Mazda FS, and BP motors can and cannot do.

I will do my best to answer all questions, and provide facts and proof of the capabilities of the systems. I have been a haltech tuner for a little over 3 1/2 years now and there are a few members on the board who can also help with this discussion.

I ask that there is no personal drama leaked into this, and that we can keep this discussion civil and professional. If it gets to the point of that I will have the moderators clean this up.

So with that said, please let the questions begin, and I will do my best to inform you all.

 

[boostisgood]

Ahhhhh, Just what I have been looking for.

Turboge, how easy is the install of this unit, and does it retain ALL factory gauges ? Also, seeing as you are tuning one yourself, any chances of purchasing one through you, with a "baseline mapping" to get the car running, and to the dyno for tuning ?

Thanks,
Craig

 

[ARunto]

how about the alternator does it have to be altered?

 

[blackp5ca]

I have a question...tell me if I'm wasting my time..
What can the Haltech system do for us N/A guys? (I am running cams, header, full exhaust, Crank pulley, port & Polish Intake mani, CAI..)
What sort of gains and tuning capabilities can I expect?

 

[turboge]

Turboge, how easy is the install of this unit, and does it retain ALL factory gauges ? Also, seeing as you are tuning one yourself, any chances of purchasing one through you, with a "baseline mapping" to get the car running, and to the dyno for tuning ?

The install is not all that difficult if you are capable of soldering and splicing wires. I have pioneered the endeavor for the E6K install on a USDM MSP and created wiring diagrams and a fairly simple to follow install guide. A normal install would take approximately 4-6 hours depending on how clean you make it.

I originally was going to sell a kit with the "T-Tap" style connectors but found that they were not holding the connection well and moved on to solder without any problems.

The unit I am tuning currently is the E6K, I do have 1 left in stock but after that is gone the E6X's will be replacing them. With the E6K you are required to purchase 1 additional haltech piece in order to retain the use of the factory tachometer, and allow it to run in parrallel with the factory ECU (sharing signals).

I have retained the use of ALL of my factory gauges, and all of the factory sensors, aside from the coolant temp sensor. You will have to use the haltech supplied coolant sensor because the factory one will read incorrectly if you tap into it with the haltech.

Since I am still tuning my car, I do have a "base" map that could be run, but I really wouldn't feel comfortable with an unfinished product going out there. Once I finish tuning my fuel maps, I will finish the timing maps, and try to find a dyno to get some pulls in and possibly fine tune. Right now I am about 80% done tuning for boost up to 9 psi on the factory injectors. Probably 60% with timing, and 75% for cruise and idle.

 

[Chojin]

Turboge -

Sorry, I didn't see your Haltech thread when I started mine (deleting mine now).

-Shawn

 

[turboge]

how about the alternator does it have to be altered?

The alternator does not have to be touched, altered, or even looked at.

 

[Chojin]

For those running a Haltech (F10/E6K/E6X/E11)

(Just deleted my thread)

O.K.,

Just trying to get some clarification in regards to the stock injector duty cycle debate.

Juan with HiBoostTS maintains that he keeps the duty cycle at 70%. Many on here do not see how that is possible. I may have an answer, but it is only speculation as I have not tested it myself:

The Haltech F10 is used to control only the 4 injectors, leaving the stock PCM to control everything else. That being said, the stock PCM still controls the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid. So, if the fuel maps on the F10 were made with the FPR Solenoid adding the appropriate amount of fuel pressure, the 70% duty cycle could be possible.

Now, the Haltech E6K/E6X/E11 do not have control of the FPR Solenoid. That being said, the users of these systems cannot increase fuel pressure accordingly to maintain a 70% duty cycle without increasing base fuel pressure and/or switching to larger injectors.

Just my $0.02.

Please feel free to respond with intelligent answers/comments.

-Shawn

 

[Logan]

How does splicing the haltech into the factory harness without removing the factory ECU not cause both computers to fight for control?
Edit: I guess I'm asking if fuel and timing wires are still run to the factory computer, and all other wires are shared.

 

[boostisgood]

One more question, can the Haltech eliminate the MAF, and convert to a MAP sensor ? Or does it already do this ?

Also, Chojin, couldnt we jsut bypass the FPR Solinoid, and run 1:1 Fuel pressure to boost pressure ? IIRC, that was discussed in antoher thread, regarding Stand Alones.

 

[turboge]

What can the Haltech system do for us N/A guys? (I am running cams, header, full exhaust, Crank pulley, port & Polish Intake mani, CAI..)
What sort of gains and tuning capabilities can I expect?

If the factory fuel and timing maps are not tuned correctly for your mods, you could benefit by adding additional fuel and/or timing in certain positions. Just like a turbo application you would be able to adjust timing and fuel based on load, via TPS or MAP.

I did get a chance to tune my old BP motor in N/A form, with the stock ecu and only a 3" exhaust (leftover from my turbo) I had 118whp. With the haltech I had 122whp. In this case the factory ecu had a very well tuned fuel/timing map and I was only able to extract a little horsepower.....however I did manage to move the torque curve down about 500rpm and peak power up higher.

 

[turboge]

Re: For those running a Haltech (F10/E6K/E6X/E11)

The Haltech F10 is used to control only the 4 injectors, leaving the stock PCM to control everything else. That being said, the stock PCM still controls the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid. So, if the fuel maps on the F10 were made with the FPR Solenoid adding the appropriate amount of fuel pressure, the 70% duty cycle could be possible.

I thought the same as well, so that is why I parralleled my E6K to run just like an F10, leaving the factory ECU in control of the FPR solenoid. Just like Juans setup

Now, the Haltech E6K/E6X/E11 do not have control of the FPR Solenoid. That being said, the users of these systems cannot increase fuel pressure accordingly to maintain a 70% duty cycle without increasing base fuel pressure and/or switching to larger injectors.

The haltech can be setup to use the FPR solenoid...however you would be using it as a "boost control solenoid" and it is only RPM based, not load based. I have contemplated doing that, but don't believe in raising fuel pressure above 1:1 for any application.

I too am curious of the Hi-Boost setup, and have been working on getting my own answers through tuning and support.

 

[turboge]

How does splicing the haltech into the factory harness without removing the factory ECU not cause both computers to fight for control?
Edit: I guess I'm asking if fuel and timing wires are still run to the factory computer, and all other wires are shared.

Good questions....

You do not technically splice the outputs for the injectors and the ignition coils. You simply cut those 6 wires and run the ones from the haltech out..

In my particular setup I have put in a set of 3 switches to allow me to swap back and forther between stock and haltech control of either ignition or fuel at any time.

 

[turboge]

One more question, can the Haltech eliminate the MAF, and convert to a MAP sensor ? Or does it already do this ?

The haltech does not need the MAF sensor to run, it cannot use the MAF sensor to reference it's maps so it is not used. You will be using a 2-bar or 3-bar MAP sensor for boosted applications or a 1-bar for N/A applications (you can also use TPS on N/A but not recommended). If you plan on keeping the car driveable for the street, you really don't need to touch the MAF, my installation retains it and all normal ECU functions.

Also, Chojin, couldnt we jsut bypass the FPR Solinoid, and run 1:1 Fuel pressure to boost pressure ? IIRC, that was discussed in antoher thread, regarding Stand Alones.

I'll answer this one for him if he doesn't mind.

As for the FPR solenoid, I tune with it hooked up as it were factory. You can bypass it but it would require the maps to be re-tuned for the extra 7-8psi of fuel pressure that would allow for stock boost.

 

[jaman]

So is the big "70% duty cylce" controversy over?

 

[Chojin]

boostisgood -

You could run the FPR 1:1, but you will be eliminating the benefit of increasing fuel pressure as needed to maintain an acceptable duty cycle on stock injectors. However, if you upgrade the injectors and have a good controller, the 1:1 FPR will be just fine.

(edit: turboge's answer is also correct)

turboge -

So, with the E6K running as an F10, the duty cycles posted on another thread were with the PCM controlling the FPR Solenoid?

-Shawn

 

[turboge]

So is the big "70% duty cylce" controversy over?

Not until I verify a few things.. but it's close.

 

[turboge]

So, with the E6K running as an F10, the duty cycles posted on another thread were with the PCM controlling the FPR Solenoid?

Yes, the picture I posted were with the factory PCM controlling the FPR solenoid. Seen below for reference.

 

[Logan]

So, the simplest installation with a flashed msp would be an F10?

 

[HiBoost TS]

Re: For those running a Haltech (F10/E6K/E6X/E11)

(Just deleted my thread)

O.K.,

Just trying to get some clarification in regards to the stock injector duty cycle debate.

Juan with HiBoostTS maintains that he keeps the duty cycle at 70%. Many on here do not see how that is possible. I may have an answer, but it is only speculation as I have not tested it myself:

The Haltech F10 is used to control only the 4 injectors, leaving the stock PCM to control everything else. That being said, the stock PCM still controls the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid. So, if the fuel maps on the F10 were made with the FPR Solenoid adding the appropriate amount of fuel pressure, the 70% duty cycle could be possible.

Now, the Haltech E6K/E6X/E11 do not have control of the FPR Solenoid. That being said, the users of these systems cannot increase fuel pressure accordingly to maintain a 70% duty cycle without increasing base fuel pressure and/or switching to larger injectors.

Just my $0.02.

Please feel free to respond with intelligent answers/comments.

-Shawn

I am not mantaining the 70% duty cycle controversy. I answered to Kooldino, who is the one who started this, that it was what I saw on the computer when we dynoed the car in January of 2003. Then we went with larger injectors and I have no way to see what it really is on stock injectors until I have a chance to look in someone else's car when we install a kit.

We now know that you should go with larger injectors if more than 10 psi are run, but then you also need some type of timing control.

So, for the people running 8 psi, the stock injectors and F10 is good. For the ones who want more than that, should get the larger injectors, E6X and even forged internals.

That is what we are doing to boost it to 20 psi.