I thought that you owned a Protege5.
What protégé do you have and what year is it.
Mazdas haven't used a distributor for a LONG time.
I think my 83' GLC even had electronic ignition?
Alternator? Randomly turning off/no start (Protege5) B3 engine
- Thread starter Roysh
- Start date
I thought that you owned a Protege5.
What protégé do you have and what year is it.
Mazdas haven't used a distributor for a LONG time.
I think my 83' GLC even had electronic ignition?
Hi, so I'm not sure which is the US equivalent car to mine. Apparently the ford laser sold in Australia is almost the same?
Mine is a 2003 hatchback model with a 1.3L SOCH B3 engine fuel injected with the distributor
I replaced the distributor and that didn't work. I think is maybe some kind of short or open circuit, when it doesn't start or after it shuts down the ECU doesn't seem to activate the IAC, EGR solenoid and fuel pump (I guess it doesn't give the signal for spark neither or for the TPS, but those doesn't give any sound so hard to tell without scanner) but voltage does get to them.
I found an unbolted ground, but after cleanning and puting it back it still happens intermittently. Also found some cables in not the best shape but that didn't fixt it.
Still looking for a solution
edit: Also mine doesn't have OBDII, just OBDI so is not easy to get where to scan
Mine is a 2003 hatchback model with a 1.3L SOCH B3 engine fuel injected with the distributor
I replaced the distributor and that didn't work. I think is maybe some kind of short or open circuit, when it doesn't start or after it shuts down the ECU doesn't seem to activate the IAC, EGR solenoid and fuel pump (I guess it doesn't give the signal for spark neither or for the TPS, but those doesn't give any sound so hard to tell without scanner) but voltage does get to them.
I found an unbolted ground, but after cleanning and puting it back it still happens intermittently. Also found some cables in not the best shape but that didn't fixt it.
Still looking for a solution
edit: Also mine doesn't have OBDII, just OBDI so is not easy to get where to scan
Last edited:
Ok, I may have "discovered" what is happening.
Seems like a short in the fuse box is the problem. The car stills stalls randomly but I noticed that sometimes when trying to re-start it a buzz comes from the cooler fan relay but noting from the fan, fiddling around I disconnected my IAC with the key on and the relay started to click and the fan to go on and off. Disconnecting and reconnecting the main and/or fan relay a few times get the car to start again most of the time.
Relays are in good shape so not the cause and I had alreday checked the cables under the fuse box without anything weird to my eye, so probably the insides of the fuse box are where the short happens. I'll see if I can confirm my suspicion somehow tomorrow but I think is time to get a "new" one
Seems like a short in the fuse box is the problem. The car stills stalls randomly but I noticed that sometimes when trying to re-start it a buzz comes from the cooler fan relay but noting from the fan, fiddling around I disconnected my IAC with the key on and the relay started to click and the fan to go on and off. Disconnecting and reconnecting the main and/or fan relay a few times get the car to start again most of the time.
Relays are in good shape so not the cause and I had alreday checked the cables under the fuse box without anything weird to my eye, so probably the insides of the fuse box are where the short happens. I'll see if I can confirm my suspicion somehow tomorrow but I think is time to get a "new" one
Kind of tired of the problem, so haven't used a lot the car. Has a different fuse box, but didn't solve it. Today tried again to see what's the matter, but I'm left with more questions
Car started nice, nothing weird. I let it run for a good time while I was checking if by moving the wiring it will stall but nothing. Decided to check once again grounds and found the neutral safety switch kind of lose, and ended with both cables detaching from it. Connected the battery and it started normally (the car has always started without problems if it isn't in neutral), joined the to cables to see what, and they just lowered the rpms but no stalling. When I was ready to claim victory with a test ride the car stalled once again. What I'm missing? Didn't have spark or fuel
My guesses are that the neutral switch is still a possibility of the failure, or that the ecu is bad, or that maybe the temp sensor is giving bad readings, or still a short/open somewhere.
Car started nice, nothing weird. I let it run for a good time while I was checking if by moving the wiring it will stall but nothing. Decided to check once again grounds and found the neutral safety switch kind of lose, and ended with both cables detaching from it. Connected the battery and it started normally (the car has always started without problems if it isn't in neutral), joined the to cables to see what, and they just lowered the rpms but no stalling. When I was ready to claim victory with a test ride the car stalled once again. What I'm missing? Didn't have spark or fuel
My guesses are that the neutral switch is still a possibility of the failure, or that the ecu is bad, or that maybe the temp sensor is giving bad readings, or still a short/open somewhere.
A little update to keep track of things (and in the remote case someone read this)
Still, have random stalling without any obvious symptoms (also I've an oil leak that needs to be taken off, but with the stalling hard to get it solved now).
Still, have random stalling without any obvious symptoms (also I've an oil leak that needs to be taken off, but with the stalling hard to get it solved now).
This hasn't occurred again, maybe the change of the fuse box did help somewhat...
After reading more about USA Proteges and comparing them to mine, I don't have an EGR per se but I do have a Canister w/ a Canister vent valve solenoid. I think I didn't mention it, but this solenoid was broken. I replaced it a few days ago with the fuel regulator and adjusted the injectors' rail.
So far this is still disconnected, ordered a replacement that should arrive tomorrow. Inspecting again the old wiring the + cable seemed like it was rubbing somewhere. If this doesn't solve my problem I might end up buying the ECU or some scanner first
