BrianFiebig
Member
- :
- 08 SPEED 3
OK, the car is in the shop for the next 10 days to 3 weeks (got backed into in the parking lot at work, caught on camera, guy didnt want to fess up until I started getting beligerent...LONG story) so I'm taking this time to do some research on a few things.
Just picked up an AEM CAI with straightener, looking for a new BPV (had a line on a SSQV, lost it, Forge?) and now Im about ready to get into exhaust. I'll probably do a ED/ebay FMIC combo later, but one step at a time (cant hide the FMIC... powdercoat it red or black...? thermal transmission of powdercoating?).
SO, a few assumptions here:
1. With the straight thru design of the stock exhaust, a CBE is really only for the sound, with nominal gains in performance catagories.
2. The bottle neck in the exhaust is the down pipe.
3. Ergo, given 1. and 2., the way to improve performance across the board while maintaining the sleeper design that Mazda and the Devil intended is to replace the downpipe. This will yield faster turbo spool, more power, a change in exhaust tone (minor consideration) and quite probably better economy.
THE PROBLEM:
I live in one of those areas that requires emissions inspections every 2 years. So I need to make sure Im going to pass my smog tests, on a motor that is fatter then Rosie O'Donnell.
THE QUESTION(s):
Anyone here know what the specifics are for passing a Virginia State Emissions test (not the particle stuff, THAT I can find) but the visual part of the inspection. My understanding is that they actually look under the car, and if they dont see the requisite number of pieces and parts (like the cats) its grounds for failure. WALL OF TEXT TO FOLLOW:
(Taken from the VA DEQ) The program includes gasoline powered vehicles with a model year of less than 25 years prior to January 1 of the current calendar year, with a manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less. The gross vehicle weight rating, which is determined by the manufacturer, is the weight of the vehicle plus the maximum weight the vehicle is designed to carry. In many cases, emissions are tested while the vehicle is driven on a dynamometer at only 15 mph and 25 mph. Most 1996 and newer vehicles will receive a test of the vehicle's on-board diagnostic computer system instead of the regular tailpipe emissions test. Most vehicles will also receive a gas cap pressure test to detect excessive fuel vapor leakage. For all gasoline powered vehicles, a visual smoke inspection, and an inspection of certain emissions control equipment that was originally installed by the manufacturer will be conducted.
SO the bottom line is, who makes a DP/RP/TP that will pass the visual inspection, as in correct number of cats, no CEL issues (just in case they can see that the ECU is being tricked when they plug it in), and at the same time be rid of the bottleneck in the DP. No point in spending money on a DP if it isnt going to do anything, or if im gonna have to eat a big fat ticket and rip the thing off anyway.
Sorry about the novel, but I have some time and want to be able to purchase something while the car is in the shop with the confidance that Im not doing something stupid.
THANKS.
Just picked up an AEM CAI with straightener, looking for a new BPV (had a line on a SSQV, lost it, Forge?) and now Im about ready to get into exhaust. I'll probably do a ED/ebay FMIC combo later, but one step at a time (cant hide the FMIC... powdercoat it red or black...? thermal transmission of powdercoating?).
SO, a few assumptions here:
1. With the straight thru design of the stock exhaust, a CBE is really only for the sound, with nominal gains in performance catagories.
2. The bottle neck in the exhaust is the down pipe.
3. Ergo, given 1. and 2., the way to improve performance across the board while maintaining the sleeper design that Mazda and the Devil intended is to replace the downpipe. This will yield faster turbo spool, more power, a change in exhaust tone (minor consideration) and quite probably better economy.
THE PROBLEM:
I live in one of those areas that requires emissions inspections every 2 years. So I need to make sure Im going to pass my smog tests, on a motor that is fatter then Rosie O'Donnell.
THE QUESTION(s):
Anyone here know what the specifics are for passing a Virginia State Emissions test (not the particle stuff, THAT I can find) but the visual part of the inspection. My understanding is that they actually look under the car, and if they dont see the requisite number of pieces and parts (like the cats) its grounds for failure. WALL OF TEXT TO FOLLOW:
(Taken from the VA DEQ) The program includes gasoline powered vehicles with a model year of less than 25 years prior to January 1 of the current calendar year, with a manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less. The gross vehicle weight rating, which is determined by the manufacturer, is the weight of the vehicle plus the maximum weight the vehicle is designed to carry. In many cases, emissions are tested while the vehicle is driven on a dynamometer at only 15 mph and 25 mph. Most 1996 and newer vehicles will receive a test of the vehicle's on-board diagnostic computer system instead of the regular tailpipe emissions test. Most vehicles will also receive a gas cap pressure test to detect excessive fuel vapor leakage. For all gasoline powered vehicles, a visual smoke inspection, and an inspection of certain emissions control equipment that was originally installed by the manufacturer will be conducted.
SO the bottom line is, who makes a DP/RP/TP that will pass the visual inspection, as in correct number of cats, no CEL issues (just in case they can see that the ECU is being tricked when they plug it in), and at the same time be rid of the bottleneck in the DP. No point in spending money on a DP if it isnt going to do anything, or if im gonna have to eat a big fat ticket and rip the thing off anyway.
Sorry about the novel, but I have some time and want to be able to purchase something while the car is in the shop with the confidance that Im not doing something stupid.
THANKS.
