So this is a comedy of errors... Learn from my mistakes so you don't have to learn from yours... And ALWAYS trust your gut when you know you've done a proper diagnosis.
Benny Hill Theme Intensifies
So I blew the engine in our new family hauler, a 2018 Mazda CX-9.
New engine has to come from Japan. Between labor shortages there and here, there's been a multi month lead time on replacement 2.5L Turbo Skyactiv Engines.
All the rental places are outta cars in the area and the dealer's loaner has to be back by Friday; Warranty isn't trying to cover a rental for a few months.
F' it, To CraigsList/Facebook Marketplace I go for a cheap beater.
A 2003 Mazda 6 Hatchback with 2.3L engine and manual transmission sits in my driveway. Ran and drove Okay on the test drive, so I threw the seller $2g.
Consistent P0340 code, Bad Camshaft angle sensor. Found a precision spacer (1 US Penny) wedged under the sensor. Removal of "spacer" results in No Start. Removal of the sensor entirely results in No Start. This tells me that the sensor is good, its position relative to the reluctor teeth on the cam is the problem. IE this b' has jumped time.
Back of my mind says, "Order a timing chain kit immediately."
I don't order a timing chain kit immediately.
While scanning codes notice that the VIN in the ECU comes back to a 2005 Mazda 6, not a 2003. Edit the VIN using ForScan software, Completely forget to save the old VIN.
(Also note that the gauge cluster has been changed and that the leads of the 100 Amp main fuse are crimped together; I have since replaced the fuse.)
Sensor ohms out good. Wiring between sensor and ECU ohms out good. Confirmed scrapyard grease pen markings on ECU.
Sensor is $20. Back of my mind says, "Nah, you shouldn't buy a sensor; The old sensor is good. As you diagnosed before, this b' has jumped time." What'd I do? I bought the sensor like an idiot anyway.
$20 wasted.
One obscure posting on the internet states that the valve cover could be warped. Cool, That's low hanging fruit. Head to the scrapyard and purchased a plastic valve cover off a 2005 model since maybe there are production differences between it and the aluminum valve cover that's on my early production model... (Gee, sure wish I woulda known the VIN that the donor ECU; Dealership parts diagrams would have shown me year to year changes on parts.)
Replacement valve cover does nothing; Cam Position Sensor still requires precision spacer.
$50 and a day at the scrapyard "wasted." (Not really. I like hanging out at the scrapyard.)
Back of my mind says, "You idiot. This b' has jumped time. Order a timing chain."
I don't order a timing chain, instead intend to reuse the old one.
Attempt to eyeball the timing and note that the intake cam and harmonic balancer are about 10 degrees off kilter. (according to my calibrated eyeball.)
Note that multiple people on the internet have remarked that the camshafts and crank on this type of engine are NOT KEYED to the sprockets and harmonic balancer.
Back of my mind says, "There's probably a special procedure and special tools to set the timing on this engine."
I pay my mind no attention. Adjust and reassemble the engine. I even thought ahead to find my torque wrench and torque the harmonic balancer bolt down; Torque wrench is broken as the ratchet spins in both directions. I probably shoulda warrantied that some years ago when I originally broke it. Decide to hammer the harmonic balancer bolt home with the Ugga Duggas.
Surprisingly the engine runs better, but still throws a P0340 code at high revs.
Another day wasted.
Finally order the timing chain and front main seal like I shoulda done on day 1.
Finally download the procedure for doing a timing chain on this type of vehicle.
Note that the procedure has the following:
Local Dealership had the friction washers and harmonic balancer bolt in stock. (Just one set though. I thought about ordering two in case I decided to be an idiot and put things together without following the procedure.)
Amazon has the https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) on Prime shipping.
That was yesterday.
Continuously hit F5 on the UPS and FedEx websites.
Wrench is in Connecticut.
Timing Chain is in Texas.
I'm in Virginia.
And I'm STILL considering reusing the old timing chain and hammering the old bolt in with the Impact Gun.
Should follow the procedure, shouldn't I?
Benny Hill Theme Intensifies
So I blew the engine in our new family hauler, a 2018 Mazda CX-9.
New engine has to come from Japan. Between labor shortages there and here, there's been a multi month lead time on replacement 2.5L Turbo Skyactiv Engines.
All the rental places are outta cars in the area and the dealer's loaner has to be back by Friday; Warranty isn't trying to cover a rental for a few months.
F' it, To CraigsList/Facebook Marketplace I go for a cheap beater.
A 2003 Mazda 6 Hatchback with 2.3L engine and manual transmission sits in my driveway. Ran and drove Okay on the test drive, so I threw the seller $2g.
Consistent P0340 code, Bad Camshaft angle sensor. Found a precision spacer (1 US Penny) wedged under the sensor. Removal of "spacer" results in No Start. Removal of the sensor entirely results in No Start. This tells me that the sensor is good, its position relative to the reluctor teeth on the cam is the problem. IE this b' has jumped time.
Back of my mind says, "Order a timing chain kit immediately."
I don't order a timing chain kit immediately.
While scanning codes notice that the VIN in the ECU comes back to a 2005 Mazda 6, not a 2003. Edit the VIN using ForScan software, Completely forget to save the old VIN.
(Also note that the gauge cluster has been changed and that the leads of the 100 Amp main fuse are crimped together; I have since replaced the fuse.)
Sensor ohms out good. Wiring between sensor and ECU ohms out good. Confirmed scrapyard grease pen markings on ECU.
Sensor is $20. Back of my mind says, "Nah, you shouldn't buy a sensor; The old sensor is good. As you diagnosed before, this b' has jumped time." What'd I do? I bought the sensor like an idiot anyway.
$20 wasted.
One obscure posting on the internet states that the valve cover could be warped. Cool, That's low hanging fruit. Head to the scrapyard and purchased a plastic valve cover off a 2005 model since maybe there are production differences between it and the aluminum valve cover that's on my early production model... (Gee, sure wish I woulda known the VIN that the donor ECU; Dealership parts diagrams would have shown me year to year changes on parts.)
Replacement valve cover does nothing; Cam Position Sensor still requires precision spacer.
$50 and a day at the scrapyard "wasted." (Not really. I like hanging out at the scrapyard.)
Back of my mind says, "You idiot. This b' has jumped time. Order a timing chain."
I don't order a timing chain, instead intend to reuse the old one.
Attempt to eyeball the timing and note that the intake cam and harmonic balancer are about 10 degrees off kilter. (according to my calibrated eyeball.)
Note that multiple people on the internet have remarked that the camshafts and crank on this type of engine are NOT KEYED to the sprockets and harmonic balancer.
Back of my mind says, "There's probably a special procedure and special tools to set the timing on this engine."
I pay my mind no attention. Adjust and reassemble the engine. I even thought ahead to find my torque wrench and torque the harmonic balancer bolt down; Torque wrench is broken as the ratchet spins in both directions. I probably shoulda warrantied that some years ago when I originally broke it. Decide to hammer the harmonic balancer bolt home with the Ugga Duggas.
Surprisingly the engine runs better, but still throws a P0340 code at high revs.
Another day wasted.
Finally order the timing chain and front main seal like I shoulda done on day 1.
Finally download the procedure for doing a timing chain on this type of vehicle.
Note that the procedure has the following:
- Multiple special service tools for locking the cams and crank in time
- An attached TSB regarding friction washers between the sprockets and cam/crank.
- A note that the harmonic balancer bolt is to NEVER be reused as it's a torque to yield bolt; 75 ft lbs plus 90 degrees.
Local Dealership had the friction washers and harmonic balancer bolt in stock. (Just one set though. I thought about ordering two in case I decided to be an idiot and put things together without following the procedure.)
Amazon has the https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) on Prime shipping.
That was yesterday.
Continuously hit F5 on the UPS and FedEx websites.
Wrench is in Connecticut.
Timing Chain is in Texas.
I'm in Virginia.
And I'm STILL considering reusing the old timing chain and hammering the old bolt in with the Impact Gun.
Should follow the procedure, shouldn't I?
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