A/C doesn't work.

Nascop5

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2002 Mazda Protege5
A/C blows hot air on any setting, so logically I went for a recharge yesterday, found out I was full on refrigerant. Checked all fuses,nothing was wrong, replaced all of them. I tested to see if the compressor was engaging, the pulley definitely spins, but the three smaller circles in the pulley do not, I can move them manually. Tested to see if it would move if directly connected to the battery, still nothing. Any suggestions? Only other thing I can think of is not enough oil in the compressor, or the system is fried... A response is appreciated ASAP, I'm in San Jose and it's looking like its constantly gonna be 100+ here.
 
Pull out your radio and look at the big connector behind the fan switch to see if any of the terminals or.wires are corroded or melted. Very common problem in these cars
 
A/C blows hot air on any setting, so logically I went for a recharge yesterday, found out I was full on refrigerant. Checked all fuses,nothing was wrong, replaced all of them. I tested to see if the compressor was engaging, the pulley definitely spins, but the three smaller circles in the pulley do not, I can move them manually. Tested to see if it would move if directly connected to the battery, still nothing. Any suggestions? Only other thing I can think of is not enough oil in the compressor, or the system is fried... A response is appreciated ASAP, I'm in San Jose and it's looking like its constantly gonna be 100+ here.

If the clutch didn't engage with battery voltage applied to it, you have found the problem.
 
I could see that as two problems, either the compressor clutch itself is broken, or the electrical component that activates it is broken. If it's just the compressor clutch then I can take it off and replace it, if it's the electrical component. That's within the compressor itself, and requires a lot more work to access.
 
I could see that as two problems, either the compressor clutch itself is broken, or the electrical component that activates it is broken. If it's just the compressor clutch then I can take it off and replace it, if it's the electrical component. That's within the compressor itself, and requires a lot more work to access.

If you energized the compressor clutch manually, and it didn't make an audible click, the coil is open. If it did click, but the compressor still doesn't spin, the clutch is worn and will need to be replaced.
 
sorry for the late reply but what do you mean when you say the coil is open? Is that something I can check and replace?
 
sorry for the late reply but what do you mean when you say the coil is open? Is that something I can check and replace?

Open meaning no continuity.

The FSM should have specs for checking it with a multimeter.

If it is bad, I'm not sure that the coil is available, and usually special tools are required to get the clutch apart. Best off replacing the whole compressor or clutch assembly.
 
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